WobblyWeb

Parcel received in one piece! Many thanks.

Hi Geoff YHBM. Posted today! WW

Hi Chris........I didn't, and I couldn't find any lbs markings on the rear springs once removed. I knew I had original 1995 dampers and springs on the car. The rear springs were entirely painted yellow (the fronts were entirely black). I still have the original springs (fronts and backs) in a box. I spent too long on BC and eventually came across a thread where there was mentioned that in-period early K series (1.4s) were fitted with whatever rear springs Caterham had in stock.......rear springs for the contemporaneous and heavier Vauxhall engined cars, and a mention of 'yellow 180lbs rears'! Looking at the yellow rear spring girth/thickness of coil wire, it is considerably thicker than the 150lbs fronts, so must surely have a stiffer rate? I don't have the thread hyperlink to hand, but if I ever re-find it I'll post here.

Hi All and thanks for your feedback. I agree on the Springs, all four of mine from Faulkner, great service, advice, price etc. I think I'll go down the refurbished Bilstein route, and have just got off a call to them. Last week on Thur/Fri their number was being answered by a voice mail to the effect that it was unable to take more messages. New week, and it's fine, Bilstein Service Department, Meridian Business Park, Unit 7 Vitruvius Way, Leicester LE19 1WA Tel: 0116 289 8345 (then press 2 for service - 'service shop') They said nominally £85+VAT per damper, plus optional nominal £40+VAT per damper for striping the unit down, blasting and powder coat, by their preferred third party. 2-3 weeks for each of these two processes separately, 4-6 combined. They can re-bush the end eyes for a small extra, as it's not included in the standard service - they ask for a covering letter detailing the service required and a contact number/return address. So somewhere around £300/pair including VAT: stripped, blasted, repainted, rebuilt to spec, re-bushed. Plus return postage. Just called back to confirm that it is only the damper body they need and it is. If customers send their dampers with springs and spring seats assembled, that's fine, and it only takes them minutes to remove, though will drive up the postage by virtue of the weight of the springs! WW

Looking for a working pair of rear dampers for a pre 1996 K series dedion. Ideally Bilstiens, if anyone has a pair still lying around after upgrading? Open to other makes/brands too. Don't actually need the springs or platforms, though would be interested in complete units if easier. They're shorter than the 1996 onwards Bilstiens, and they mount through the dedion, not below it, and had non-progressive springs - which is the easiest way to differentiate them visually. I can't identify a Caterham part number.......and they don't seem to be listed on their website and Redline can't get them, and say Caterham don't want to approach Bilstien for another batch. My dedion tube is in fine health otherwise, so loathed to go that route. Mine are old/high miles and have lost their capacity to damp rebound, but otherwise serviceable, so any recommendations on where to reliably get them serviced also appreciated. Road use only currently rears have 125lbs springs down from 180 new. Fronts are much younger! I believe The Nitron equivalents are the same for both pre and post 96, with a spacer the only difference?

Funds transferred and PM sent! WW

Hi Geoff I have one, well two, but only one fixing rim, so yes I have a spare 7" bowl without rim. They were chrome, I had then blasted/satin black powder-coated, and in the process one of the rims was apparently distorted - now recycled, as I couldn't make it fit. I didn't refit them after PC, as it was a catalyst for 'upgrading' to 5 3/4", so they are pretty mint. You're welcome to the solo bowl, or indeed the lot, only for the cost of postage. Let me know and I'll get a P&P price. WW

Hi Clubdrk, yes interested - PM sent! WW

Thanks for the pics wild bill. Confirm they are for post '96.5 chassis, so will regretfully pass. ww

Hi Bill, the Dampers etc., imperial, but could you give indication of model year these are from? Assume post '96.5 model year - Rears mount to underside of DeDion Tube, Fronts to separate top mount (not combined with wishbone)? I'm after pre '96.5 m/y. WW

Navigate around this site, reassuringly expensive - Spa Mirror mounts, to Caterham screen sanctions and Caged roll cage: drp Spa Mirror Mounts

Hi Paul I'd be interested in: One Tillett seat fitting kit new & unopened £5 - if you could you make an exception and post to me for +P&P? PM sent. Mike

Not to me........so still looking.

Hi Nick Thanks for the photos. I'll take them! Email sent to you separately. Mike

Hi Richard, yes I do. They're off of 1995 Arch chassis 1400 K series S3. They have about 45000 miles of road use, and a lick of Hammerite, over road-rash, on them. I bought new replacements from Caterham, as it was easier, and debatably cheaper, than refurbishment/replacing the bushes etc. I've kept all replaced narrow-track, and general suspension replacements, with the car, but because they're like-for-like, and therefore identical, you can have them for the price (see what I did there) of postage. I bought my Roadsport cage from your son, and he threw in the mechanical fixings, so I feel almost obligated, and curious as to what you'll do, and win, with them?!

