alcal
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Everything posted by alcal
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I see from my service book that I should change the clutch fluid in my Sigma 140 every two years. Any tips for doing this ? Access to the bleed nipple looks bleeding tight from above and below. Is it me or the search facility on this site that's completely useless ?
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Some of the white plastic threaded mounting posts have broken off the instrument bodies. Looking at the design I'd guess this is not uncommon. Does anyone know of a fix, short of replacement ? Thanks
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Just an update. The new cap seems to have fixed it. Thanks to all who contributed. Alan C.
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Hello Again, Probably a daft question. I've fitted the new cap and like the old one it doesn't tighten. It clicks and carries on clicking as I try to tighten it. Is this normal?
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New cap ordered.
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I should have mentioned that it has the brass T piece and silicone hoses which all seem good. A couple of people have suggested the expansion bottle cap as a possible culprit and I'm wondering if there is a way of telling if this is the case? It looks ok and there is no sign of streaks down the sides of the bottle although the horns underneath it are quite rusty!
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Thanks all I've looked in the places suggested but no sign of a leak. I should have said it has an alloy rad. My next move will probably be to get it on a ramp when it's really hot and running and have a good look around. Could it be the head gasket allowing coolant into a cylinder without contaminating the oil?
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Hello All, I've owned a Roadsport with the 140 upgrade for 2 years and throughout this time its has been losing a small amount of coolant - about a third of a pint every 500 miles. 7s&Cs pressure tested the system and pronounced it ok. There is no trace of water in the oil or oil in the water. There is no obvious leak and I am mystified! Has anyone else experienced this or got any ideas? Thanks
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I had balance problems with both CR500s and ZZSs on 13" Superlights. Having read here that the centre hole is not always perfectly central on these wheels I had them balanced using a tool which is bolted to the wheel using all 4 studs and then mounted on the balancing machine. I was told that this is the way some Peugeot wheels are done as they don't have central holes. The result was a significant improvement.
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According to my handbook Caterham recommend both 5W/30 and 5W/50. I think they call the 5W/50 "race" oil.
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After a recent service when 5W/50 oil was used I noticed a light metallic tapping noise coming from the top end. This starts about 10 seconds after the engine is started, lasts for about 20 seconds and then disappears. I changed the oil to 5W/30 and the noise is much reduced.The engine has done c. 9000 miles including 2000 since the 140 upgrade was fitted. Has anyone else experienced this or know what the cause is ? Thanks
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Just had a close shave at the test centre with my Sigma 140. It failed on the first attempt but passed second go when the tester held the revs. at exactly 2500. The tester speculated that Caterham may have mapped it to do this - does anyone know if this is the case ? There is a slight leak/blow at the cat/silencer joint. Could this affect the test? Thanks
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I have the same arrangement as BigCol. Having just measured the OD of the Tee piece ( tricky when in-situ ) I'd say it's 19mm.
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I had this. The gap had been set to 1.15mm. When I adjusted it to 0.95mm it was fine.
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Thanks all . I got no reply from K&N and Demon Tweeks haven't got any and don't think they are being made. Looks like I'm sticking with the 6 inchers or trying to find a s/hand pair.
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Are these available anywhere ? (Caterham only list black ones). Should I be looking for s/hand ones ? Thanks
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I had this on my 5 speed. Sevens & Classics changed the oil for a lighter grade (SAE 75 ?) and that fixed it.
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I've noticed small specks of graphite grease appear to be escaping from the ends of both outboard driveshaft gaitors after high speed runs. (deposited on u/s arches and inside wheels). The gaitors look to be in good condition. Has anyone come across this ? Is it possble to tighten the retaining clips ? Any thoughts appreciated.
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Would reccommend inserts for Tillets. I found the leather seats on my last car lacked lumber support and have overcome this by adding foam between the inserts and the current Tillet. You can "tune" the seat like this for optimum support/comfort. They look good too..
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It's a 5 speed type 9 Jonathon. Even though it's under waranty I'd rather not take it back unless I thought the clutch might become contaminated and would be interested to hear if anyone has experienced this.
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Just had a look under my recently bought 3 year old car and there is a small leak from what seems to be the join between the gearbox and bell-housing. I'm not sure if it's engine or gearbox oil but the drip on the casing was clean and greenish leading me to suspect gearbox. Should I be concerned ? There is a silicone bead around the join - is that normal ? Grateful for any advice.
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I'm keen to get some of this on my newly painted rear arches and also around the doors. Does anyone know of an outfit in Kent they would reccommend to do this ? Alternatively is this something I could do myself ( I'm a reasonably competent d.i.y. bodger) ? I see pre-cut kits are available from Premier Paint Guard but the double curvature around the arch edges looks tricky. Any advice gratefully received...
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3.9 open diff. c. 4000 miles, in excellent condition. Offers to : Alan, 01227 472005
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3 in 1 oil works well and lasts about a year between applications
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Thanks All. I'll try some 50 F9s in it with BP7ES plugs and see what happens. Could wrongly set float levels cause the sooty plugs ?
