WobblyWeb

Hi Andrew Back for seconds.......I'll also take the 'Starter Button' if that is still available, and perhaps it can go in the same package? I've PM'd you too! WW

Hi, I'll take the Caterham 'K' series Apollo Tank mounting plates new(side and base) and New Brake light switch please. I'll PM you. WW

See this recent Techtalk thread for Go-Race provenance: https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/new-qr-boss-thoughts posts 4 & 5

Hi David Not sure where you are with 'mph' (above) and his DM, and don't want to trespass, but I'll certainly take them if they're still available after that, and can collect. WW

Hi Andy I'll take it! I'll send you a PM. WW

Rob, I had the opposite conundrum when I fitted a replacement Caterham branded aluminum radiator to my 1996 1400 K series. The new radiator had the small spigot for a vent tube (to the expansion tank), the original radiator of the early design, didn't. The solution for me was to update my vent plumbing and introduce a tee-piece into the vent tube from the engine (manifold/head) to the expansion tank, and connect the vent from the Rad to that tee, with some new hose. Result - no more K series air locks on refill or ever! Presumably you could do the reverse? Remove the tee in the tubing to the expansion tank, and just have a single run of vent tube from the expansion tank to the engine? Then on refill bleed the system the old-school way as detailed at length in the archives (Peter Carmichael had the definitive solution - Jack the front up, disconnect top hose from Rad, back-fill engine and system through top hose, and top up and bleed via bleed-tee that needs to be fitted next to heater top hose, if you have a heater (at highest point in the system) - lots in the archives. When I researched the fitment of my new Rad I did noticed that some members had improvised a vent into an un-vented K series Rad with appropriate adaptor sleeve between the Rad and the Fan switch so as to allow a vent outlet. Perhaps you could do this as an alternative, to keep your current vent plumbing, and someone else can advise what you need for that?

Anker Is it like this? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wipac-S3915-Reverse-Light-Lens-Land-Rover-Triumph-Austin-Series-210/164389587457?hash=item2646620a01:g:n9MAAOSw-3NfZNE8 Ww

Hello, I'll take it off your hands, for my 1.4K! PM on the way.

If it's not the most probably brake pads, shims, pins, sticking caliper pistons, caliper-to-upright bolt-check, and the same bolt-check on the front suspension - my left-field suggestion is..... the engine mount has failed! I had something similar a million years ago on my Triumph Herald. Rubber split/un-bonded (mount looked fine visually) allowing intermittent metal to metal (engine to chassis) vibration under braking or turning. Suggest Caterham substitute a new engine mount on the LHS or frankly, both. Check the Gearbox one too I would suggest. Easy to do, just need a jack and a socket set. ww

Nothing to do with me, but there's a black screen surround on ebay currently, seller in Milton Keynes (£10 postage) £59: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CATERHAM-SUPER-7-WINDSCREEN-FRAME-ASSEMBLY/184459704609?hash=item2af2a7b921:g:EFsAAOSwnr5faw9d

Hi Barry, I trust you're out of quarantine and it's all fixed? I have a under dash handbrake, but I think the answer is more fundamental or generic? On probability, either the cable has detached from the lever, or the inner cable has broken somewhere along its length or at an end. It's a two part cable, I think, so you might have lost the clevis pin at the joint (under the transmission tunnel near the Diff) between the two? It might alternatively have pulled out of the plastic knurled nut adjuster, under the car near the diff too. If you have the time, investigate, if not, speculatively buy replacement cables from Redline, and hope it's not the handle - which can distort and once remove from its mount, be persuaded back into original profile so as to accept and retain the cable end, with some mole grips. Whilst it is off check and grease the thumb-push ratchet mechanism - you can withdraw it from the handle outer. I think the assembly guide recommends three or four clicks to lock the back wheels in operation, from fully home. WW

