Bizzielizzie13

Hi, is anyone else off to the Laon Historique this year? Might be nice to meet-up?

I've fitted the 'Zero Noise' filter & done a good road test. I'm happy to say very pleased with the result, so can recommend! Obtained from 'DT' with Club discount too.

Thanks Andrew, I had seen this too, Starcom went out of business in Jan 2022 so I understand. Looks like the Zero Noise filter it is! One on order now & will report. David

Thanks for link in #7, that looks like it's what I'm after. Not in stock

In reply to Jonathan, I have an R300 with Duratech.

Jonathan The power is taken directly from the battery & runs down the tunnel to the boot where the Starcom is mounted, the earth is in the boot too.

After several years with a Starcom intercom SWMO has decided that there is too much 'noise', this comes & goes with alternator load, lights on/off etc. So my question is, does anyone have any advice experience of what 'noise filter' for the power supply would be worth getting? Thanks David

PM Sent, cheers David.

I'm with some of the others here regarding Northern Spain. We've done the Picos de Europa twice & the Pyrenees all in the Seven going from Portsmouth to Santander. Two of us nine nights each time, all packed into a Seven. Couple of places that were worth it, Santillana del Mar, Fuenta De, Cangas de Onis. On the way to the Pyrenees you could visit Pamplona, we went as far up as Bielsa famous for the Tunnel that goes to France. Carcassonne is a town we had hoped to get to, another time we hope! Enjoy!

Thank you! A great set of photos!

In reply to Blue7's question/s. I fitted the Caterham FIA battery cut-off 'kit' as I had heard that the load imposed by the immobiliser would, as with the Banner cause the battery to go flat over time. It was not an easy job, although help with some info (template etc) from JK certainly did help! Had to do some of this upside down under the dash & in the end I had to remove Speedo & Rev Counter to get access & finding the correct wire for the ignition was not straight forward. It was worth it in the end as it now has a 'proper' cut off for Track-Day use & security. Not to mention that thus far at least, I have not had to charge the battery. I've have had a few bits from 12v Planet for our camper & found them very good, but you do get everything you need in the Caterham kit, extended cables etc etc & would vote for it as the way to go.

I fitted a JWM battery 'Kit' to my R300 Duratec in the middle of last year. All went OK, although as already said the terminals are opposite to the Banner so I had made a new earth lead & fitted an FIA Type isolator. The battery voltage dropped from 13.5 in October (when I took it off the road) down to 13.4 in the early part of April, it has not yet been on charge!

We would like to add our thanks to the team for arranging this years program too!

Just a thought. Would it be worth wiring in a 'Cig Lighter' type socket direct to the battery & then using a plug in USB charger converter? You can then charge the battery with the USB removed & importantly without the trouble of removing the bonnet.

Thanks all for help & links etc. I just now need to find the correct ignition feed from the starter button (I don't have an ignition barrel) Caterham say there 'may be' a loop in the loom near where the switch fits...... Cheers David

I'm fitting a battery master switch to our 2012 R300 Duratec. Could any kind person please 'post' a copy of the relevant page from the build manual & the ignition wiring diagram. It is the detail in positioning the switch & the ignition supply that is my concern. Thanks David.

If you do want to use the correct tool, try the Laser 5170 (Hook & Pin Wrench aka C-Spanner). A quick 'google' will bring up the usual suspects for £70-£80.

Just signed up for Laon Historique, we are camping at the site through Scenic Car Tours. Although they were vague about if any other sevens were going.....

A 'Binx' nut could replace the 'Nyloc' if there is any heat transfer worries? Maybe an oversize hole in the either or both of the brackets to provide more bobbin like movement? Looks a lovely bit of thoughtful engineering though.

Back in the day when I had a competition car, a wise works technician said, 'if you have any doubt, try the float test-if it does-use again'!

I had a touch-up pot that I asked my local SMART repair guy to use to spray a small area. Try a specialist Motor Trade paint supplier, or perhaps a local SMART repair outfit, I would recommend an independent. I'm sure they would supply the correct ratio too, it will go off & not last like a pot from Halfords!

I have a spare set of rims with CR500 I plan to use for tackdays, in the past I have had more wear on the inside of the front tyres during road use. So as they wear quite a bit more (camber is negative of course & some touring on motorways & so on) I have had them turned on the rim to equalise wear for road use. When staring a track days should they be turned back so the deeper tread is on the outside, will the outer wear more on a track day due to the 'enthusiastic' cornering...? I have a standard Duratech R300 (ie not race suspension) with 13'' rims - 6'' Fronts & 8'' Rears. Thanks

Thanks all, I will try various of these methods & see how they work.

At the 60th Event Premier Power were showing some Carbon wings that looked very good indeed, I've not seen Simon's (Meteor) but his service is usually very good too.

The Carbon Front wings on my 7 have now started to fade, particularly after 5 days away with the car staying out all the time in this incredible summer! The car is 2012 & has original front wings. They have lost the depth of the 'blackness' & are turning more 'grey'. Is there a sensible remedy, whether it be the use of compound-flat with wet n dry & polish or......?