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Pierre Gillet

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Everything posted by Pierre Gillet

  1. 😬 😬 😬 Heu... kidding me obviously Edited by - Pierre Gillet on 17 Feb 2006 13:47:47
  2. Anybody tried on a S3 chassis these carbon moustaches part of the CSR aerodynamic package ? Pierre
  3. RIF And the 3 Racetech mirrors are perfect too ! Pierre
  4. Norman, just for the records, you are making reference to the Fay-de-Bretagne track don't you ? Humm did Fanch make you taste some of this strange liquor the Bretons call Chouchen Cheers, Pierre
  5. Thanks Norman. I am sure that Fanch is reading you. He must be delighted. Pierre
  6. My mate Fanch from Brittany is the proud owner of a Caterham Sprint 1990 -normal track - and would like to get the specifications of its rear and front suspension springs, namely: -rates (pounds) -inside and outside diameters of the loops, -spring wire diameters, -lengths under no load. Your help would be very much appreciated as Fanch is so far away from civilization Cheers, Pierre Edited by - pierre gillet on 28 Jan 2006 16:15:27
  7. Thanks Elie. The culprit was this brown wire/terminal on the output of the alternator Pierre
  8. Yes Norman, I did squeeze the 4 jaws. One of then though broke ... so I decided to solder the wire and the terminal. The LHD Sevens do not have the problem of heat since the alternator is on the left handside. I installed the race Brise starter one year ago and I am very satisfied. Pierre
  9. Job done following Norman's procedure After cleaning and soldering of the terminal on the big brown wire. Engine running @ 1200 rpm 14,10 V (instead of 13,40 V) between + and - of the battery 14,50 V (instead of 14,18 V) between - of the battery and + of the alternator) . Cheers and many thanks guys Pierre
  10. OK, problem tackled I have disconnected the battery and then connected it again. Then 5 plips and the red led start flashing Thank you Mike and Charlie. Cheers, Pierre
  11. Thanks Norman *thumbup*I did what you recommended and found a brown lead oxydized and half broken Paul, thanks for the feedback. Have already you found any alternative ? Is it possible to get a suitable alternator from CC and at what price ? Cheers, Pierre Edited by - Pierre Gillet on 17 Jan 2006 12:57:44
  12. Humm, 12,4 Volts with the headlights on
  13. OK, I am a complete nufty in these alternator matters I find 7 Volts @ 1200 rpm between the two bolts under the black plastic caps here Any meaning ? Also after removing the U type circlips on the big rectangular plug, I cannot take this plug out. Must I use brute force ? Cheers, Pierre
  14. Yesterday the engine of my 1997 1.6 K SS stopped while blatting on a D road with dim lights. The Odyssee gel battery showed only 8 V as the alternator (1997) was not abble to cope with the lights and heating fan . After a full reload of the battery , the engine can be started normally. However, if I want to put the immobiliser on, I can hear a 'click', but the red led does not start flashing and then I can then hear a second 'click'. The engine can be started again showing that the immobiliser cannot be turned on. I wonder if somebody already had this kind of problem. Pierre
  15. Thanks Arnie and Norman Norman, YHM Cheers, Pierre
  16. Merci Paul http://www.startermotors-alternators.com/Motorsport-Alternators.htm Pierre Edited by - Pierre Gillet on 15 Jan 2006 19:04:02
  17. Well the alternator of my LHD 1997 1.6 K is out of order. I am contemplating ordering one of these Brise alternators proposed by Demon Tweeks. Should I order a 40 Amp, a 55 Amp or a 70 Amp ? A Denso or a Mitsu ? And will the existing mounting bracket fit with the new alternator The car is LHD and the alternator is on the right handside. Should I order a larger pulley and what diameter, offset, grooves And finally, given the above issues , would I be better off ordering it from CC ? Cheers, Pierre
  18. Rob, I am on the market for the normal suspension wide track. Having read that FS are using aerofoil tubes for their pushrod upgrade, I am wondering if they also do the normal wide track in aerofoil tubes. Cheers,
  19. Yeah, but it is supposed to look good By the way, I am looking for some piccies of a aerofoiled wide track to verify by myself. Nick, do FS make a normal aerofoiled wide track ?
  20. I am contemplating fitting on my 1997 1.6 K SS with FreeStyle dampers, Fast Road springs, adjustable FS roll bar, anthracite 13" wheels (6" and 8") and 048Rs M (185/60 and 205/60), a wide track, if it would be worth it given that I am using the car mainly on roads. Oh, and I like the look of the aerofoil R500 one I would be interested in your advices. Cheers, Edited by - pierre gillet on 7 Jan 2006 08:50:47
  21. What about front suspension failures ? (except from front shocker, lower mounting bolt). Pierre
  22. Thanks Colin You described very well the issue of solders which was not so clear to me until you did. Is the Brise starter also prone to this solder disease ? Pierre
  23. Thanks for the tip Arnie. I will use 32A min. rated cable when I do it. For the moment I just sprayed some freon on the MFRU relay contacts but I am concerned it might not be enough, so that I would probably go the additional relay route if the infamous click came back.
  24. Thanks Arnie. I hope though that the click I had last week was due to some pitting of the MFRU starter relay contacts and not to my Brise starter Pierre
  25. Job done. I opened the MFRU with a cutter. Seemed to be silicon-sealed. Everything was clean in it. I sprayed some Loctite freon on the contacts of the 4 relays in the hope of de-oxydizing the contacts if needed. I then used some silicon to seal the cover back. Just have to wait till the next click and I will then add a relay. Car in 1.6 K 1997 and MFRU is the old type as per Angus site. Ref number is YMB 100 22-F. I wonder if it still available at Rover dealers Pierre Edited by - Pierre Gillet on 15 Dec 2005 11:57:43
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