peter clarke

When I upgraded my 1600 for the second time it was time to fit forged pistons so it could rev and not explode! At this point I could have gone to the 1800 as well but stayed with the 1600 for a few reasons. Dave, DVA, had a set of forged pistons and modified rods for a 1600 at a very fair price, I like the quick high revs on the 1600 compared to the 1800, it would cost me less and involve less work. So with Daves fully ported head, large valve, 285 cams and the usual mods I got near enough 180hp and not far off 140 torque (a good 4-2-1 exhaust make a huge difference on this figue and spread of torque) So I could have had a few more bhp and torque but wit the 6 speed box, light flywheel, 13" wheels it goes pretty well. But then, as said, it depends what you want to use it for. Peter

Hi Elie, Thanks for the invite but my wife is coming back from the USA and San Juan, Puerto Rico, so I will be collecting her from the airport. Amazing where business can take you, but there are several pharmacuitacal plants there and as she works for J & J, or Janssen as we know it, so........! Thanks M25, snow it is snot on Saturday, but the snow maybe, but definitely bubbles on Sunday. Hope to make it at a latter date Peter

Should use a cat in Belgium. When in place the lambs boss is in the conical part just before the cat so it response to all 4 cylinders. A simple drill a hole and weld a boss.

photos sent

Reluctant sale of my 1997 ruby red/silver stripe 40th aniversary 1600 K series, owned from new, LHD, Belgium registered, kept in heated garage. Major refurbish in 2007 as follows, 14000km since then. Engine: DVA large valve ported head, forged pistons, 285H cams, t/b's, 4,2,1 exhaust plus cat, light flywheel,PRRT,etc,etc.Approx 180 bhp. Brise starter,dry battery, quiet induction. Apollo oil tank. Van Kroenenburg (Eindhoven), engine management system. 6 speed box, Quaife LSD. Lastest DeDion tube. Wide track, adjustable Nitron dampers with adjustable platforms, Eibach springs,13 inch wheels, large Alcon front brakes. Full set SPA analogue instruments, change lights etc. leather interior. Full weather equipment plus half hood. Cibe Oscar headlights, day time running lights, high level rear brake light. Special 47 litter fuel tank. Chassis Dinitroled from new. Black pack, various carbon items. Many other items. Not raced. Passed technical control last month as it usually does. Euro 25000, consider sensible offers.

Thanks a lot Mankee, just the kind of practical information I was after. Wait to see if any more replies but maybe I will stick with what I have, prices of the nice repack-able units are, to say the least, horribly expensive, especially if it does not bring much.

On my 180 bhp K series use a 4-2-1 system with a 70 cm longTechcraft 6" exhaust with Acoustafil ( or a 4 to cat to Caterham 6" for the yearly test). They sound different but both loud. Have not checked the noise level but want a quieter exhaust. Looking at Raceco and Powerspeed. Those of you who have swapped from 6" to 7", have you found a significant reduction, say 4-5db or is it only 1-2 db?? Before I invest would like to know if it is worth it!

Be very interested to know when you have solved other problems. My induction is very quiet as air feeds in thru the side of car below bonnet and thru ReVerie low noise piping to large filter and then to there carbon fiber inlet box which houses 90 mm trumpets

Yes, remap. Have used 4-1 and 4-2-1 on my 1600 K, only 180 horses, and needed remapping. I switched for more low down torque for road use,which it gave. Did the Raceco give a significant reduction in exhaust? I ask as I am considering buying one to replace the 6" Techcraft one I have.

Web site does not seem to work, is it correct?

Have had clam shells since new,1997, no extra mid support, just the bolts and sealant to the front headlight mount, wide track with 13" wheels(you can adjust the clams in width to a degree), they just cover the wheels. No issues.

Agree with the above, having learnt the hard way. Get head checked for hardness and porosity before starting and do all the interals properly; porting, skiming, springs, bearings, rods, liner protrusion etc.Then all is ready for the external goodies whenever money and time is available. My 1600 ended up this way and develops around 175+ with very good torque, so very drivable.

