Asklepios

Nigel, Jackal is correct. So if you test the coil "cold" it may give the correct resistance, though the coil is on the way out Borrowing a coil as a temp substitute should clarify the issue . So Norman`s request for spec., and a comment on your location may prompt a friendly local sevener to donate his coil to your experiment. Good luck.

Machine the flanges true. Cost you £10-15 . Then buy the RK gasket. If you are unconvinced, try a straight face acress the sytem. I bet you will have an eigth of an inch or so out of true.

Peter, A good clean with solvent. Roughen up the area to key for one of the"plastic -metal " type compounds. That will form a good seal if keyed in well enough. If not -re weld.

Charlie P. If you are struggling , and live in the North East, there is no need to travel to Fife. Nigel Bridger of Waldon Engineering has a vast experience in RR set up. Well able to use your kit. The new chap in Aberdeen has a fancy RR and does a lot of the Scooby do boys, and first reportts say he is with it.

Charlie P good RR in Aberdeen. Contact me if need more details.

Sorry to hijack your thread, but does anyone have a cheap source of these ?

Oh Myles , don`t be such a tit !

A10, I suppose "tyre will work best at optimum temperature" , otherwise wouldn`t be optimum. Your point on differential tye pressures cold is interesting. I suppose you could prove your theory by testing the pressures hot, after a race and see that they were the same across an axle. Your interesting post was coy about actual numbers however!

I thought Norman may have chipped in. There was talk months ago on this topic. The concensus was they are well made and in service will perform well. I took to task the assertion that they would "improve performance". I could not find one shred of evidence for this , unless the set you were replacing were damaged (I think this is what Bilbo feels he observed) They certainly look very nice , and value for money is a personal assessment. My own anectdote on leads was that those supplied by Weber when I went to a managed system had a tendancy to cause the system to crash and reset. Not handy when nipping out from a junction. The replacement set looked identical but perform faultlessly. I believe Roger K had the same problem with a batch at the same time. So ignition leads can be very problematic. Whether Red and expensive sorts this ..........well as I say my replacement black one work without fault.

Mine certainly was ,and I do not recall it being an extra.

Hi Dave. If you will accept £40 delivered , it will permit me to send another fiver to the Scottish Rugby Tean appeal fund. Acceptable? Paul

Conorc is correct. Having knackered a Tr Stag gearbox by running the wheels off load(OK did rev it a bit), would counsel against jack up and run.

Jonathon, When the manifold is partially off, suggest remove the system completely. The flanges will not be straight. This is the most common cause of exhaust gaskets blowing. Take to a machine shop who will true this up for £15 or less if they like you. Since trued,I have never had to replace this gasket. Should add that locking the cap head manifold bolts is essential. Used to wire lock ( drill before use),but have found common thread lock seems to survive the heat adequately. The RK copper gasket seems to be the same as others , just bigger.

Never having done this I only offer suggestions for constructive comment. How about 2 pieces of alumn.or mild steel plate under the wheels,with a blob of grease between them? Cheaper still, a bin bag /polly bag with a few drops/WD40 of water inside? Certainly if you have ever slipped a disc sliding on the bl***y thing in winter, you might agree it may have a utility here !

Alan, I changed the upper and lower wishbones to the newer configuration. Previously had the cast single upper with a bolted on front link. I did not fit widetrack as the wheel would have been outside the clamshell wing,and I couldn`t be bothered fixing that. I was aware of a more secure/solidfeeling at the front, especially under track/sprint type braking. Ordinary road use was improved but for that alone I would not spend the money. On my chassis the castor in the middle position was impossibly upright,and I assume the mounting points are different in our age of chassis.Simply spacing the washers to give maximum castor from the start worked well.