phil 01
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Everything posted by phil 01
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Where will I find a replacement Aces sureshift momentary button/switch for a K series R300, mine, the leads fell off the button and theres nothing to solder to, I've had a look on the Caterham site but couldn't find it there Thank phil
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Hi Dave If you have any left over I'll take a pair please Regards phil
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My 2004 R300 K Series has a 6 speed box 15in 195/45 wheels LSD how many teeth should there be on the speedo drive gear? The gear I took out had 22 teeth though this looked as if it had been replaced some time in its life, if I over tooth it by one tooth will it under read by about 5% Thank for looking phil
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Hi Boris you have a message Regards phil
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Bob YHM Phil
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Hi Arno if you google SELOC and search their "excellent" technical section you will find what your looking for, it's not that difficult to strip down with the right sized spanners and a vice. Phil
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The answer to my own questions, the windscreen retaining brackets elongated adjustment holes line up with the same on the scutttle as it sit on top, and the adjustment is so you can tweak the scuttle/bonnet/ nosecone gaps accordingly Thanks for all your input phil
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I've recently bought some windscreen retaining brackets from red-line, my the question is what is the correct position for the windscreen as the brackets give you about 20mm adjustment forward and backwards. I don't have any reference points on my new scuttle, so what is the measurement to the center of the first hole position from where it is riveted vertIcally to the bulkhead. I thought I would check here first for the collective wisdom of blatchat, bit i know not many people actually drill there scuttle because it appears not many have the retaining brackets fitted, why are the brackets adjustable? Phil
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Hi 2GBR only just noticed your nosecone for sale is it still available. Message me back Regards phil
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Hi Richard are you just looking for a replacement spring if so send me the dimensions and I'll search for you if I have one you can have it Regards phil
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Hi Richard if you contact Darren Dare (great name) from Graham Goode racing explain your problem to him they maybe able to help I bought 2 new tripode joints from them recently, he couldn't identify the joint so he sent them off to matched up, are yours 21 spline joints? His email darren@grahamgoode.com Regards phil
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Hi old Gimmer, I was hoping to do a little work on the problem over the Christmas but I've worked 6 of the last 7 days on a fire alarm system, fire office inspection is Wednesday 7th and coupled that with a heavy cold. But I will have a look tomorrow, but my feeling is if we keep the same Caterham terminal block I believe we need a relay, probably use a switch wire to power the relay base (coil) Regards phil and happy New Year
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I should have said you have a message, look at the top of the page next to login Phil
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You have mail
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Excellent
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Who removed the post? Does it require a complaint for a post to be removed, what sad bastard made the complaint
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I need some photos of the underside of the rear of an S3 particularly the area around the fuel pipe, brake pipe, and wiring to the right hand side rear wheels area as they emerge from tunnel area. In the words of immortal words of Nicky Chan take lots of photos,I thought I had, but this area of the car is missing. Regards phil
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Try marking up what cables you have ie purple position 1 etc do this with all cables (battery disconnected) and disconnect from the ignition switch, then with your multimeter set to continuity on bleep, when you touch the 2 test lead together the tester bleeps, go between the ignition switch terminals to establish the positions of the key, generally we have a common / normally open, goings closed when you turn the key, in other words between 2 terminals no bleep turn the key to the next position and it bleeps lets just start with this. If you check the wiring diagram for the ignition switch you should see numbers they are the switch positions regards Phil
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I would have thought that it is the fuel pump, if you have the ignition off and you fuel pump is running the ignition switch is wired wrong. You will have to check the terminal positions at the ignition switch against the colour coding good luck Phil
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If you into your local motor factor you can buy a sealey tester that you clip to the battery with a trailing lead and on the hand set probe you can select live or earth, so for example if you suspect faulty earth you press earth side of the probe and apply to the faulty component if the component now works you at least know the reason why it didnt work and can look in the right direction. The probe set is a PP1 Sealey Test Probe £14.00 Amazon or good motor factors phil
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Hello Jonathan yes that's the book I bought my copy from stoneleigh, I think it was about £6.00 3 years ago but Soft cover A4 size. I'm a spark but 12v car electrics throw different fault situations than 230v and 400v. The reason I bought it was to pick small tricks you learn over time though I does seem quite simplistic to me Phil
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Try a book by John Dickens, this will really help Phil
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Unknown if this has been requested but can we have tech talk in date order, scrub the number of posts by various person not at all relevant when searching for a technical answer, god knows why you tried fix something that wasn't broken, but you managed it. I'm sure a consensus will agree that techtalk should have been left untouched except for embedding the photos posted of which most are now lost
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R300, what are the mechanic of this switch, is it a warning switch that is user operated i.e you switch to a test position, if illuminates you have low level brake fluid. The switch will retract to the off position the light goes out ? If the switch is flickering on probably some form of short to earth. You can test for voltage to earth if you disconnect the signal cable from the switch Regards phil
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Good morning Im currently unable to open links to photos in threads,is this not supported using a iPad also while typing I don't have a cursor showing Phil