JampJ
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Everything posted by JampJ
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Thanks guys Cheers John
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BELGOM ALU is brilliant! Get it on Ebay. Flows really well and give a really good shine. I find WD40 is good for removing the black stuff before final polishing. Cheers John JFDI (Just F*****g Do It)
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Hi, I know it's not the correct subject, but I'm trying to find where Steve C got the Miss England sticker from on his 7 nose. Cheers John JFDI (Just F*****g Do It)
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Anyone bought a 7 club grey hooded fleece in large that they want to sell. The club has sold out. Cheers John Edited by - johnjulie on 17 Dec 2009 00:09:52
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Gearbox shaft to crankshaft spigot bearing, clutch release bearing, check flywheel starter ring teeth for wear. Check timing chain tensioner, Check for play in water pump. Remove head studs, clean and retap all threads in head (UNC). Also check engine threads, ie alternator adjusting bracket bolt hole, (quite often strips!). Thoroughly clean and repaint engine. Good Fun! Cheers John JFDI (Just F*****g Do It) Edited by - johnjulie on 7 Dec 2009 03:08:34
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Your's is the Ital one, as already stated, it comes supplied with a bleed nipple in case you need it. The pipe and nipple fittuing is the same. Cheers John' JFDI (Just F*****g Do It)
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I had pretty much the same problem, are you sure the brass bit is touching the lead bit on the bulb? I found that the bulb wasn't going in far enough to get a good contact on one of the bulbs. I ended up putting a bit of extra solder on the end. If you are getting the earth and volts, it must be a bad connection. Cheers John JFDI (Just F*****g Do It)
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Have you seen these? https://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=4267&osCsid=070cae90bfd82d84b61caca89491a251 Cheers John JFDI (Just F*****g Do It)
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I think you'll find the twist knot and standard wire brushes much more effective, the fillament wheels work, but are not very abrasive, and tend to be a little slow compare with a wire brush. The fillament brushes are more for cleaning and as a gentle abrasive, for removing paint etc without damaging the material. The chassis tubes are quite substantial and can withstand a high speed wire brush with no problems. Cheers John JFDI (Just F*****g Do It)
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Don't want to put a dampner on your ideas, but if you don't know much about the tools you mention, I wouldn't advise attempting to build a blueprint engine. I'd leave it to the experts. One mistake could cost a fortune. If you don't have knowledge of the required tools you will be struggling. Plus I can't imagine you will have the required machinery to do any machine work. Surely the person doing the machining will have all the tools necessary to supply the tollerances required. I'm not quite sure what you will be doing that needs tools of such accuracy. Back to the question, as Roger already states, you get what you pay for. Mitutoyo are excellent, and can readily be found on Ebay. Cheers John JFDI (Just F*****g Do It)
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Hi, just wanted feedback from people who have used Poly bushes instead of standard rubber. Did you notice any difference? Do they last longer? Cheers John JFDI (Just F*****g Do It)
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Or you could try Speedy Cables Cheers John JFDI (Just F*****g Do It)
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And if it's a live axle, the Haynes Ital w/manual will be useful for the back axle. Cheers John JFDI (Just F*****g Do It)
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Or you could invest in one of these: http://www.carcoon.com/ Cheers John JFDI (Just F*****g Do It)
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It may be a Ford Fiesta MK 1 item Cheers John
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Get a CTEK3600, better than the Accumate, it will charge from flat and recondition the battery. Cheers John JFDI (Just F*****g Do It)
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"Are you Experienced ?" 1700 Crossflow Questions
JampJ replied to hendrixswhitestrat's topic in TechTalk
If the exhaust stains are really bad, you can use welders stainless steel pickling paste! It's a very strong acid (read safety blurb!!) and will shift anything off the pipes. But they will need polishing afterwards as it leaves a clean but dull finish, ideal for polishing. Green scouring pads and metal polish are a good start, before the final polish, Best of all take them off and get them mirror finished at a decent polishing shop. It's really a matter of keeping on top of them, as no matter what you do, they will discolour. Maybe get them ceramic coated!! Cheers John JFDI (Just F*****g Do It) Edited by - johnjulie on 21 Oct 2009 09:18:58 -
IT'S EXACTLY M3 JFDI (Just F*****g Do It)
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Are the mechanical type (not electrical) available with CATERHAM written on the face? All the other gauges on my car have Caterham on the face apart from the oil pressure. I'd like one to match the rest. Caterham do not show one in the stores list, just wondered if they were ever available and has anyone got one spare? Cheers John JFDI (Just F*****g Do It)
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One thing you need to be really careful of at this time of year, is condensation! Also do not spray if it's cold, as it can cause blooming ( a milky discolouration) You can buy PANEL WIPE for cleaning all the surfaces first, all the car paint factors sell it. Using spray cans is quite an expensive way to go, as they only put a very thin coat on. The more you use, the easier it gets, speed and distance from the panel is very important. Make sure you have plenty of light too, what looks ok in the garage light, may look awful in broad daylight. Good luck! John JFDI (Just F*****g Do It)
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All a bit confusing! Have you tried shorting the solonoid terminals? If that works ok, you are not getting power or earth to the solonoid, or the solonoid is faulty. Cheers John JFDI (Just F*****g Do It)
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It's a 3D kit--- K97015,is that wasted spark? As it worked ok before, I'd like to find out why it's not now. If I can connect direct to the coil, at least that will prove the tacho is working ok. Cheers John JFDI (Just F*****g Do It)
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Thanks for the reply Peter, but I don't think the resistor is the problem here, as it has worked fine for quite some time. The tacho isn't rising in relation to the increased revs, but tends to stay around 500 rpm and will jump about if the revs are quickly increased. Can I take a feed straight from the coil to the tacho? I don't see why a new feed has been taken from the ECU. Cheers John JFDI (Just F*****g Do It) Edited by - johnjulie on 15 Sep 2009 08:17:40
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Tacho did work ok, now only reads approx 500rpm does move slightly when revs increased with occasional rise and fall. Any ideas? Has anyone a more detailed diagram than supplied with the kit. I have yet to contact Weber. Cheers John JFDI (Just F*****g Do It)
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Careful before you buy a 234, it does require piston mods. Call Kent for a free Kent Cams catalogue, and it will give you the details. If your engine has done a high mileage, it maybe a good time for a rebuild up to 1700 spec. Cheers John JFDI (Just F*****g Do It)