Gun Bunny
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Everything posted by Gun Bunny
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The "nuts & bolts you didn't touch" are supported in bushes that join the A frame to the chassis, yes they do wear but not anything like the bushes under the differential. As SM25T mentioned check your radius arm bolts, but these tend to make a noise under acceleration rather than cornering. The clunk you mention could be the half shaft walking out of its bearing, very common on an Ital live axle. Stand at the side of your car grab the roll bar & vigorously rock the car sideways a couple of times in quick succession, this will induce the clunk caused by a loose half shaft bearing if you have one. Olly Put live axle clunk into the Google site search in the red band at the top of the page
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These are on ebay, nothing to do with me. Olly https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Two-Weller-5-5J-13-Formula-Ford-Wheels-No-Reserve/294100970000?hash=item4479c8aa10:g:pQAAAOSwNhJgaHIK
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Barry Had a similar problem years ago on my XFlow, it would not re start after refuelling or other short stops & it was the carbon brush inside the distributor cap had almost worn away. Olly
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https://www.burtonpower.com/water-union-3-8-npt-90-deg-elbow-fp478.html
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Ford-Water-Outlet-Elbow-484835-NOS/333443704573?hash=item4da2cb26fd:g:oqYAAOSwv9Jd-yR~
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JOINT-WATER-FORD-ESCORT-MONDEO-FIESTA-ORION-TRANSIT-03126-6148087-6733022-/253653403434
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ESCORT-1-3i-THERMOSTAT-HOUSING-OHV-HCS-ENGINES-BRAND-NEW-1995-2001/251958942442?fits=Model%3AEscort&epid=15026526599&hash=item3aa9ec5aea:g:ELAAAOSwpKRdDhbn
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Ford-Thermostat-Water-Outlet-Connector-6814635-/182408227659
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Thanks Stephen mine arrived this morning, also glad i upped size to XL. Olly -
nothing to do with me. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ital-marina-halfshafts/222702209661?hash=item33da160a7d:g:-IoAAOSw7GRZDvRy
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Thanks Elie, was looking to try & retain the expensive Raceline mounting I already have with a smaller alternator.
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Has anyone fitted the light weight Denso type alternator with internal fan to the black top Zetec engine. Im currently running the original Xflow alternator on a Raceline mounting but need something smaller. Olly
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CATERHAM-SUPER-7-SPRINT-CENTER-WHEEL-HUB-CAP-DOMED-STICKER-CATERHAM-SUPER-7-/182168569687?var=&hash=item2a6a17c757:m:m-HKmUMwpxW6CDKrYxv0RWw
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Thanks John It was the force required fitting the first stud last night that made me think I had better ask some questions before continuing with the remaining studs. Olly
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Thanks ECR, Rakeway have confirmed the hole is plain & the stud cuts its own way in. Olly
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Im looking at the wheel stud holes in a new Rakeway hub & slightly concerned that it does not have any serrations inside for anchoring the stud. Can anybody that’s fitted these hubs remember if it should be clean hole when the studs are initially fitted. Olly
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Have you checked the carburetors are not over tightened on the Thackery washers, Over tightening can cause foaming of the fuel in the float chambers that would not be helped by the build-up of temperature under the bonnet when sitting in traffic. Olly
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sm Yes the 4 speed requires a push down on the gear stick to engage reverse, as others have mentioned it has no spring mechanism to position the gear stick towards the 3rd-4th gear position as you get on 5 speed gearboxes.. olly
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The device forcing you to push down on the gear stick to engage reverse is removed from the gearbox tail housing when the 4 speed remote linkage is used. The remote linkage has its own reverse gear stop fitted under the remote gear lever that prevents accidental engagement of reverse. See section 10 of the build manual. Olly
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On the rear wheel hub measure the distance from the centre of a wheel stud to the centre of the opposing wheel stud. If its 3 ¾ inches you have an Ital axle. Olly
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Thanks Chris, but I think a used example is going to be more in my price range. Olly
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I am looking for a Quaife ATB differential for my Caterham which has an Ital axle. Olly
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Simon I was under the impression moving the mounting position of the bearing was the normal technique for shimmed hubs. Reference the reduced meshing, yes it is reduced, but if your half shaft is currently walking it will already be positioning the bearing against the seal collar when you exert a side load during cornering. The lip seals do not leak so I assume it still has sufficient ground surface to function correctly The gap between the drum edge & back plate is hardly visible. When I first experienced problems with half shafts walking, I unsuccessfully experimented with a machined spacer between the seal collar & the inner face of the bearing, but I couldn’t stop them cracking. Olly
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Photo showing bearing against the seal collar.
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From experience I would be looking more at the wheel bearing than the hydraulics. If the half shafts are walking along the bearing, the lip on the brake drum that never normally gets any contact will start making intermitent contact with the edge of the brake shoes. When the rear bearing becomes worn it will either rumble or squeal. Olly
