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I have a late 2009 model with std Caterham Stack loom. no changes were necessary

I have fitted them. I seem to remember its a bit of a hunt for the correct connector but its on the loom. You will have to send the dash back to Stack for a reprogramming. It is about 120 quid but that gives you the chance to use the dash to self calibrate the fuel tank sender through the dash and also set the exact rev point at which each shift light comes on. This can be nice to have different settings for the road and track. You can also set the warning light levels for the other sensor inputs rather than use the Caterham ones. mail me if you want to chat on the phone or what the name of the guy at Stack who arranged it. Andy

Thanks Eugene, Items arrived safe and sound thumbs up

Hi, a pair for me (c/w cir clips) please, Andy

Normal driving is 50-70 with the highest I have ever seen on a track day around high 90s

The dry sump installation addendum to the build manual says: "If a stack dash is fitted, the oil temperature sensor on the oil tank should be plugged into the loom. (If the loom is too short an extension loom may be required)."

Hmm. Interesting. I looked at my late 2009 R400 dry sump tank temp sensor wiring. The is a black/yellow, black pair connected to the temp sensor. This cable traces back to the main loom at a branch where the lights also branch. This is NOT a separate sub loom connected back to the wires near the air intake. If I look at the R400 main dash wiring diagram it shows the temp sensor branching off the loom with a label of B 6 / BY 161. If I look at the stack dash loom diagram I see that there is a similar branch labelled B 6 / BY 170. Looking under the plenum I have two pairs of blade connections: Brown / Black, White / Black Black / Yellow, Black Neither are connected - just tied out of the way. I can't see either of these are on the R400 diagrams I seem to remember that the loom changed around that time and the diagram in the build manual was out of date. Perhaps call / email Sean Cummerson at seanc@caterham.co.uk. He was super helpful during my build. Good luck Andy

If you still need help after reading your mail then let me know and I will look and take some pics tomorrow morning.

Geoff I'm sorry to hear the news; its a great loss to the club. You have done an excellent job and I feel fortunate to have experienced many of you track days. I wish you all the best and hope to meet you again before too long Andy

Ah it now makes more sense. I guess I have the progressive springs. I have a metric chassis. The springs have a smaller gap at the top. So they will be the progressive ones. I understand that raising the rear relative to the front will raise the rear roll centre with respect to the front but how does that affect the over/under steer handling?

2009 R400 I will try adding driver to the seat. If I can't get the rake down to 15mm is it better to have higher rake and a low front or a higher front? What are the relative merits? Thx

Chassis rail under rear mount point or front arm and rail under rear arb

Adjustable all round Nothing in the drivers seat.

I have an R400 with std setup - CR500 on 13 in rims, adjustable platform. I am trying to set the lower wishbones parallel to the floor which give approx 70mm under the gearbox protection bar but can not get less than 25 mm of rake. The rear shocks are on the lowest circlip and as low as they will go. What am I doing wrong or is it not possible to get 15mm on 13 in rims? If it is not possible which is better to have a higher front or a larger rake assuming all suspension geometry will be adjusted once the rake change is made? Thanks Andy

Hi. I second John's comment. Check the TPS wiring. I found mine had snapped - symptoms: hunting of idle and possible engine noise. When it was fixed I got more pickup under rapidly changing acceleration and pops from the exhaust after full throttle high rev acceleration and rapid reduction to idle. My repair lasted about a week then it went again. This was repaired and it lasted about another two weeks. I have also experienced very jumpy behaviour above 6000rpm. As though the ignition or fuel was intermittently cutting out. This is reproducible and very annoying. So for me the 'normal' mode of failure is unstable idle throttle and I suspect under fuelling (I also have a noisy engine which could be running lean and also lack of over fuelling - pops from exhaust). Does any one have a permanent fix for the tps wiring failure? I though I took a great deal of care on the initial build and each repair and does not seems to have lasted very long. Are the latest cars still being shipped with the same gauge of cable? Andy

anyone?

My wife has a booking tomorrow at Rockingham to drive one of the cars with the outriggers to simulate lose surfaces, front and rear wheel skids, but due to illness can not attend. The Car is similar to: http://www.trackdays.co.uk/uploads/e9695c6b4f1caca931c3497983f07913.jpg The description of the session is: Using techniques which simulate loss of control you'll learn the skills (and thrills) of driving on ice, aquaplaning and skid avoidance exercises around Rockingham with our friendly and expert instructor. http://www.trackdays.co.uk/driving_experience/rockingham/skid_pan/193/ It may be one for the wife or girlfriend or for those looking to practice some sideways with an instructor and on someone else's car and tyres. Full cost is £99 but would be happy to see it go to a good home for £50. Time is 12:40 tomorrow (Saturday 24 July). I have checked with Rockingham racing school and they have approved a transfer and have provided a transferable voucher. The participant must have a full UK driving licence, weight less than 17 stone and be between 5 foot and 6 foot four. Deadline noon Saturday. Please email me with any questions. Andy

£140 and a lot of pain trying to get the old cable out right back to the stack dash unit to replace the old one. No need though. I jointed mine; it works fine. Simple solder job with some shrink wrap tubing to keep the water out. You may find some spare cable inside the chassis at top of suspension arm to help with the jointing. Andy

I used the Premier guys to provide nose cone, sides, bonnet catches and rear wing guards. I fitted it myself. It requires a very clean car with no dirt whatsoever, a few hours and a lot of patience but every piece I put on became easier. The difference from sticky back plastic is that you apply an alcohol / water solution to everything - your hands, the plastic film and the car and float it into place. As long as everything is wet and no pressure is applied to the film it just moves around. Once in place a spatula is used to push the liquid film from under the plastic film which results in the plastic starting to bind to the car. You have a few minutes to lift and reapply if you discover an air bubble or piece of grit. As stated by others the compound curves are a pain but the film will stretch approx 20% so it requires conviction and time but not hard. Worse case is you destroy a 20 quid part and need to order another. I recommend anyone give it a try. The film is really very thick and strong (developed originally for helicopter blade leading edges) but it does look think on the car and certainly does not spoil the paint finish. I have no affiliation with Premier but I recommend them - the templates fit and the service is excellent. Andy

John, That is the one. Yes the noise from the exhaust is very low. Thank goodness they don't generally monitor drive by noise levels. The exhaust is nothing compared to the noise from the valve gear and drive train. Andy

John, The silencer is the std CC trackday one. 93/94 does sound low but that was at 4500 rpm at Castle Combe. At Cadwell a few weeks ago it registered 98 at 6,500 rpm. Good luck, Andy

My R400D with cat bypass and trackday silencer registered between 93 and 94 at 4,500 rpm today at Castle Combe Andy

Guys, I have a very large box of bits but need some clues on how it all fits together. I have fastened the left and right support bars between the roll bar rear mounting and cross member that the shoulder harnessed off the seat belt fasten to. When I try to fit the centre panel the folds at left and right side that should fit over the support bars I find the centre section is too small / bars fit too much towards the outside of the car. Is there a trick? Do I have to bend the mounting points in some way? As I can't modify the ali plate. Pictures would be very much appreciated thanks Andy

That would be me. YHM.

John I understand from others that the mode of failure you experienced is well known on these COP installations and known to CC. I wonder whether there is a way that the hard edge where the cable enters the coil pack can be supported in some way to prevent future failures. Perhaps with shrink tubing, mastic or similar. I have the same COPs so its probably a matter of time until mine fail. Andy