Nigel Riches

The outboard end of my wing stay (1982 car) is attached through the GRP moulding with a 1/4 inch screw, and Nyloc nut, between these there is a 3/16 inch rubber packing. don't over tighten this as the wing will crack. i Also used large diameter washers under the screw head to spread the load, no problem so far. Have fun.

Holy thread resurrections. The difference between the Raceline item and the real Ford thermostat housing is the use of a bypass thermostat, where there is a flat plate on the hot end of the thermostat, this is initially open, allowing coolant to flow into the water pump inlet side, as the engine temp increases, this plate moves to close this flow, so all coolant from the head is directed through the radiator, this is from the original engine system, to allow quicker engine warm up, less pollution etc. Raceline system doesn't have the provision for this set up, thus the "hole" in the thermostat, to try and replicate the Ford setup. The original Ford system also prevents a big slug of cold radiator water rushing into the block as the temp reaches thermostat opening point, and causing the stat to close, causing wildly fluctuating indications on the temp indicator, which is only repeating what is happening in the engine. This link is an in depth look at Zetec cooling system on Kitcars. http://www.toyne.org.uk/zetec.html Probably very much after the event,but I am have an ongoing problem with a Black top Zetec and Raceline water rail, and, did I mention a broken piston ring on No. 1 cylinder Should have stuck with the Xflow.

Thanks Roger, I hadn't thought of that, as it is fairly new, but will get another when / if it goes back together.

G'day from the farside, I have had a problem, of water being expelled from the cooling system, on my Black top zetec motor, I have removed the cylinder head, had the head tested for flatness and a leak check and a hardness check, the head sealing surface was given a very light cut, to remove any surface irregularities, all the previous came back OK installed a new head gasket and new bolts, the problem is still manifest. Some back ground info. engine originates in around 2008. there is some history in the club pages here of a similar problem way back in time, No problem with it until the last few months, took a 160 mile tour and all was good, next day in I get and some odd things happening with the "Temp" indicator, got to about 115 on the gauge, unusual, drops back to normal 90c, all is good. Out again, and now things are not good, temp way up towards the 140 mark on the dial, big smell of coolant around the car, luckily I was only a short distance from home, so back to the shed. Let it cool off, where has all the coolant gone? none to be seen in the thermostat housing / filler port, (this is Raceline water rail setup, yes got the small bleed hole in the thermostat, and it's fitted the right way), but lots sprayed about the engine bay. Check thermostat operation, ok, reassemble, tighten water pump drive belt a bit more, refill, drive, no difference, deglaze water pump pulley, Raceline setup, fit new belt, in case belt wasn't driving pump hard enough, no diferrence, piss water out all about the place. Ok long shot, remove water pump check impeller is fitted tight on shaft, yes, no movement there, even if warmed with a heat gun, so, change the radiator, yes , I had a spare from x flow days, pull it all together and no change. I have not changed the water pump, as at this stage, throwing another wodge of money into this money sucking black hole is not likely to fix it. And moving on, when I was at the early stages of this problem I carried out a compression test, No.1 225, No2 215, No.3 210, No.4 210, Hmmm not to much there, but when I removed the cylinder head No.1 cylinder had a noticeable line down the bore, and the top of the piston was covered in an oily film, not good. Today I did a check, with the head off, in the old fashioned way of the rings, bring 1 and 4 to nearly TDC pour some Kero, (paraffin on top, which one drains away first) No.1passed the fluid in an hour or so, indicates a broken ring. No. 4 was still nearly as I filled it at this time So now there are two problems; overheating and scored bore. So, if I pull the block out and it can be saved by a light hone with some new rings for the piston, there is still the overheating, water expulsion problem. I hate this engine. Time to reinstate the X flow, flick all the bling Raceline stuff get back to how a 1982 Seven should be, Weber 40 DCOE's the raw noise of gearbox and intake, I'm beginning to think this is how it should be. So, over to the learned brethern of the Sevenistas, any thoughts, inspiration, jokes, sensible ideas gratefully received. Cheers from the Far Side.

Been there, done that, ok it was back in the dim darks of the '"80s remember them, no, oh well. back then it was a just get a new one, after all this time might not be so easy, but any decent engineering shop should be able to do a fix, good luck.

Hello from far away. I have been reading this thread and have over the years found that all engine mount rubber bungy things are not the same. Some collapse and distort more than others, I now run a zetec in a 1982 chassis, and your problems are trivial against this escapade. I have taken to using heavy penny washers under the engine mount bracket, above the rubber item, this, in your case will add another 2 - 3 mm height, and spreads the load so the bungy bit doesn't drop so much in the centre. Have you ever read where these items were originally used? Can't wonder they aren't up to the task of carrying 100Kg +, mind you the newer cars may have better and newer mount rubbers, I don't know. Anyway I hope you can get a fix for this problem. Regards. Nigel.,

Hi Colin, if you only need to remove some paint from the threaded hole you could use a suitable sized bolt and run a half round or triangular file down the treads to form a thread chaser / cleaner, much cheaper than buying a tap for a one off use.