Gary, let us know your findings please. Chris, like all things do it right. Springs are relatively cheap and help but as you say it does not resolve the problem. In the passed, like 6-7 years ago, it was difficult to find good input on this subject. thanks for your input and your article. Peter

Simon, Chris great information, always felt that the dampers are trying to do the work of the springs. That is why I keep reducing the spring rates and getting better but not right!! If that makes sense.

Talk to Simon. I had Bilsteins but very hard and have had various springs. Next time I go to the UK, which is not so often now, will have the Nitrons revalved.

I have standard Nitrons, well 7 years old so original valving. S3 13" wheels 225+ 150 helpers front wide track and CATERHAM progressive on rear. For road use 16/17 clicks from hard on front and 17/18 on rear. With the previous 225 and 130 set up used 17 on front and 18 on rear but still not the best for road. Really need to get them revalved but with 17 psi on the 888's the present set up is pretty good for the local roads.

Brand new r888 185x60x13 7.5kg. Sorry the 205's are now on the car,, rears wear so much faster. Part worn yoko 21r. 205/60/13 8.6kg

Mine is a road only car and am using dual coils on the front and progressive on the rear. Over the time have played with several set ups and it is now 225ld plus 3inch long 150lb on front(wide track) and standard Caterham progressive on the rear. Nitrons are what I guess are "standard" set up as around 8 years old. On front the 150 lb are not quite coil bound when car is stationary and seems to help the porpoise effect and can run between 15 and 18 clicks from hard depending what I want and how I feel on the day, normally 16 or 17. Find the rear a bigger issue, the uprated Caterham progressive too hard for just road use and 140lb similar. My test is over the same 3 "sleeping policeman", how fast over these and still damping properly, and a cobbled road down to a local farm. Bit crude maybe but fairly effective. I know I should re valve but shipping to Simon in the UK is a little expensive, maybe on my next visit there.

Interesting information on the primer Rob, I know they do this on rare occasions. I used normal grey and it was ok, but then a different formulation, a mix of 10 ingredients.

Also have this, a 1997 one and was told it was a Renault or Peugeot colour! Simple solution was to go to local paint suppliers, they brought out their mobile colour testing unit and during a long and interesting chat about the car and paints they took several readings from various places and made me up quarter of a litre. Very close match, cannot see the difference. It does depend how you apply it and needs clear lacquer of course. They had 2 component aerosols for this which was rathe handy, although they are one time use of course, but saves the hassle of setting up the spray gun. Had the option of water or solvent base. Keep a small can and the formulae of course, but this is reference to their pigments so not of use elsewhere.

Shows the different hand brakes. I found one good twist of the rubber cover loosened it and could pull it off. Carbon unit slid on, gave it a good push and perfectly in place. Nip up the Allen stud and that was it. Standard size from Carsten; my handbrake dia 19.1-19.4mm and under length 104 mm

Photo sent to you Tom

Just received mine from Carsten. Fits perfectly and very nicely finished. Nice little Xmas present.

OK, it did say little things! Took a while to remember but mirrors reminded me of one. Attached length of 2cm right angle aluminium to inside of side screens (about 25cm long) using the mirror bolt holes plus one more so rigidity improved and it sandwiches itself to the scuttle trim when side screen closed so no more mirror vibrations even at 160kph. Another one was usually have the passenger torneau on but it would come undone particularly at the rear at speed so got rid of the standard press stud fasteners on the centre front and rear and replaced them with Tenax centre lift fastener. Problem solved

How do you keep this short???? 1600 K road use only now. Suspension :15 to 13 inch wheels plus Nitrons with progressive rears and 225 with 150 lb/in tenders on front plus r888 tyres, prefer them to 021's. Engine: Daves large port head plus all the usual goodies I did myself and van Kroenenburg ECU and RR set up to 180 ish BHP with very good torque from 4-2-1 exhaust. Full set of adjustable SPA analogue gauges. Also SPA convex mirrors. 47 litre tank, so can go 260 miles, and stupid flap removed so can actually fill it quickly!