Bizzielizzie13

I would echo comment about Perma-Grit Tools, very good indeed for working Carbon & as supplied to F1 teams!

Try Craven & Nicholas in Boston (Lincs) just Google the name will come up. I've had an alloy sump guard repair done by them some years ago, seem to remember it being ok. They did a stainless exhaust repair & some other bits too.

A good idea for a jack is one from an early (first shape) Ford KA or early Fiesta, try E-Bay. These are 'Jaw' type & come with an easily turned fixing bolt that holds it in place. Mine is fixed above the passengers footwell with some rubber protection to stop rubbing on the chassis the jack is bolted into the panel using the correct size rivnut. David

Doug Are these LED bulbs in a standard headlamp or something else? What is your comment of their effectiveness vs standard H4 OE lamps?

I came to this looking for the Cibie Clear Flat Fronted lens where the beam pattern is determined by the reflector & not the lens, this is much more effective. Look at all new cars..... What was sent to me was something slightly different, see opening post, however they are way better than the OE lamps that are 1950s 'Tech' & are well worth the modest cost for the massive improvement.

A trip to the 'Shed' with your LSD to see R&R may not be needed. They 'did' the BMW LSD in the R300 after the Carbon Plates wore out, fitting the Sintered ones the race cars use & the noise is not insignificant (they did warn me mind) clonking & so on at low speeds most particularly. Noise not changed in any way in the last 5,000 miles or so. Have a chat with Phil & ask his guidance.

Ian 1/On the bubble wrap label - CIB9860058 followed by the description & 20126 2/These lamps were a simple swap with the same lip, but they seemed thicker in that area hence the mounting wire clips being tighter to refit. There is no location tab on the lamp so you can rotate to some degree to get the correct aim, once the unit is fitted. I would have no hesitation recommending these, must now look for SM25T's LED bulbs. Although, have to say the ones I'm using are one of those 'more light for no more power' - 'whiter' than normal lamps.

I've been looking to upgrade the standard 5 3/4'' headlamps since the very first time I took my 7 out at night. I looked at any number of conversions/upgrades/replacements, but wanted a sensible cost solution, so no LEDs here! It looked like I could get 7'' lamps but struggled for my size, as it were. Well, I had looked at Demon Tweeks over the months & found a Cibie upgrade with Flat front lens listed, but had never seen them with the side lamp option. A few weeks ago they seemed to offer a flat lens (clear type) with the until now missing side lamp. I called to make sure that the web description was correct & after insisting that the option really was on their site they confirmed that they did indeed offer the flat lens with side light. £70 or so for the pair, fit my existing bulbs & jobs a good un! Well not quite, the lens arrived next day, great service, opened the pack, hummm. An almost flat lens but with the beam pattern on the lens oh & made by Hella, so not all bad. Well I've got them now so better get on & give them a try. Quite simply they are OUTSTANDING a sharp dipped beam cut off with no gaps & very even spread of light, the main beam giving much better penetration & spread of light. All in, a very good value for money upgrade. No issues in doing it apart from the wire clips holding the lamp in are very tight to refit. David

On Saturday 25th @ 08.30 in only 7deg C a black 7 on French plates. At 1450 mtrs up the Alps & in March, respect! Bonne Journee

James Some good advice here, why not come to the next Lincolnshire meeting & talk to the others several of our members have very extensive experience! David

Hummmm, does the 'Floor' here mean the ground the car is on, surely you are unable to 'Corner Weight' unless the car is... on a flat floor?

Could it be that as the shift lights are going mad at the lower RPM it is the 'shift lights' that need to be adjusted.....? Do they have any influence on max RPM?

I also think Mini tyres are a false economy, I've just changed my trailer tyres but only because they were 10 years old & never had a problem, the cost of four was less than a pair on the Seven. I don't think the agro caused by a tyre failure is worth trying to 'save' a few quid.

Thanks all, sounds like I will be fine. I was hoping to do Cadwell as its 'our' circuit & wanted to be right. As to the suggestion of an app, sounds intriguing, is there one?

I have an R300 2.0 Duratec S3 will a standard factory side exit exhaust pass the noise test at the Club Track Days? Will it pass with other organisers? Thanks David

This may be of no help, but my brother in law has a BJ trailer and saw a strange dim light in one of the lockers. It was a box of incandescent bulbs in the circuit to the LED rear lights!!!

I wonder if the New Hood should have New Doors to make it work? In the photo the doors look older.....?

Louis As I remember it the Peltor will need to be turned on/off via the drivers volume control whereas the Starcom system turns on automatically when a headset is connected. This means you will need to have the unit mounted where it can be reached from within the cockpit. I took the power for my intercom directly from the battery through a fuse of course, following good practice as JK advises above. I don't need to change the output now it's set for talk between the two of us, when I connect a music source I can always change its output if required. My thoughts are that you will want the cables to the headsets to come along the seat belts as they do in rally cars, this may determine were you mount the unit? Mounting behind you makes it had to use, but good for cable runs, mounting under the dash not so great for cables. You are welcome to look at my installation if it helps. David

Try looking for a Ford Ka (might also be Escort) 'Jaw' jack, I'm sure loads on e-bay etc. A small jack for a light car, comes with self crank handle & a long bolt/wing nut type fixing that can be screwed into a 'Riv Nut' that you could fix above pass side footwell. I take a couple of the Holts Tyre weld cans, as I don't have a spare & E Bag a must!

The CR500 is still available, if you like them? Try the Birmingham Motor Tyre Repository, they are Avon Motorsport stockists & know what they are about.

For those of us who are on 13s, and are happy with CR500........ Are they still being made, or is it ZZS now? How do the two compare - road only no track use. David

Hi Louis The guy who runs it is an Caterham Race Car Tech - Hyperion. I'm with Roger, several of the Lincs regulars use Willow, including me! David & Liz

Spotted Sunday Evening 7th June South of Boston Lincs on the A16/A17 Roundabout!

Thanks Johnathan & Simon, I've got a new one on it's way, the 'last one' in stock! Tony at South said there have been changes to valving etc and the Damper is Vin specific. So at moment I will only be able to change one anyway, following Simon's guidance best move would be to refurb the displaced unit and then change the other side. If the refurb is only £80 it's less than half new price. I'm with you on component change, if in doubt, carry out a 'float test' and act accordingly! David

Thank you for your comments & advice. Looks like a New Bilstein to minimise down time, then get the old unit 'done' to have a spare or do the other side.