SouthernBanana

Using a hole saw, I (Gary May) cut a neat 25mm hole in the side skin in the driver's footwell beside the gearbox which gives very easy access to the fill plug. The hole is easily 'filled' with a rubber grommet.

£50 the lot. Any interest?

I have the following tyres for sale. All are borderline road legal, i.e. on or around the wear bar level, although none are below this level. I'm guessing this means that all have >2mm tread left. All are 'S' (soft) compound. Tyres are not 'blued' or severely grained at all. 2 x 185/60 R13 2 x 215/50 R13 Great for trackdays. £70 the lot, or offers? Buyer collects from St. Albans area, Herts. Fergus 0777 562 7779

shifting down a couple of ratios on a seq box is no problem at all. I'm not sure what all the fuss is about. As has been mentioned, this is no different from a bike. A couple of good blips and declutches 'blips and dips' (say 1-2 seconds) and you're away! 😬 If the gap doesn't allow a 1-2 second 'hesitation' then I'd suggest you may possibly wish to reconsider your overtaking strategy!!!!

Yup, they're not the strongest of boxes, esp under full load!

Also, I've found that with a sequential box (sadev box in a clio), gearbox oil changes are needed more frequently, as the selector can sometimes get clogged with fine silt like matter (i.e. oil and worn gearbox 'swarf'). As Peter C has said, the change does need to be very firm to ensure engagement. Although you can go straight down the box without using the clutch, I find a slight 'dip 'n' blip' helps takes some strain off the driveline. It does give massively improved acceleration, esp if flat shifting is possible. Great fun to drive as well. As per Danny's comment, I don't think it detracts from the driving experience, but personally, it allows me to drive harder, as I'm not worried about possibly mis-shifting (as per a few hairy moments at the Ring in my SLR!) 😬

CC are confused... They seem to get confused on several engineering principles these days. I recently received some duff info on a DS pump, so sought the information and bought the pump from the manufacturer instead. I think the parts dept should stick to answering the phone and posting things, rather than giving out factually incorrect advice....

Kevin Great. Thanks for that. My dad used to build chassis with Alan Staniforth in the 60's!! terrapins/monopins, etc!! I'll take a look in the 'source book'. regards PS RJ - I may take you up on your kind offer to ensure the 'approximate' method above is accurate as per my implementation!! Edited by - SouthernBanana on 10 Nov 2006 19:26:22

Kevin Thanks for the reply. Please could you post (or send me) further details on the method you're outlining? cheers

As I understand it some members have access to (or own) corner weight scales? If I were to make a donation to either them or NTL, would it be possible to have use of these for a weekend over the winter? I am looking to setup my Clio racecar. kind regards.

I've got a (lovely pair of coconuts) SLR cage, and have the MOG half doors fitted. These are a permanent fitment, although needed trimming to fit round some of the mounting points for the cage. I suspect you *may* have problems with caterham half doors. Also, the tonneau fits OK over the top of the cockpit, but I find that the half doors are such a tight fit against one of the uprights on the cage, that the tonneau has to be zip tied in place for trailering, etc

It's not purely the finish I'm after, but also the ability to inspect parts that are under a lot of stress. Plastic coating would mask any hairline cracks in welds, etc

What's the consensus here? My concern is that powder coating results in a slightly flexible finish (i.e. plasticised) and could hide any hairline cracks in suspension components, e.g. wishbones. Race car components are not powder coated for this reason. Any thoughts?

sticky IACV?

After R&R rebuilt my 6sp box (for the 2nd time) this year, they recommended Comma oil (which is now using a revised specification)