Nigel Riches

Hi Stephen. Having read your description of operation I can't understand how the solenoid stays in the latched position with power removed, I would expect it to move back to the un energized state when switched off, does it do this when not attached to the latch mechanism? I had a few sessions with the door locks on my tin top, the action of them and boot catches is a sort of over centre operation, which holds the latch in the open position, ready for the door lock striker bar, for the want of a better description, to reset to the closed position and hold the door, boot lid closed, so if you have released the boot catch and then close the boot lid it doesn't latch closed, is that what you are saying? It may be that it is in need of some lubrication of the mechanism. If you open the boot lid, and remove the power from the circuit try to make the lid catch go to the closed position by using a screwdriver to move the latch part to the closed position, it shouldn't take much effort, if it is a noticeable force required look at some lube on the pivots. If I was up there I could pop over and give you a hand, but as you know, I am miles away. Bash on, you'll get it sorted. Cheers. Nigel.

That looks like a fudge of the first order, and as has been pointed out an imminent cable failure. This will be some persons work around a problem, but it is not a satisfactory long term set up. Shorten the pedal to original length and shorten the cable to match, is it the correct cable? I don't suppose Caterham have any stock, seems a usual grind on these pages, but can be fixed better than seen here, as discussed above. Have fun. Nigel.

Hi James, look, I'm not familiar with this brake set up, but my first call would be to check freedom of movement of the calipers and pistons, from your image this kind of lopsided wear is possibly from the pad not retracting from the disc, (sticking piston) or the caliper not being able to centralise when released. Just a cople of thoughts.

The temp. of a thermostat is the "cracking" point, where it starts to open, the full open temp. will be 10 to 14 degrees higher, or should be on a properly functioning unit.

No mention here about alloy radiator electrolysis, which can fizz out an alloy radiator in short time, I have an earth cable from the front upper mounting outer nut clamping the radiator mounting bracket and the same bobbin nut at the rear, both against clear metal surfaces, not paint, the bobbins act as an insulator, so the radiator can experience an electrochemical charge on the alloy of the radiator, there is quite a bit about this on Tweb, my Radtec unit is now ten years young and still sound.

Hi Timb, thanks for te picture you posted, I hope you didn't twist or strain anything important to get this. I see there is a section of threaded screw protruding from the gear case, this might be a better way for me to deal with mine, Something to look at when it's a bit warmer and not pouring with rain. Cheers, and it is likely still leaking so now my attention will be on the tail housing seal, more fun and games.

Hi Alan, I had a feeling the situation might be as you describe, and person I spoke to said they had lost two machinist in the past few weeks. Looks like this might be a long time coming. cheers for the info, I'll keep hanging on. Nigel.

That's them Andrew, and Jonathon cheers for the links, I wish this kit was at that price now. Nigel.

Good evening from far away. Anyone here got any information about the above named company. I wish to purchase a rear axle upgrade for the Marina assembly on my 1982 car, but so far this process has been less enjoyable than visiting the dentist, 3 emails 2 international phone calls, and really no further forward than I started at. I understand this kit is the way to go for high BHP motors in live axle cars, and I believe is used widely in the Caterham racing classes, but do they want to sell them? Last call, yesterday evening, some half shafts had been machined, so some progress, but the other components were still to be addressed. And then all the grisly shipping and freight stuff. I am holding off a dyno run at max noise until I can get this sorted, don't wont a half shaft letting go on the dyno, not a rolling road set up. Wheels off, bolted to the dynamometer. So if anyone closer to the coalface knows something I would be grateful to hear, don't want ot ping my wonga, and find they have gone bung. Cheers. Nigel.

Cheers Tim, a quick question, how far down the hole is the screw which applies the pressure on the spring on your box? Having removed mine for this work I find the detent action to be rather course, lumpy, agricultural, I have moved the screw in and out somewhat, but hmmm, not quite as I recall it previously, may go like you, just keep shifting it until it is OK. And it's never been as slick and smooth as the BGH 'box I had previously. Cheers. Nigel.

