Tiff

Thanks for that Paul. I reconnected the 2 side repeaters on the cycle wings which seems to have given me enough load to work the flasher unit - albeit flashing rather quickly.

As my car is now mainly used on track, I have removed the front headlights/indicators to save on wear/tear etc. BUT the rear indicators have stopped working which I really need on trackdays. I'm useless electrically. What do I have to reconnect to get them to work?

My 4 year old R300 has developed starting problems when it is hot. I get a loud click but nothing else when I press the starter. However if I rock the car in gear and then try again it starts no probem. Have I the "click of death" problem that has been discussed on this forum ad infinitum or is it something else?

Had my R300 MOT'd yesterday OK. I used to have the sensor plugged into the CAT but when I got a quiet Raceco exhaust with CAT bypass I moved it to No 4 Primary. I put the CAT back on for the MOT, with the sensor still in No 4 Primary, and it passed emissions OK. For the record it seems to pop and bang more since I moved the sensor - some folk like that!

If I read the disjointed english correctly on the MOG website, they will only sell you the lightweight brackets if you buy the carbon headlights as well. They don't sell them separately - unlike Fluke.

I fitted a new sender to my R300 about 6 months ago. Since then I've done very few road miles and 4 trackdays. It's now failed - same symptoms as last time - pressure gradually appears to get lower and lower, no response when you rev the engine, and then the needle starts "kicking".

If I took my engine out (R300) I'd insulate the tunnel and footwells with the sheet adhesive backed insulation stuff from Demon Thieves. It gets hot when the weather's warm!

NOW he tells me !! Tried the grease - didn't work - got 2 grease circles on my sandy coloured trousers. Got in trouble from the "rev limiter" indoors.

Has anyone any ideas on how to remove an annoying bit of play between my Momo removeable steering wheel and the boss it clicks into?

"96 plate CSR" ???????????????? *confused* If it was an 06 plate it might have been the motoring journalist Tom Ford heading back from Le Mans. He was lent a new Superlight CSR (orange) to drive there and back (parked up at the club site) and is going to write an article on it for Top Gear Mag. Said he liked it.

In 100 degrees in Texas on the USA tour mine didn't invert - the glass fell out! Luckilly just as I was parking.

I did it in my 2 year old Volvo - empty tank and filled up with petrol - ran for 10 miles before konked out. AA tow, £150 to drain and bleed. I've done 25,000 miles since no bother. The garage that did the job said the damage + cost depeneds on the make of car. Depends on the toughness of the fuel pump running without lubrication and where the pump is if it needs replacing. He said some german models have the fuel pump inside the fuel tank and the car is built around it - mega expense. Mines only cost £150 so far. Our fleet manager has also had cars with problems that appear a long time afterwards. So I don't think there is any hard and fast rule.

Mine (similarly set up) was tested at Croft 2 weeks ago by the circuit and a static test at 4,500rpm gave a reading of 98.5db. I was also tested a year ago by a mate - on drive by on the finishing straight at Croft going flat out at 102db. I haven't had a problem at Oulton Park (tested static) but I can'ttell you what the reading is. My exhaust can is showing some browning which probably means it could do with repacking (3 years old, 14K miles, 14 trackdays).

I've talked to CC Midlands on the subject. There is a new CR500 tyre but the compund is the same. What's changed is the tyre construction underneath the rubber, strengthening the sidewall due to the stresses induced by racing.

Would I be right in thinking that spark plugs, themostsat, and alternator belt are the same as for an MGF?