Nick Green

If Caterham don't play ball (to my satisfaction), then I'll have look at my starter to see if it suffers from a similar problem to the Ford jobby. However, it might not, so I'm afraid I'll need an actual part number. Sierra 1.8 is definitely homing in, but I haven't got one to take to an auto-electrician to identify. There are loads of different starters used on Sierras. Thanks for everyone's help so far. I might end up with a shiny doorstop out of this too smile.gif Actually, on second thoughts, hold off charging out to garages and removing bonnets till I've worked out what's happening on the guarantee front, or attempted to fix the one I've got. Cheers, Nick. Edited by - nick green on 13 Mar 2001 10:38:23

While this thread has become a bit dead, I realised a few days ago I had given a little bit of duff info, which I don't like doing. For the record, the DS scavenge pump belt is not a V as I said in my last post; it is indeed poly-v, as PC subsequently states. It has 2 grooves in it. Edited by - nick green on 12 Mar 2001 18:11:12

I am currently on my second starter motor. I've only had the type with the solenoid on the bottom, which Caterham introduced, to get round the problem with the old one where it would occasionally not work. This was thought to be due to heat affecting the solenoid, but has turned out to be due to a hairline fracture in a contact. The heat cause was the reason why a "solenoid underneath" design was introduced. My first starter was replaced under guarantee, but my second has now gone the same way. I am going to see what Caterham can come up with, but if they are going to send me another exactly the same as I already have, I'm not sure I want it. I don't need the aggro of waiting while it decides to go again. Therefore, I was thinking of either taking my current one apart and seeing if there is anything actually wrong, or else trying to get hold of the previous version and do the mod which stops the problem on that one. Tim, if it's not actually a Rover part, that's not a problem; just want to find out what its part number is should I want to get one. Cheers, Nick (aka Nick G, when using other computer)

Paul, I don't know of any other K dry sump pump system. (Caterham's system has an additional scavenge pump, but continues to use the built-in oil pressure pump.) I believe Roger King has installed a xflow system on to a K-series. Perhaps he'll have some bright ideas ? On the belt subject, the pump belt is V, not grooved. I thought the problems with the belt coming off on the Factory R500s and Peter C's engine was due to running arund the 9k revs mark and that the belt just couldn't stay on ? I think it depends how many revs you are planning to use. I don't think SLRs (non 500s) have the unshipping problem.

FOTH, How much oil ? I assume we are talking the Caterham system here. I've found, as have others I know, that the limiting factor is when it starts being spat out to the catch tank. I don't know about other DS systems. "As much as the system will take" is the answer, I think. As for level chacking, the Caterham advise is to do it with a warm, just stopped engine, before much oil has a chance to drain back to the sump. Which, thinking on from the previous paragraph, implies a more objective method of checking: With a low top DS system, use a piece of stick. Caterham recommend a notch 10" up, though I've found with my 5l limit that 9" is about spot on. The high top system has a "proper" (ie built-in dip stick. Luxury.

Ah, already emailed Tim off-list smile.gif Just after some early info, if anyone knew any! Perhaps a little patience on my part is in order...

Does anyone know the symptoms of a knackered oxygen sensor (O2/lambda probe) ?? Would I expect to feel any difference when actually driving, or would it only manifest when a gas analyser probe is stuck up the exhaust ? (No Cat fitted at the moment) TIA, Nick.

Last time I checked on a Yoko web site (www.yokohama.co.uk ?), the advice was to run rear tyres in the direction of the arrows (or "allows" as it said!) and the fronts backwards. This was for rwd applications. Apparently, if you ring them, they say run them all in the same (arrowed) direction. Not sure it is worth the hassle. Depends how much tread is left ?

Chris, I use an airflow trickle charger, as sold by Caterham, but I got mine from Demon Tweeks. Been using it for a couple of years now. Works fine. Nick.

