Pierre Gillet

Humm Richard, hopefully you are contemplating a RIF design for a carbon rear diffuser

Thanks regin, I shall not waste my time...

Anyone tried using a 2 wheel-trailor with a tilting floor to get a flat floor ?

I would agree with you Andy : it vould bring some protection to the fuel tank and rear tubes. Much prefer the Rêverie one though that I would like even shorter. Pierre

That would be good as several Caterham owners seem interested on the Autoroule forum if price was lower (as you know the French are less wealthy than the Brits ) here

Some headlamps, but the H4 halogen bulbs are still there... here Pierre

Thanks Anthony for the info. Have you also inserted a LED race rain light in it ? You are right it does really tidy very well the underside of the car. Any piccies of your car ? I wonder if RIF process would be appropriate to make a diffuser at a lower price Pierre

Thank you so much Peter. I found somewhere this one here Looks terrific really. Bit expensive though ☹️ Pierre

I am looking for infos and additional photos Re the rear diffuser made by Rêverie here Is it still possible to jack the rear of the car without disassembling the diffuser from the car ? Is there a risk that the side 'wings' hit the ground when the rear suspension is compressed on bad roads or strong acceleration? Cheers, Pierre

Surprinsigly enough the LEDs on my car can be seen very satisfactorily from the side. At least as well as those of the multi-million R&D budget modern cars The designers of the caravan light cluster must have been in advance for their time

Mille excuses, mon cher 😳 Hope I have not been too rude with regard to the British pride One can see the difference LEDs (up) Vs incandescent bulbs (down) here PS: For those interested but reluctent to do the job as I was, JeanEd would be ready to supply the four boards equipped with LEDS and resistors. In fact, I understand from what he told me that he would welcome a bulk buy. Pierre Edited by - Pierre Gillet on 5 Nov 2006 17:37:07

I have been rather surprised to find that the straightforward conversion of the caravan lights made for me by JeanEd into LEDs is very satisfactory : it is not anymore the look of a kind of a candle floating on water in a glass , but an even distribution of light into the full volume. The LEDs by themselves do not appear to be brighter than the original lamps, but rather the light is better distributed on a larger surface if you understand what I mean 😳.They keep their brightness even if you are not just in front of them, better than those on a Golf VW . The brake stops are less powerful than the race rain light (DT) I am using as a third stop light. With regard to reliability, no problem so far. I just spread some silicon grease on the back of the boards, but some thermal glue could have been used. The boards are mounted on bushes made of a sandwich of silicon and 2 ali plates (my friend JeanEd used plain wood but I wanted some dumping effect and did not care for the Morgan look ). Three holes are drilled at the botton of the caravan light to drain the water if any). I am not sure either that they are legal in France...but the E mark is still there on the caravan light Edited by - Pierre Gillet on 5 Nov 2006 11:16:14

Thanks Ivan. I will think about it. I am a little bit reluctant with the use of LEDs for dash lights since I had painful eyes for a day or two after looking at the front indicators LEDs without the plaltic caps and just in front of them ... Regards, Pierre

Yes. I would think that 10 W is probably the max power of the 4 ledified indicators + dash light + buzzer. So even under only 12 V it would be 0,83 A. Sightly O/T, would it be interesting according to you to turn the dash light into a LED one ? Pierre

It is certainly a modification you would want to do to your own Caterham, Ivan, if your turn it to LEDs Oh yes, I have also replaced the 10 A flasher unit fuse by a 2 A one. Am I right ? Regards Pierre

Yes Ivan, it does work *thumbup* *idea* Congratulations and thank you very much. This morning the postman brought a letter from England (very nice stamp). Enclosed was a wiring diagram of the mods to be made to the old circuit (also enclosed) of the indicators dash light. And, even better, a module including two diodes wired to the 3 connectors all professionnaly conditioned in heat shrinkable duct. I just had to connect the module to the two former wires of the dash light and to the dash light, and connect the dash light to the instrument earth point. I added a small buzzer in parallel to the dash light since the LED flasher unit is silent ! Now I can use the 4 LEDs indicators normally: when I flash the indicators of one side the other side does not flash anymore, and there is a small buzz. Also enclosed were several 'spare parts' : diodes, connectors etc. Ivan, I am very grateful, you are a great man *thumbup* Cheers, Pierre Edited by - Pierre Gillet on 17 Oct 2006 18:01:30

A problem obviously Eccles. Another mail has been sent. Many, many thanks Cheers, Pierre Edited by - Pierre Gillet on 12 Oct 2006 11:46:34

Ivan, YHM 😬 Pierre Edited by - Pierre Gillet on 9 Oct 2006 14:50:40

Thank you very much Eccles Your plan sounds very good to me . However the dash light has only 2 wires and it seems that you are referring to three wires: earth and 2 wires. I will have to find these diodes. Anyone knows where I can buy them with a reasonable minimum order amount ? Cheers, Pierre Edited by - Pierre Gillet on 9 Oct 2006 08:53:18

Thank you both. I just tried Eccles suggestion and it worked. My plan is to use for the dashboard indicator light a earth path different from the one of the indicator switch. Am I right ? Cheers, Pierre

I just completed the ledification of the rear and front lights of my Seven. I did not use the flasher unit displayed here but used a special LED flasher unit sold by Ultraleds. My problem is that when I turn on e.g.the right indicators, the left ones also blink, weakly though. I checked carefully all the earthing with no joy. Could it be that the indicators right and left sides are in some way connected through the hazard flashing rocker, and that the problem happens only because of the fact that the Ohm value of LEDs are close to zero ? A way to tackle the problem is to add two resistors in parallel with the front indicators (4 Ohm/4 W) but this really not a sexy solution. Chris W, in the past you solved another problem I had related with the fog light that I wanted to use also as a brake light. You recommended adding a diode somewhere and it worked ... Pierre Edited by - Pierre Gillet on 17 Oct 2006 18:36:26

And the black wire of the loom goes to the earth at the 3 way brake union bolt at the front of the car. Pierre

Would some silicon grease at the back of the circuit help for tropicalisation ? Pierre

Please,can somebody tell me precisely where I should look for the rear earth point , if any ? Car is 1997 K series. Cheers, Pierre Pierre

Angus & Tessa, many thanks. Lazer Brain, many thanks, and no I have done nothing except some silicone in the wing hole. I plan to use some 'thermo glue' at the back of the circuits. I did not do it first hand because i wanted to be sure that everything works OK since glue would prevent any soldering re-work. Simon, mines do not weigh that much since the rubber thingies have been replaced by ali ones. The circuits are poped on bushes : sandwiches of 2 ali plates and silicone, so not wood blocks as on the web site. I was tempted by the Kumschick look, but would have had to replace the wings because of the existing larges holes (the Kumschick lights are lower down the wing). Pierre Edited by - Pierre Gillet on 29 Sep 2006 14:35:27