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Mike Scott

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Everything posted by Mike Scott

  1. Mike Scott
    Hi Darren, Out of interest how much oil did it take to re-fill your 60G box? I have the sequential box on my R500 and will be re-filling it after it’s been back to Quaife for the upgrade. I’ve found that filling the box insitu via the breather is a very easy exercise (no need to cut holes in the foot well) but you need to know how much oil to put in. As far as experience with this box, I’ve run it for 9 months now with no problems what so ever apart from the designed in oil leak (hence having to send it back to Quaife for the upgrade). It is very noisy (straight cut) but the slick change makes up for this and I’d be loath to change back to a H pattern box. Cheers Mike
  2. Mike Scott
    Hi Darren, If you send me your e-mail address to mikeandmary@manx.net I can send you photos of the chassis and gearbox fixing on the R500 I’m currently building with the 60G box. You’ll see that the lower chassis rails have been modified to clear the box sump. It takes up all the room and, even with the cut out, nearly touches the lower rails I may even install a couple of washers below the gearbox mounts to space it up a bit. BTW thanks a lot for posting the Duratec manual, I’ve downloaded and converted back to PDF. Hopefully I won’t have to refer to it too soon. Cheers Mike
  3. Mike Scott
    Hi Simon, It sounds like the clutch release fork is bending / cracked. I had exactly the same fault on my old SLR which had a CC dry sump. Turned out the clutch release arm had cracked at the welds near the release bearing and was flexing. The syncro’s are stopping you engaging gear with the engine running as the clutch is not fully releasing. Hope this helps. Mike
  4. Mike Scott
    Thanks all, Excellent advice as always. The sage words from Roger have swung it for me, I think I’ll go for the new Quaife sequential with helical gears. Will be getting back on to CC to see if I can persuade them to supply it as part of the kit; I’ll let you know how I get on. Alex, I fully understand your sentiments and there’s a bit of me that feels the same way, but never having had a play with a sequential I think I’ll give it a go. Thanks again for all the input. Mike
  5. Mike Scott
    Hi Guys, I’m calling on the combined wisdom of Blatchat to help me decide on the spec of my new R400 Duratec kit I pick up in Oct The hard bit, colour, is pretty well sorted but I’m still debating which gearbox to go for I’ve read the excellent thread on “Gearbox for 300 bhp” and note Mark Biddle’s comment that he tried “new Quaife sequential box and found the change mechanism a bit agricultural”, and Alex Wong’s comment “he’d prefer a H pattern box in a road car”. On the other hand we have all read the numerous mag reviews on the new R500 raving about the new sequential box, even on road tests. So what would be your choice 🤔 H pattern or Sequential 🤔 The car will be used for 70% track and fast (there’re no speed limits on the Isle of Man) work and 30% touring, and I guess in a year or so I may be visiting Ammo for a few more bhp. I’ve already asked CC for the option price for the Sequential box in the R400 kit and they’ve said it’s only an R500 option. If they won’t play ball I may order the kit less gearbox and get the sequential direct from Quaife. Cheers Mike
  6. Mike Scott
    Hi All, ARB now sourced Cheers Mike
  7. Mike Scott
    Hi Guys, Looking for a green ARB for a wide track de dion car 98 vintage. Not too worried about the condition. Can anyone help? Mail to mikeandmary@manx.net or call me on 07734146626 Cheers Mike
  8. Mike Scott
    Hi Rich, If the bottom of the rad is staying cold even when it’s boiling out of the expansion tank it could be the thermostat is stuck closed. However, the temp will rise slowly once it gets to around 96C, at this stage the stat should open and the cold water flushed out of the rad will stop the temp rising quickly. I’ve still got the old water rail if you want it to carve up. Give me a call if you want me to drop it round, and have a look with you; we can see water temps direct from the Emerald. Cheers Mike
  9. Mike Scott
    Hi Rob, I’ll take the green anti roll bar if it’s still going. Drop me a mail to mikeandmary@manx.net and I’ll send you details. Cheers Mike
  10. Mike Scott
    Hi Rich, Do you need to 100 ohm resistor in series 🤔 Unfortunately the manual I got with my Emerald doesn’t show the circuit for Lambda sensor, but with the 100 ohm resistor in series with the Emerald any current flow into or out of the Emerald will result in voltage drop from one end of the resistor to the other and hence different readings; as Darren says resistors aren’t directional. From what you say above it looks like the voltage difference across the resistor is about 0.5V which means the current flow through the resistor is about 5mA. This is quite a high current if both the Emerald and LC1 are supposed to be high impedance voltage sensing inputs Give me a call if you want to have a chat. Cheers Mike
  11. Mike Scott
    Hi Charlie, I’ll take the clutch cable if you split them. Cheers Mike
  12. Mike Scott

