NickD

Doug, You only need the GEMS dongle if you wish to use their latest GWV3 or 4 software. The original software which was produced when the MiniZeta was current will still run on a current lapotop (XP at least) and never needed a dongle.

You can change the map on the GEMS ECU for free if you use the old DOS-based software. The dongle is only required if you want to use the more recent windows software, and the old DOS software will still work on a pc running XP and is not difficult to use.

At least having the 0 bleed valve gives plenty of scope for experimentation! If the pump system is working fairly well but is just a bit rich or weak, changing the bleed is usually the easiest option - probably better than changing the pump jet as this also changes the full throttle mixture. The other variables are the stroke of the pump and the strength of the pump spring. The stroke sets how much fuel is pumped, the spring sets how quickly this is delivered and the relative size of the jet and bleed sets where the fuel actually goes. With a blank bleed, all the fuel goes through the jet. Changing the jet size only speeds up or slows down the delivery - the same amount of fuel goes through the jet.

A Google search for the part number should provide a few. Try http://www.dellorto.co.uk/merchandise/products_details.asp?PartNo=79701&CategoryID=3&PartsectionID=58 Before someone else points this out, there are other ways of changing the characteristics of the accelerator pump, and the effectivness of changing the bleed is linked to the other settings. The bleed is just the easiest thing to try first as it is simple to change. Edited by - NickD on 22 Sep 2010 01:11:22

The simple answer is Yes – try changing the pump bleed/spill valve (Weber part no. 79701.nnn) The bleed valve allows fuel which would otherwise go through the pump jet to be returned to the float chamber. The size of this bleed relative to the size of the pump jet dictates how much fuel goes through each, so a larger size of bleed reduces the amount of fuel through the pump jet.

Does anyone have an old-style Vauxhall race RHD single hoop roll-over bar for sale?

Simon, The pump in your photo is the single scavenge type with the oil return outlet on the top. This outlet emerges right underneath the Caterham RH engine mounting bracket and so can't be fitted unless you want to make an alternative bracket. The twin scavenge version of the Swindon pump with a side oil exit does fit a 7 as the outlet is then behind the Caterham bracket - not that this helps you much.

The Swindon dry sump assy will fit in a 7, as the pump is on the right in a similar position to the Caterham dry sump pump. The Swindon version has the advantage that the drive is taken from the water pump rather than the crank pulley, so no problems with the alternator belt interfering with the oil belt. There are at least two versions of pump - a single pressure/single scavenge unit as fitted to Formula Vauxhall Lotus cars and a single pressure/twin scavenge unit for Touring Cars etc. Both work well and are very expensive new so £420 is a pretty good price. A potential problem with this installation (and also with most of the non-Caterham systems) is that the sumps are very shallow, leaving an abrupt step at the bell housing which is vulnerable to damage from catching obstructions in the road. The Caterham sump has fins which taper down to the full depth of the bellhousing and therefore tends to ride over any bumps.

KAP, I just turned the rack spacers from some steel bar - easy if you have access to a lathe. I only used steel as I had it to hand - aluminium or nylon would have been lighter. This is in no way a precision part as it only functions as a thick washer to limit the rack travel. An alternative is to use some commercial shaft collars. Have a look at "Round Bore Shaft Collars" here - http://www.staffordmfg.com/index.htm for an idea of the options available. My spacers were similar to the "Set Screw Type Collar" - cheap but you have to dismantle the rack to fit them. An easier alternative would be a "Two-Piece Clamp Type" or a "Hinged" collar, as all you would have to do to fit these is remove the rubber gaiter and then fit the collars adjacent to the large lock nut at each end of the rack. The spacers need to be about 0.5" thick with an I.D to match the rack (I think 3/4" but check). Hope this helps. Nick

The solvent parts washer fluid that Machine Mart sell works fine (p/n 059931120)- although both expensive and smelly. I agree that the water-based one (059930411) is useless.

I'd weighed two sets of my Barnby wheels. The older set averaged 3.582kg front & 3.856kg rear, while the newer set averaged 3.643kg front & 3.926kg rear following a repaint I'll weigh anorther set next time the tyres are off

The pre-94 racks were based on a lhd Austin Metro unit and were available in cycle and flared wing versions. The only difference between these was that the cycle wing version had a nylon lock-limiting spacer fitted to each end of the rack. Post 94, Caterham supplied a purpose-made rack manufactured by Titan and these are only available with the restricted cycle wing travel. You can fit spacers to your early rack - I made some steel spacers (about 1/2" thick) for mine years ago. You will have to remove the track rods from each end of the rack to fit the spacers so a bit of a fiddle to do. I reckon that the Metro racks are a better engineered unit than the Titan ones although they are only available in the slow (0%) version, whereas the faster (8% & 22%) Titan racks are nicer for track use.