Wurth Rost Off Plus was the stuff we used in the aero engine workshop, seemed better than the regular suspects, especially if dissimilar metals are involved. Not sure if you can get it in UK but it's a German brand, so probably available somewhere.

Hi Jon you don't seem to have much response to your question, so here goes, my starter motor arrived damaged and needed a new solenoid, now from what I can find in my records the following part numbers for the motors are the same thing, my set up is basically the same as yours Raceline alloy sump and I have the alloy bell housing. The starter motor to suit would be from a Sierra, or 2l Granada. If you search Delco Remy DRS 3468, or Lucas LRS 00707, you will probably get a good hit rate, with a zillion different numbers for the same thing from different manufacturers. Im not sure what brand mine is, and the info plate is on the wrong side as it's fitted. The engine I have is a crate engine DOHC 2L 16v supposedly for 2009 Focus, but I can't confirm that, as there aren't any numbers on it, hope this is of assistance. Regards. Nigel.

Several years back there was a "bulk buy" of a self canceling indicator control circuit, apparently these where an after market motorcycle item, I bought one and have found it to be really good, no need to drive miles with the indicators flashing. It wasn't a big wiring job; need a momentary double throw switch, flick it and forget it, who needs annoying beeeeeeeepers, what with all the other racket in a seven. And from a post further up the heap, the indicators work regardless of the beeper, just cut the wire, or get a higher attenuation ear plug. Have fun. Regards, Nigel..

Castrol Syntrax 75W90 does it for my box, Nigel.

I have the Tony Weale book and have noticed the variation in a the diagrams of the hand brake mechanism, I now have both springs in board of the shoes, but as the diagram "bjw" posted shows the spring at the piston position outboard, perhaps I need to assemble it in that manner, and see if I can get a better adjustment with the cable, which is free in the sleeve, I have deglazed the shoes, not that there appeared to be anything unusual with the surface, a quick rub over with some ali oxide paper, and also inside the drums, I haven't had a chance to get back to it since then, but we have a long weekend here, so hopefully more work before the man from the ministry checks it over. Thanks all for your assistance, much appreciated. Nigel.

Thanks for the info. The diagram supplied by bjw is interesting in that it shows the springs on inside and outside of the brake shoes, which is how I had mine fitted until yesterday, where upon I fitted the spring at the hydraulic actuator end to the inner side, with much cussing and mangled knuckles, I haven't had a chance to see if this has had any effect on the hand brake performance, got to late in the evening, needed some scoff and beer, will be back on the floor when I get home later. Hand brake effect has been very poor, not much retardation when hauling on the handle, so am looking at anything which might be out of whack. I should have taken a photo before dismantling it, hindsight. And bjw, if you could send the section through to my e mail I would be very grateful. Thanks. Nigel.

G'day fellow sevenistas, somewhere in my garage is a page with the diagram I now seek again, bloody Pixies probably shifted to a safe place. Anyway does anyone have a diagram, Haynes style, of the rear brake assembly from the Morris Marina axle, or a link to a page that I could download, just had a knuckle busting curse laden hour or so rolling about on the garage floor, figure that something isn't in the right place, it really shouldn't be this difficult. Any assistance gratefully received, many thanks. Nigel.

Thanks Richard, the one I have measured this afternoon is 3.75:1, admittedly this is a modified pedal for shorty pants drivers like me, and the standard one from the 1982 car is 3.09:1, approx. I am trying to sort out a long pedal travel, and understand longer arc of movement for the same M/C piston rod travel, but there are other things which could cause this, as I have recently had all the wheel cylinders and calipers off, and apart to fit new seals, the M/C was replaced, and also had new seals, as it was an old unit covered liberally in anti corrosion fluid, it worked. The pedal always was a bit long, but not as much as now, and the man from the ministry has to give it the tick, or it's not on the road, don't thinks it's going to meet his requirements as it is. I had a new one piece pedal made to meet the regulations, that used the same dimensions as the longer pedal mentioned above. I still feel I can get a higher pedal with some more fettling, bleeding, adjusting etc. Nigel.

Being lazy here, does anyone on these pages know the lever ratio of a standard Caterham brake pedal? Just doing a bit of fettling and one thing lead to another, as they do. Any assistance gratefully received. Regards. Nigel.

...and as far as I know, don't fit earlier cars, pre???, not my 1982 version. Nigel.

G'day Tomas, from the other side of the planet, I have a fuel swirl pot from Integrated Engineering in America, very good quality, they also have oil catch cans. https://performancebyie.com/search?page=1&q=oil+catch+can&type=product. They are primarily involved with tuning VW / Audi, not cheap, but you get what you pay for. Have fun. Nigel in NZ.