Hello jpath8, I've send you a PM re: the 4 anthracite wheels/tyres. Mike

Hi, I'll take it if it's an imperial chassis 'Caged' Roadsport rollcage with single diagonal in the roof (not double-D)/curved bars you refer to over the doors/double-diagonal bracing behind the seats/deeper imperial chassis mount above the rear dampers? I'm coincidentally in your area but only tomorrow, Sunday 19 Feb. PM sent with my mobile number - I'll be away from internet/email access from 08.00 tomorrow, so if you see this after that, but tomorrow, please give me a call. WW

Jonny YHM, Mike

Hi Jonathan I'm interested and have sent you a PM. Michael

Hi Thanks for the suggestion and understand. Initially I'll hold out for the three-for-two swap I think and post a new item in Wanted or For Sale in a couple of weeks, and take some pictures of my wheels for that.

Hi, just replied to SIG7 wanted ad for a pair of 8". Looking to swap my two 8" for three 6", but if that's not likely I would be interested in a single wheel or split a pair?

Hi SIG7 I have a pair, on the back of my 1400SS, hopelessly over-tyred, but look good! In the first order of priority I'd like to swap these TWO for THREE 13" x 6" Anthracite wheels - someones rears + spare, as having staggered widths renders the spare potentially inappropriate, and I use the car for touring and want it back on 6" all round and to carry a spare. At a glance they look mint, but both have witness-mark grooves behind from the fabled road stone/dedion ear or roll bar drop link clearance issue on early dedion cars. No longer happens. Paint has lifted and blisters/flaked off in this area. Noticed recently some paint distress lines in a couple of the spokes on the outer faces too. Not curbed. They are wearing new/essentially new Falken ZIEX ZE-912 205/60/13 86H. Only list 1A tyre available in this size I believe. Well they will on Monday, one incurred a side-wall puncture yesterday, hence renewed interest in carrying a spare. Use as they are and they look fine, or refurbish/repaint. Can take pics. I'm in Canterbury, Kent. The 7 is my only car so logisitics imply a simultaneous swap/meet to achieve exchange. Need to keep it rolling. Mike

Caterham do this kit: wide track tie rod kit When I went wide-track ('95 dedion) the wide-track tie rod extensions gave extremely excessive toe-out when fitted. Caterham recommended cutting down the rack's tie rods to suit. I had to cut about 20mm of thread off each tie rod to achieve in-service tracking adjustment at the extension-to-tie rod junction! When you work out what you have to cut off the tie rod, and what you gain once extensions are fitted, then look at the short amount of thread the extensions put into the tie rod ends (about 11mm from memory), I could have just wound-out the tie rods from the ends without cutting them and without fitting extensions and still achieved +11mm overlap! As standard I had about +30mm of thread into the tie rod end. Something to check if you are converting a pre-96.5 dedion to wide-track before getting out the hack saw. Apparently later racks had shorter standard tie rods necessitating extensions. Contemplating the above kit one day as it's irritating to think I could have avoided the extensions (which are quite heavy)! ww I Edited by - WobblyWeb on 1 Sep 2013 17:07:43

Just wanted to say how much I enjoyed my first sprint as a Class 1 clubman novice on Sunday, thank everyone involved in the organisation and in particular everyone who offered encouragement and advice beforehand and on the day and extended such a warm welcome. I feel like I made a lot of new friends and despite the loss of two timed runs to spins 😔 firmly hope to enter the SC next year! Mike (502)

CaterBram thanks for the MSA link and BM this afternoon. MSA licence applied for and receipt obtained. L7C Curb 2 Application submitted on-line. I will phone club office tomorrow with card details for payment. Count me in 😬 1400 K for Class 1.

Cheers Simon, I understand. Had a little read of the championship regs too - I didn't want to compromise future status as a 'novice' if I entered the championship properly in the future, but I see you've got that covered in the regs! I'll print an MSA application form this coming week and sent off to them with a cheque. Wobbly

Hello All I would like to enter in Class 1 as a one-off event this year, not as part of the championship, just as a L7C member, but the form on-line will not take my entry details without 'MSA licence number and grade' - and I don't have one, and don't need one for a non-championship Curborough 2 entry?? Best to ring Sam? WW

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7seven7 YHBM re: collector WW