peter clarke
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Everything posted by peter clarke
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These seats are pretty poor design, mine are 13 years old and just rebuilt the drivers one. To stop the HR rattling......best way is to yake the cover off the seat, cut off the nasty little wire ties which secure the even nastier plastic back, then pull off the cover. Then you need a new sprung pin or simply use a cut piece of steel tubing and make to fit. Check that the plastic back is still in one piece and attached properly on reassembly. Or reinforce it with a piece of 5 ply across the back jamed infront of the verticle tubes. This also gives some lumbar support and is much more comfortable. PJ
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Living in Belgium tyres are not cheap, at least 21's or 888 (which I now use and prefer). So I order from Camskill in the UK and have them fitted locally. Total price was about 15% cheaper. Delivery was surprisingly cheap and quick. Peter PJ
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Very interesting topic. Have lived with S types for along time and after a while put a piece of 7 mm ply wood (32cm by 8cm) at the back of the seat, inbetween the horrible plastic back and the upright metal bars of the frame. Instant back support and it is adjustable, just slide it up and down to get best position. You do not have to remove the seats, the sheet can be put in sat an angle and rotated. Cheap simple and very effective. Now only go to the oesteopath when I have a bad fall from my horse when out ridind for a few days! Peter PJ
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having used 170 to 250 fronts and 130 to 170 rears (and the caterham 3 stage rears) the 225 /140 I find is the best for my requirements. Normally run 18 clicks from full hard on local roads and harder at other times as required PJ
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Have run Nitrons for a few years, one of my best upgrades even though mainly for road use. Switched from 250 and 150 Nitron springs to 225 and 140 Eibach last year and although it sounds like a minor change it is noticable over the rough roads here. Bought and collected direct from Nitron after detailed discussions with them. The low rate rear Eibach springs were made especially for them, not avaialable direct from Eibach. PJ
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Have a look at SPA design, have their convex mirrors for a couple of years, excellent view. PJ
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1 bar 14.7 psi
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Sorry, cannot help on that. I would always go for a 4-2-1 unless track only, gives alot more torque. If I was in the UK would have one built. PJ
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Interesting question. My LHD, 1600 K 1997 had "swiss" exhaust, horrible short 4 into 1 and a couple of silencers including the one across the rear that always got hit underneath. Think the short headers and the 1 pipe were standard to first box. In 2000 wanted to switch to decent 4-2-1 and used the R400 system from that time which Caterham said would fit LHD and it did and cleared the starter motor nicely. It has the design that you can use the cat in place of the connecting 4-2-1-pipe. Used a Techcraft repackable silencer which is still going fine with one repack. With this system torque between 300 and 5000 rpm increase by approx 20%. PJ
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Took me approx 1 hour last year, switched to carbon ones. Did not remove wings or wheels. Just drill out rivets, take of the protectors, clean it up very well before putting new ones on. I also used new rubber surround to make a nice job.
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Went the same route apart from using van Kronenburg management system with wide band as I live in Benelux and they set it up for me. Approx 180 bhp and 135 torque. Great pulling power with the 4-2-1 exhaust from 2000 rpm. Would recommend anyone to go thru Dave, friendly, realistic and very professional at realistic prices. PJ
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Would like to know the outcome of this as am tempted to go for this setup so I dont have to change from 4-2-1 each year to putting the cat back in the "2" bit for the MOT test equivilent in Belgium. Not a big issue to change but......
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1600 K (approx 180 bhp) with Nitrons, 225 front and 140 lb rear springs, also used these days on road and touring. 13" wheels 185 and 205 with 888. Settled on 13mm orange front arb with wide track and rear arb on first notch, rake 16mm. PJ
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My 1600 supersport is 12 years old and 40,000km. As the car was in excellent condition and had nitrons, wide track, PRRT, LSD ets then no point in changing it. Whilst engine is out modify the head, I had Dave do a large valve job, and with TB and 285 cams now does 180 bhp and good torque with the 4-2-1 exhaust. Even if budget is limited now you can add cams and TB later but do the head now and forged pistons a must if you intend to really modify. Just take Daves advice PJ
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Interesting, have a R400 with removable cat exhaust and alot of clearance
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Have had a Brise Axial for almost 3 years and no issue....so far! No heat shield, 180 bhp k series. PJ
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Thanks, Elie will make a note of the date! PJ
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Elie Is that Dam Racing in Hoeselt? Thinking of Cat in the silencer so can still use 4-2-1 Peter PJ
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Assuming that engine is set up properly the exhaust is key as Dave says. On my 1600 use a R400 exhaust which has the removeable cat. With cat in place (for mot) top end is only a few bhp down but power/torque drops in the 3-5000 area. Replace the cat with the pipe to make it a 4-2-1 and the improvement from as low as 2000 is very significant. Engine is with throttle bodies, Daves gas flowed head with large valves, verniers, 285 cams, forged pistons etc and light weight fly wheel and 6 speed etc.
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Hi Will you have lots of input now! Have had 6 speed from start as drove a 5 speed and found it very disappointing on the 1600. Have 13" wheels and 3.62 lsd diff is good combination. Use Apollo, for mainly road I do not beleive you need dry sump. Do almost all of the work myself so giving you a price is difficult, all I can say is that Dave was extremely helpful, very fair in price and he also manageged to use some parts from the old head on the new one. I already had van Kroenenburg wide band ECU and throttle bodies so no extra costs. Peter PJ
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Will after a partial blow up of my 1600 I had Dave modify a new head for me and also put in forged pistons. Could have gone for 1800 but as he had forged pistons and rods for 1600 decided to stay will 1600; it also revs like crazy. As have wide track, nitrons, 6 speed LSD etc did not want to sell car. Results are a good 180 bhp and with 4-2-1 exhaust almost 140 torque, and very tractable. 5000 miles on and very pleased I did it. Lso changed to pprt for cooling and this is a great addition. Peter PJ
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Totally agree with Johnty. Now running 1.6K with forged pistons, large valve and ported DVA head, verniers, 4-2-1 exhaust for good torque, throttle bodies etc. If you don't use verniers and a programmable ECU you waste money (using van Kronenburg ecu unit as live in Belgium). 180bhp at 7500 and almost 140 torque, emmisions below 0.2 and starts first time. PJ
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I earth the water temperature, oil pressure, and fuel gauge at same spot and the speedo and tacho together at another location. Yes Tony is right, earthing on a 7 is critical, initially had issues with my Kronenburg control system which is in 3 units, wideband Lamba sensor controller, ignition driver and main ECU until we earthed all three an same spot on chassis. For last 2 years no issue. PJ
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On recollection set the 0 point with minimun petrol in tank, then added 5 liters for first click then went down to the petrol station and added in 5 liter additions and clicked in each time for the next points; ignition stayed on all the time. With the large tank did the same and adjusted it later so had a good 5 liter reserve and 1/2 full was really 1/2 full. Had already 4 SPA clock (not digital) dials and had put in a distribution block for these so simply connected to same. No issue on putting on lights etc so no issues with voltage drop. Much modified 1997 1.6K, fuel gauge went in approx 2 years ago.
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You do not need to empty tank, just run car to normal low and set for zero so you have a reserve and set up as per instructions by SPA. Having just installed a 47 litre tank (in a S3) started empty and set up as per instructions and modified settings a couple of times for acuracy. Use full set of SPA insruments, expensive but excellent. Large tank and over 400km between refils is a great asset. PJ