.....another for the rubber top hat bushes under the diff, these don't last long if there is any oil on them, well, they were originally steering system bushes, so not designed for oily contamination. Some Nolathane bushes would be a good replacement, more expensive but longer lasting. Or an "A" frame with Rose joint under the diff, more expensive again, and I don't know if these are still available, I have one and in over 30 years have only replaced the Rose joint twice. Check those bushes before rushing off to R & R and co. Nigel.

Neil, glad to have helped. These brake light switches are not very good in the hydraulic actuation system, there is a bleed nipple adjacent to the switch on "T" connector from the M/C, have you bled that at all? is the switch mounted on the forward horizontal port of the "T" connector, not the top one? The other thing to check would be the electrical resistance of the contacts in the switch, if they are corroded, the switch will not work well, and there isn't a repair for this, but as you have changed the switch, however the new switch maybe old, if you follow, The differential sensor is on the underside of the M/C with a wire attached, about where the pipes for the front brakes attach, the blanked off port on the rear is access to the differential actuator piston, the plastic sensor contact needs to be removed before you can withdraw the piston, which is a real prick of a thing to remove and refit, there are two very small "O" rings on it, these are in the kit, If you have lost one of the brake circuits the warning light on the dash should illuminate, if the bulb is Ok, this is due to the differential piston moving one way and contacting the pin in the plastic jobby under the M/C, grounding the light circuit, if the light isn't illuminating and the car is braking OK then the switch, even though new may be the problem. Nigel.

G'day Orangepeel61. I have been down this road in the last few years, the seal kit number I have is SSB1210 these M/C were originally fitted to Vauxhall Victor, Ventora and Viva in the 1970's. The packet has an English name and address. Nelson Stokes Ltd. Highfield Rd. Camelford. PL32 9RA. Cornwall. P. 1840 213711. E. enquiries@nelsonstokes.com. W. www.nelsonstokes.com. If you need a new complete new old stock M/C I can point you in the direction of a company here in Christchurch NZ with some on the shelf, I bought one a few years back, it took a bit of time to get all the preserving goop off it, and I put new seals in as the originals would have been getting on a bit. Be very careful with the brake differential pressure contact, I broke two, and eventually gave up and plugged the port with a bolt, they are made from unobtainium, and very fragile, this will need removing if you change O rings on the piston for this sensor. Get back to me if you need info, PM best as I don't seem to get replies from these pages, Google thinks they're all spam. Have fun. Nigel.

G'day Stephen. Sorry I can't help with the "step by step" bit, I have no knowledge of 21's, surely you of the inner circle lonely few 21 owners can get through this puzzle. You'll be fine, just take your time, anything that can happen can un-happen if needs be, just might have to throw some wonga at it, but that is the last resort. Keep going, you'll get the job done, and be chuffed that you did so. Chin up, and all that stiff upper lip bit. Nigel.

I recently removed the upper column of the type shown on the Caterham site. As Wrightpayne says, just turn the key to the first position releasing the bolt, the upper bush did come away with the shaft, no big deal, when installing new upper shaft, be sure to push the bush into place when the lower end has engaged the shaft in the engine bay, not sure if you can use the witness marks from the previous shaft to position the new one, but I doubt it will be far off. Enjoy your Q/R steering wheel, down here in the Antipodes Nanny won't allow us to use these on the road. Nigel.

Hi Stephen, good to hear you're into some spanner work. But before you start, if you haven't by now, disconnect the battery, neg lead first, pos lead next, big energy, spanner splatting energy there, makes a mess, and potential fire hazard. Good luck, and it's only bits of metal, in a three dimensional jigsaw puzzle, if it won't fit there it possibly doesn't fit there, take your time, as you well know there are thousands of hours of experience of these matters on this site. I know this isn't a 7 engine in / out thing, but you just have to eyeball it, do some lateral thinking and it'll be fine. And i know how tight space is in that garage, (same one?) since my trip a few years ago, cars in bits take up much more space. A decent hydraulic crane and a load leveler make things a lot easier, some good lighting helps also, be sure to protect the panels with suitable covers, I have used carpet off cut previously, taped in place, bit more heavy duty than a bit of cloth or paper. You'll be fine, I'll follow this thread, see how you get on. Regards, Nigel.

Has the outer cable been stretched? which would allow the inner to "float" in the outer, and detach from the speedo, It's been a long time since I had my angle drive off, but I can't recall there would have been sufficient depth there for the inner cable to "fall" into. As for your point about easy inner cable replacement, not if you have an early car with the enclosed transmission tunnel, if the cable breaks you have to remove two pieces, cant just pull it out from the dashboard end. Have fun. Nigel.