    Mike Scott replied to Mike Scott's topic in Test and Ideas

    Edited by - Mike Scott on 14 Feb 2008 21:50:29
  13. Mike Scott

    Mike Scott replied to Mike Scott's topic in Test and Ideas

    Edited by - Mike Scott on 14 Feb 2008 22:00:47
  14. Mike Scott
    Hi Peter / Tom, Thanks a lot for the prompt and very helpful reply Will follow up with Titan. Cheers Mike
  15. Mike Scott
    Hi Blatchatters, Have stripped down the gold pump on my 98 SLR as I don’t think it’s ever been serviced. Apart from some minor scratches on the impellers (no pitting) they seem fine, and there’s no play in the bearing or shafts. However, I do get a fine oil mist from the bearing seal, which has got worse over the past year, and which nicely coats the drivers side of the engine bay Does anyone know where I can get a new seal, the current seal is marked Nok SC 14 28 7 (OD 28mm - ID 14mm – 7mm thick) or who services these pumps. Hope it’s not a case of TADTS Thanks in advance Mike
  16. Mike Scott
    Hi BOSS, £20 for the water rail seems a very fair price to me. If you could please send the photo, and your address, to mike.scott@strix.com I’ll send you a cheque and my address, do you want anything extra for postage? Cheers Mike
  17. Mike Scott
    Hi BOSS, I’m not sure what the second hand price is for these, but new from CC they are £75.87. I don’t need the sensor, mine’s OK. So what do you want for just the rail, and do you have a photo? Cheers Mike
  18. Mike Scott
    Hi Guys, Anyone got a K series EU2 water rail they no longer need? Mine’s started weeping (poor thing) where the fixing tab is welded on, and as it’s showing serious signs of corrosion internally, so I don’t think it’s worth welding up. Cheers Mike
  19. Mike Scott
    Hi Geoff and Judith, Another vote of thanks from the Isle of Man contingent, what a super day *cool* Just whish we could get over for more of them ☹️ Hope to see you at Norfolk Cheers Mike
  20. Mike Scott
    Hi Guys, Had a bit of an off at Cadwell yesterday and as well as replacing the nose cone and rad I need a new front ARB. The cars a 98 SLR with CC wide track, and when I got it it was (is) fitted with a green ARB. This has always seemed a bit thick to me for a K engined car. What’s the wisdom of Blatchat for a suitable ARB for an SLR used on road and track. Thanks a lot Mike
  21. Mike Scott
    Hi Roger, When I changed the hoses over to silicon on my SLR (not R400) I had to take the induction manifold off to get to the water pump / thermostat housing. It’s a bit of a pain but there’s no other way to get to it. Cheers Mike
  22. Mike Scott
    Hi Adrian, I haven’t seen a Blatmail from you so I’ll e-mailed you with my contact details. Cheers Mike
  23. Mike Scott
    Ade, Go on then you talked me into it. Blatmail me your address and I’ll send you a cheque. Cheers Mike Edited by - mike scott on 7 Mar 2007 14:25:01
  24. Mike Scott
    Hi Rich, I’ll bring my torque wrench along tonight. Do you need transport to the Crosby? If yes drop me a text with your address. Cheers Mike
  25. Mike Scott
    Hi Rich, I tried to e-mail you the Rover manual for the K series but you may not have got it (17MB); I’ll bring along the relevant bit tonight. Regarding the head bolt torques, the manual says tighten to 20Nm, then a further 360 deg turn, in 2 stages of 180 deg each. It might be worth checking with Oily but I think I’ve read somewhere that you may have to replace the long (through the block) head bolts if they have stretched. I’m sure he’ll put you right on this. Cheers Mike
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