Gentlemen, happy days here just now, the wretched oil leak is cured, turned out to be leaking from the selector rod locking pin, so some quick cleaning and application of thread sealant to the screw that adjusts the spring pressure on the rod, and a quick 60 mile trip round the local countryside, and the gearbox is dry underneath. However there now appears to be a leak from the 2nd hand diff. assy. not sure if it's from the pinion oil seal or the mating faces, new adventures tomorrow, hmmmmmmmm. Getting a bit tired of all these adventures, never mind , bash on. Cheers. Nigel.

Hello David, I doubt the Rover T P S would be anything very bespoke, if you go to the Emerald web page they can supply all sorts of sensors and T P S , are there any numbers on the item you have? might be starting point, sorry I can't shed more light on this, but a search for T P S on your fav. search engine will show plenty, good luck.

Thanks for the words gentlemen, the input shaft seal appeared to be dry on the outside, no sign of oil in the clutch bearing carrier sleeve, and as for the potential leak from the selector shaft position, I did apply Hylomar to the gasket there, specifically to prevent leakage. However later yesterday I was looking over the gearbox in situ, and there appeared to be oil running down from the selector shaft detent pawl adjusting screw, (is that what it's called) but this might be another red goose or wild herring, to mangle the metaphors. Plan of action now is clean the area around where I think it is leaking, apply some clean white cloth tied onto the gear case and go for a drive, when it stops raining, very technical I know, but might save having to pull the donkey out again. Cheers, bash on. Nigel.

Hello fellow 7 owners. I have a Quaife Type 9 gearbox that has an oil leak from the front face, between the bell housing and the gear case. I have hauled the motor and 'box out, separated the gearbox from the bell housing, noted the oil leak appeared to be from the gasket under the clutch release bearing carrier. I checked the sealing of the layshaft support spigot, that appeared to be ok, and there wasn't any oil outboard of the 1st motion shaft seal. This gasket was of a cork material, at 0.060 inch thick, I had some of this on the shelf, so using the original as a pattern cut a new gasket. Smeared the mating surfaces with Hylomar, which I allowed to dry, before reassembling, and I did clean all surfaces to remove any oil film. Got everything back together, engine and gearbox back in the hole, all the other stuff to make it go in place all the fluids replaced. Off down the road for a test run. when I checked underneath in the garage, there was evidence of an oil drip on the very front of the gearbox, and it had leaked whilst on my 30 mile run, as there is an oily film under the car and on the back axle. So, do any of you know what the correct gasket material is for this position. As it seems this cork stuff isn't up to snuff. Strangely this gasket, pictured on the Burton web page is of a cork material. Yes I know it's only GBP 2.50, but Burtons send stuff out on DHL at an exorbitant cost, so I won't be getting one from them. Any info greatly appreciated. Happy daze, now the summer is fizzling out. Cheers. Nigel.

Thanks Alan, may have to ask around for some company under the car. Definitely don't want the Missus there. Mr. Wrightpayne sent me copies of Haynes manuals he had about the rear axle and braking set up, so I'll be in the garage some time again soon, probably tomorrow as rain is on the menu. Thanks. Nigel.

Hi Giles. If you search the Quaife website there is a Technical support page which gives info on oil type for various products. https://www.quaife.co.uk/customer-service/technical-support/ I was interested in this problem as I also have a Quaife QBE15Z, which is leaking profusely from the bell housing / gearbox face, so it is being removed to install a new seal and gasket. I shall possibly use the FuchTitan SYN 5 75W-90, in both the gearbox and the ATB, especially as this oil is readily available here in NZ. Have fun, these are not quiet 'boxes, but a more musical noise than the previous gearbox I had. Regards Nigel.

OK got 55 views and no info. So I have been under the back of the car yesterday, and it appears removal of the "A" frame is the way to go, that's what's happening sometime soon, after the engine is out to sort the gearbox oil leak, 250ml in about 200 miles , not to mention all the mess. Happy daze. And strangely further up today Tech Talk entries is a question about the same 'box I have , a Quaife, straight cut, close ratio, and what oil type to use, however it was oil tight before the previous removal, but I used different oil on the refill, oh well bash on. Cheers and regards. Nigel.