Pierre, You will find 021Rs will last little more than 5-6000 miles (9-10,000 km) in normal use. It will be less on tracks. If you decide to go for them anyway, you will find them v. good. You should also notice that they lose the first couple of mm of tread very quickly, but then settle down after that. A 750MC racer mentioned that behaviour to me, and he was right, IME. Nick.

Dave, Get the car reasonably level, with access to the filler plug thingy part way up the back. Take it out. If oil just dribbles out, no problem. If nothing dribbles out, put oil in till it does. Emptying it is a bridge I have yet to cross. Graham Ford on the se7ens list recommends whipping the back plate off. DT do a couple of pump type thingies that might do the job. Let me know how you get on :-) Nick.

Should have added: get on the Se7ens list, via www.se7ens.net, for *much* more K tuning info, from people who've done it.

Chaps, Sounds to me like a bit of confusion between a Superlight (1600 or 1800, power in the 130s), and a Superlight R, which is the 190bhp VHPD engined version. If you are talking 130s bhp that sounds like a "normal" Superlight to me. There are all sorts of tuning possibilities with these, from just changing cams, to serious headwork and throttle bodies.... Whatever, I would get used to what you have first. 1600SS race cars are usually only about 6s slower than SLRs at most race tracks. The driver makes a lot of difference :-)

Oops! Wrong number!! Try 01666 822723 instead. At least I'm an acolyte now.

I had this problem on my car. In the end I had to get someone at Caterham to go and check their "official" wiring diagrams... When all the different coloured wires were compared to what I had, it turned out that the leads from the battery and to the starter motor were on the wrong terminals. If you want to call me at home sometime this week (but not tonight) on 01666 832749, I can stick my head in the car and we can compare wiring ?

I was pretty surprised to find last weekend when changing a blown headlight bulb on my 7, that 60/55 Xenon bulbs were fitted as standard... I'd agree about the 100/80 bulbs though. I've got them on my Golf, with relayed uprated loom and they are stonking.

Keith, contact me on my email address above and we can discuss suitability, etc :-)

Hi David. Your manual is on its way as of this morning. Nick.

Hi again David. I can photo-copy my spare copy (which I did so it would have a clean one...). Where do you live and how desperate are you ? Email me off-list on nickgreen@lucent.com, if you like.

David, I've got the same set up as you and am convinced I've got 5l+ in mine. I'll be in car 56. I note you are number 42. Come and say hello, if I don't beat you to it. As Mike's, V7's and my replies have probably indictated, the correct level for your car is basically as much as you can get in, without it blowing out at an unacceptable (to you) rate. See you Saturday. Looks like we are both up for the novice's cup too :-)

I would put all the oil in the tank. Well, as much as I could initially. The Caterham recommendation for the K system is to do this, which makes sense I think, as wouldn't oil put in the cam cover filler simply drain down to the sump anyway, and then be pumped to the tank ? I then turn the engine over without letting it fire (keep the immobiliser switched on, in my case), till the pressure comes up. At this point you could probably add more oil, as some of it will now be in the engine. Then start the engine properly. Once stopped, if you haven't added the remaining oil already, do so now. That's how I do it, anyway.

Go for it Nigel! 0.25l at a time till it blows out. Thinking on from Mike's comments, perhaps the reason I can get "more" oil in, is because it is being lost somewhere else... Not in my garage, that's for sure. Oh no, more paranoia setting in! Now about that latest rattle...and why does my temp gauge go up a bit when I put the heater on ??

Mike, Are the tank capacities you quote, the amount of oil in the tank only, or in the whole engine system ? Just want to be clear :-)

Reckon so, Nige. I don't know why yours is so different to mine. You have the SLR engine of course, which may pressurise the crankcase differently or something (could be talking b*ll***s). You also have the swirl tower. Perhaps where the breather comes off the that, compared to out of the top plate on my set up has an effect. Don't know really :-) Have you put the holes in your catch tank cap yet, BTW ?

Bugger. Apologies for multiple posts. I was getting a URL error or something, so was assuming I wasn't getting through. Sorry. Nick.