Mick Day

Do we have a system problem here folks? Mick

Don't worry Nick, you'l soon get the hang of single posts!! Mick

Don't worry Nick, you'l soon get the hang of single posts!! Mick

Don't worry Nick, you'l soon get the hang of single posts!! Mick

Don't worry Nick, you'l soon get the hang of single posts!! Mick

I've had the same problem (see previous threads) & wired the starter(Magneton) via a relay. No problems over the past month or so including hot days in France on Le-Sept. I suspect it's caused by the Vecta imobiliser (or maybe the ignition switch). Vecta is being removed over the winter. Mick

Sounds as though you're swapping your "old" 1.4 for a "new" 1.6. The teeth on the flywheel (for the crank sensor not the starter) are different & so is the crankshaft pulley. Other differences include the injection sequence & the ignition coil. Not too sure on the differences between a 96 & 98 1.6 K though. Swapped my 1994 1.4 for a 1999 1.6 in 2000. Plenty of headaches. Mick

Download the brochure from the Autocom site & it comes complete with gross UK prices. Anyone using this system with a car to car radio connected other than the recommended icom or kenwood? Mick

Tony Do a search on starters etc as this has been discussed before. Basically there are 3 starters available: 1. Original part as supplied to your car. Comes from a Sierra with solenoid on top. Suffers from heat problems in solenoid with dry &/or broken joints which can be fixed. 2. Magneton starter (Skoda part) with solenoid underneath. Now supplied with heat shield for solenoid. Some people have reported solenoid sticking in bore but it can be taken apart & cleaned. 3. So called race starter. 2 & 3 can be supplied by Brise Fabrications or Demon Tweaks (or of course Caterham). I've had problems with the wiring from the ignition switch to the starter (Magneton) solenoid. Briefly something is causing an increased resistance (switch or Vecta??) resulting in the solenoid refusing to play. Connect the solenoid directly to the battery & it works! Solution: connect a relay close to the battery fired by the orginal solenoid wire. With this remedy I had no problems starting on Le-Sept. Mick

Thermoswitch fitted to Caterham K series (pre EU3 before 2001 etc) is a VW Polo part & switches on at about 92 deg & off at about 89 deg. I would suggest you get the SPA dash calibrated or look at the accuracy of the water temp sender. Your water temps seem rather too high to me. Mick

So if the MEMS ECU is toast & it's out of warrenty now is the time to get an Emerald ECU! Mick

Dot 5 is silicone fluid. The 2 people who I know used it have now changed to regular. Dot 4 is the minimum to use but Dot 5.1 has a higher boiling point. There are 2 boiling points to beware of: the 1st is the dry point which I believe is for pure fluid; the 2nd is the wet point which I suppose is when the fluid is contaminated with a known quantity of water. I use Halfords 5.1 & replace 2 x year. Car does about 8 to 15 track days a year. Mick

Ross You mentioned pin outs - you have mail! Mick

Do a more detailed search as fitting times have been discussed before. Not really difficult but can be a pain getting it oil tight. I suppose similar to fitting an oil cooler really. It's the unions on to the sandwich plate that cause most hassle. Expact to spend a day getting it fitted & a further day getting it oil tight. Good luck. Mick

Chris Seems as though the price is £50 then! And yes it is a polished ali one Mick

Chris Sorry can't help you with the electrics but I have a spare heated screen for sale. talk about ambulance chasing!!!! Mick

Paul You're absolutely right & I agree with everything you say, no amount of wriggling the spade connecter could induce the solenoid to operate on my Magneton starter. Incidently of Skoda origin! As far as I know there are 3 starters doing the rounds: 1. Magneti Marelli with the solenoid on the top. This can be induced to work by wriggling the connecter & modifying as Peter & Johnty say. 2. Magneton geared starter with solenoid underneath. Now supplied with a neat solenoid heat shield. 3. So called race starter. Solenoid about the same size as the motor itself. 2 & 3 are supplied to Caterham by Brise Fabrications (01322-277622) who can also test & repair starters & alternaters. Johnty You can come out of the fume cupboard now! Mick K series which started again tonight, whether hot or cold, again & again & again & again! Edited by - mick day on 10 Jul 2002 23:31:57

Reactivating this thread because I've just rewired my starter solenoid so it fires direct from the battery via a relay. My starter is the geared variety marked Magneton & "failed" after 2 hours! Thinking it'd been over-cooked at the Ring I was all for buying the "race version" which is supposedly bullet proof. So why should this cure the problem? The starter solenoid is activated by the ignition switch via I suppose another relay (MFU: what's this?) so the current should be adequate to "throw" the solenoid. And why should heat affect this so far away from the engine? I have a Vecta imobiliser which isolates, amongst other things, the starter circuit. I'm wondering whether the Vecta is the cause of the problem. With age & vibration (& maybe a little heat) it may be offering too high a resistance to "throw" the solenoid but enough current to activate a relay. Of course this won't cure all starter problems, especially where soldiered joints have failed, but it seems to cure this one. Fingers crossed! Mick

Mav I'm glad you got it sorted. Although I haven't tried it I was sure the belt could be changed with the tank in situ. Next time don't forget the spare belt! Apart from the rain it was a good day & all credit to the organisers. Mick

Adrian You poor sod! Drive carefully??!! Mick

Sorry Peter, forgot to mention that the oxygen feedback rate needs to be reduced to zero at the ECU. Mick

Mav If you think about it, when you remove the filter (which is lower than the tank) most of the oil will drain, except what's below the lower hose (teacup?). Bearing in mind there'll be 6 litres plus going in, the final dilution will be 99.5% fresh oil; so why worry? Mick

Tom No big deal really: 1. You need to remove the rad to fit the rack. 2. Remove the flares. 3. Remove wing/light brackets. 4. Decide on how you'll fill the holes. I used interior trim buttons which are painted to match. 5. T-cut the side skins to get rid of any marks. 6. Fit the new brackets & drill wings (2.5" back from leading edge wing & 3.5" apart)/brackets. 7. Fit headlamps/indicators to new brackets with wiring inside the tubing. 8. Disconnect upper steering column clamp. 9. Put key in ignition to imobilise steering lock & pull off upper column. Often needs a lot of positive pressure to remove! 10. Fit new column (may need to replace top column bush) 11. Drill wheel to fit boss. Or get someone to do it who's done it before. Tips: 1. To fit the bracket over the stub axel turn the wheels. 2. Drill the fibreglass very slowly & ideally through the gel-coat 1st. Place masking tape over the gel before drilling. 3. Use something (like a rubber grommet cut in half) to insulate the wing retaining bolts. Or glue them on. 4. Get someone, who's done it before, to drill the steering wheel. Torque settings: 1. Steering rack to chassis 5-7 ft/lbs 2. Track rod ends 20-25 ft/lbs 3. Top wishbone/front upright 20-25 ft/lbs 4. Stub axels 40-45 ft/lbs. Remember to use half thickness nuts. Good luck Mick

So once you've removed the catalyst you can safely remove the lambda probe. While you're at it why not remove the charcoal canister & all the other gubbins that goes with it (weight reduction etc.). Mick

To clean the grill just put it in the dish-washer. Worked for me & I didn't bother to sand it down either. Still looks good 12 months on. Another thing fit some mesh behind the grill to stop stones holing the rad. Mick