Matt, Yes, complete with retaining strap and free to a good home.

I have an new/unused one of these that you can have if you wish

These handbrake calipers can be persuaded to work well enough for the MoT test - I've had better than 20% from them. A problem with the calipers is that they only allow less than 3mm total pad travel, so that they have to be adjusted until the pads are nearly touching the disc on each side when fully released. You will have to play with shims between the two caliper halves and (maybe) bend the mounting plate to achieve this. I made some thinner shims to help with this. Then tighten the adjusting screw on the back of the caliper to set the minimum clearance. The handbrake now gripped but wouldn't release properly so I then fitted a return spring to each caliper. This was just a compression spring slipped over the end of the cable between the mounting bracket and the lever on the caliper. All of this resulted in a system which worked quite well. The downside was that the rear brakes then squeaked when used on the road. I only resolved this by slackening the adjustment screw on the caliper after the MoT. The handbrake still worked, although not as well, and I just readjust prior to any further test.

The input shaft bearing is usually a fairly loose fit in the iron gear case and can easily be moved by hand. The front housing compresses the bearing against the circlip and stops it moving about too much. The shaft tends to move a bit even when assembled with a new bearing.

The Ford blocks only seem to cause problems when abused via rough/hard gearchanges as often happens on race cars - the sort of changes that will also split synchro rings. I used the standard block on a Quaiffe HD box for 10 years without a problem. As always, the choice is yours.

VDO make a 80mm speedo which uses a Stack-like sensor on the front wheel and which isn't too bad a match for existing instruments. The speedo is easily programmable for wheel revs/mile sensed via the four disc mounting bolts on the front hub. I bought the speedo from Merlin Motorsport and a sensor (530293) from Farnell and its worked fine for the last two years.

Have you checked the alternator conections, as all power is routed via here so a loose connection can cut all supply?

Does anyone have a Valeo alternator as supplied by Caterham for Vx and Ford engined cars? This doesn't have to be a healthy unit (though I would like one of these too), as I need a donor to provide parts to repair another. Nick

A worn plate will slip, not grip so can't cause the reverse gear problem. This is usually caused by a slightly dragging clutch (and only a tiny amount is required as reverse has no synchro and the point at which the clutch is completely disengaged is a long way below the bite point) which is in turn usually caused by insufficient release bearing travel. Given your "noise", the CRB is a likely offender although hydraulic leaks/cable adjustment can also contribute (as can a knackered cover or any other part - usual disclaimer).

Most new bobbins are likely to have an M8 x 1.25 thread. Older ones were often 5/16” UNF. The metric thread has the coarser pitch of the two.

4.8kg for the 8.5" & 4.4kg for the 6.5"

Ned, The standard gasket only has a bore of about 87.6 mm and the gasket is rarely (never?) concentric with with bores in the block. These facts mean that the standard gasket is unlikely to reliable if used with an 88mm bore. Cometic (www.cometic.com) make laminated steel gaskets to suit an 88mm bore, and these are stocked by SBD and others. They are available in various thicknesses to allow the compression ratio to be adjusted. The inevitable downside is that they cost about £100. Nick

Barry, You're not looking at the right bit. The stub shaft and bearing are for the layshaft, not the main input shaft. Ford has produced two variants of the T9 case, to suit two different layshafts. These can be identified by examining the front face of the gearbox (with the bellhousing & gasket removed). The early type of layshaft fits flush with the front face, and all that is visible is the end of a 21mm bar below the input shaft bearing cover. The later layshaft is the “stub” under discussion, and which has a flange of about 40m dia secured to the front of the casing by 3 (usually blue) bolts. Most Caterham-supplied T9 gearboxes had this later shaft. Quaife laygears are available to suit both types of layshaft, and they both use loose needle-roller bearings. (The early Ford laygears use the same needle-rollers, while the later ones use a caged roller bearing with the stub). Finally, as mentioned in my early posting (see top of page 6), Quaife make a conversion layshaft that allows a late-type case to be used with an early-type laygear. This is the layshaft mentioned in Michael’s original summary of the Quaife offer on page 5. Nick