I have finally decided to shift the diff I bought years ago off the bench and onto the car. So, do I need to drop the A frame? or any other stuff to do with the chassis, I have the Haynes pubs about removing and refitting the diff, in relationship to a Morris Marina (thanks Wrightpayne), just need to get under and do it. And I do have a set of new gaskets, came with the unit. Any input gratefully received. Cheers. Nigel.

Cheers for the link, there isn't sufficient space between pipe and panel for orientating to far down, this a Raceline setup. Good old jewelers screwdriver to bend the tang down, not seen that done before . Hopefully this will arrive early next week, so may do a bit of dummy alignment with the silencer off. I like your comment about the connectors being easily available, down here in NZ, some of this stuff is made out of Unobtainium, hens teeth are more available. Cheers. Nigel.

James, this is the complete kit, controller, cables and sensor Bosch LSU 4.9, I like your idea of removing the pins in the connector so as not to have a large hole through the panel, did the pins release easily? I do have a few tools to aid pin removal, but I bet they won't work on this. What angle is your sensor mounted?, seems directly upright is a no no, I could probably get a 15deg tilt inboard, prefer that side rather than outward facing, and hopefully the exhaust pipe might offer a bit of protection from F O D. Do you have a long mounting for the probe? or the standard approx 15mm thing. Neat leak tec idea for the exhaust sealing, will defo be checking that out when it's all back together. Back to installation, as my car dates from 1982, I have clamshell wings, and right alongside where the sensor will be installed there is a wing stay / steady, I plan to use this to support the cable and put a small hole through the side panel for the cable, and route it around the engine bay to the ECU, you have to have a plan, otherwise you won't know when it's gone wrong . Anyway, bash on. Nigel.

Thanks again. James (aerobod) I have bought an AEM-X 30-0310 wideband set up, I will be removing the collector this afternoon, for a trip to the local bespoke exhaust pipe manufacturer in town to get a stainless mounting installed. Have found a supply of O2 safe sealant, either Loctite or Permatex, so things are ticking along. Thanks for your assistance, much appreciated. Chers. Nigel.

Thanks again. James (aerobod) I have bought an AEM-X 30-0310 wideband set up, I will be removing the collector this afternoon, for a trip to the local bespoke exhaust pipe manufacturer in town to get a stainless mounting installed. Have found a supply of O2 safe sealant, either Loctite or Permatex, so things are ticking along. Thanks for your assistance, much appreciated. Chers. Nigel.

Thank you all, good info here, I hadn't considered the leakage aspect, so may just stick with the port on No. 4 header. Anyway the dyno driver phoned this morning, it's set to run on 27 April, and that leaves enough time do some other stuff on it, like install the Quaiffe ATB and Jigsaw CWP, don't want a diff blow up on the machine, very bad look.

Thanks James, much appreciated. The bending of pins was one of many gripes from people, who are perhaps not so gentle on the kit. I think I could be ok in that situation. Just as a further question, is your sensor installed at the convergence of the headers into the collector? I have a boss on No. 4 header for a sensor, but it is only about 8 inches from the exhaust port, too hot, and only one cylinder being monitored. I will be looking at getting a boss just before the silencer. And then figure out the wiring route, as it would be rather exposed in that position. Anyway, bash on. Thanks. Nigel.

I am looking at installing an O2 sensor and controller, to help get the Emerald and Jenveys to play nicely on the Zetec. However having a bit of a dig around on the web, the Innovate LC-2 controller doesn't exactly get a good review, many cases of failed out of the box, I don't really need that sort of hassle, being a complete novice at this type of tuning. The physical wiring it all together is the kind of thing I have many years of experience at, so no problems on the side of the page. I have looked at the Zeitronix pages and these seem to be well reviewed on other car web pages, no name, no shame. And allegedly "Made in America" well hmmmmmm. So anyone out there got any input about this, before I launch hundreds of $$$$ into the etherweb. Any assistance gratefully received, cheers. Nigel.