Hi Ben YHM. Interested if Dan, or Paul, has not taken it.

Mike Brotherwood has one listed in Parts for L7 S3 on his website, scroll down to Brake Parts: http://www.mikebrotherwood.com/Parts.html 'Hand Brake Lever for 11 and 7, can be modified for Mk 6' - there's a pic to look at.

From the first pic it looks like your filler neck still has the safety flap in it. Now it's off the car (or easy to take off again) it's worth removing, if you have trouble at the pumps.....? Lots in the archives: /forum/techtalk/aero-fuel-filler-flap-removal

I encountered the same issue on my K when I bought a new all-ali Rad from Caterham (it came with the spigot not on my old steel Rad) and I used an 8mm brass (in preference to plastic) tee to allow you to join both the bleed spigot from the new Rad, and the existing bleed from the inlet manifold, together, and thence into the header tank. You'll need some suitable hose from the header tank to the tee and tee to the Rad, and some clips. That's what I run - self-bleeds air from the top of the Rad. There are some threads on this in the archives I think, and general advice not to go with plastic tees. Don't blank/block it up! Something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264529990988?hash=item3d9737554c:g:rrEAAOSwRu5dycjK Later car/header tank, but linked pic shows the tee: http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ezsrprWZa50/Te_dsnrkHrI/AAAAAAAAABQ/GA_NBLlhQ4A/s1600/2011+05+07_0417.jpg

Hi, the Boot cover looks like mine - standard Caterham issue circa 1996 to work with the 'towel rail' standard roll bar (note also the s/s poppers, and not having a pair of poppers each side of the 'flap' join). It obviously works with your S/D FIA bar and on my car of similar vintage works also with both the more contemporary imperial Caged FIA bar and also Caged Roadsport Cage. You can see someone has tucked the vinyl under cover, just on the outside of the base of the roll bar (there might be a fixing point that needed removing to do that). No problem as a work-around. Might look dated on newer car (thinking black poppers on hood etc) and pair of popper studs on body for flap-joints?

Yes. The leather skins have lips that simply tuck over the edges of the plastic seat-backs. I found mine were glued at the base of the back where this happens but just not glued elsewhere. Just get your fingers or a wide-blade chisel in there and have a go to separate them with a gentle but firm effort. I got the glue to give up where there was some and didn't use any on reassembly. Just like rolling up your jeans I found you could adjust tension on the leather skins on reassembly by rolling the edges of the skins over once before tucking around the plastic seat-back. Follow the instructions about the positioning of the cable ties on the seat back. Both seat frames were cracked where the back tubes joins the base tubes. Once the frames were exposed I found that my seat frames had minor differences that I attributed to an apparent design modification at some point (I found reference in Blatchat archives on S-seats to a 'CDX' modification - I think that's a reference to a point in time also associated with that model of Caterham). Essentially if your seat frames don't have the small upright tube you see in photo 6 as a form of gusset tube triangulation reinforcement to the back/base junction - ask your welder to add them. With weld repairs make sure the weld is ground flush on the underside of the frame when it mates against the seat runners. My headrests were retained by a device that was a plastic coated wire. They had distorted and dropped out. If you have those (they changed the detail later) I replaced with a short length of suitable diameter fuel hose located with nylon number-plate bolts screwed into each end. Gives the headrest tube a soft squeeze. I also bought plastic end caps for the headrest tubes to stop them squeaking on the bracket below. If that sounds obscure it will be clearer when you have the seats apart. I also found the hole locations to mount the frames to the runners were slightly different from seat to seat so they are essentially bespoke to their respective runners - if you swap them from over driver/passenger side I would have needed to do the same with the runners.

These instructions/guide supplied by Oxted Trimming the seat makers. They do a refurb kit. Jo Mitchell, Customer Service and Sales Manager, tel: 01883 712112 Jo Mitchell <jo@oxtedgroup.co.uk>

SBFS do a half-hood for an SLR cage with windscreen combo - attached to the poppers on the top of the screen. https://www.softbitsshop.co.uk/slr-cage-weather-set-708-p.asp

Hi Andrew Back for seconds.......I'll also take the 'Starter Button' if that is still available, and perhaps it can go in the same package? I've PM'd you too! WW

Hi, I'll take the Caterham 'K' series Apollo Tank mounting plates new(side and base) and New Brake light switch please. I'll PM you. WW