wild bill
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Everything posted by wild bill
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You were heading off to the Crockerton Meet and i was the loaded Splitty coming down the A36 near Warminster returning from 3 weeks in France. I did flash but you were already past
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I get exactly the same whistle at speed but from my back end
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This owner here has 10 x 13 and they don't exceed the arches afaics. Won't there be some fouling and if not how is that achieved? I only ask because a frippery in me would quite like to move from 7in to 8in 13's but when i tried 8in they came out beyond the edge of the wing so i ran with 7in. (97 car with de dion) Someone enlighten me please. (and yes i've done searches and read everything about offsets but still don't want to order any wheels as i just KNOW i'll get it wrong as the posts leave me more confused than before)
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Thanks everyone for the advice and help. Currently up early with 2yr old whils everyone sleeps but as soon as the lazy so and so's get up I shall get back to it. A Sunday blat now in the offing
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I have succeeded finally next question is....having read further up the post do I need to replace the nut as mh says its a one torque bolt so I assume I need to order another nut? Oh and I'm posting late not because I'm sad but I've been watching a film with a couple of very attractive ladies and I've been distracted!
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Dave I've done that and it still won't budge. ☹️ it really is tighter than tight as they say. No sevening for me this weekend until I can get in to the garage next door when the guys return from trialling on Tuesday
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The crank pulley is 125 the alternator pulley is the cosworth 64 mm pulley as Rob says (he built the engine). Old alt out in 15 mins but does that pulley nut want to come undone does it hell I,ve tried everything I can think of without risking the pulley now I am stumped.
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Thanks Rob I'll check, don't worry I will be leaving the crank pulley well alone. Hopefully it will all be straightforward. Hope all is good with you
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The word worm and can spring to mind 😬 I will be leaving the crank pulley as is as I see no reason to change it. The answer would seem to be changing the alt pulley as per DJ suggestion I imagine a different size belt may be required but I assume I can change out the alternator this weekend then fit the newer pulley when it arrives. Tell you what though this conversation beats clubbing or the pub..........oh hang on
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Ok Dave changing pulleys seems like a good option whatever the prob Is it a Cc part? What size is the cosworth pulley?
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In response to Micks BM pulleys are 125 and 64 mm (actually more like 130) taking the wire out of its wrap will be a bigger pain as its wrapped with a few others ☹️ biggest obstacles to removal will be the lower wishbone bolt and the oil cooler pipes which run close by. A voltage check first then well see.
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Ok I'll check the pulley size tomorrow revs are set for soft cut at 7200 (I'm not a racer and wanted longevity) so I'd be surprised if over revving was the issue. Aside from this is the removal straightforward or are there any tricks I need to know such as engine mount removal or some such? Thanks for the info so far, it's like an online Haynes manual. Edited to say I realise that the pulley size will affect the revs received irrespective of engine revs so my first job is to check pulley sizes and come back Edited by - wild bill on 4 May 2012 19:52:41
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Hatter are you saying that the alternator may be failing because of the pulley wheel and trigger disc size? My replacement alternator is the same unit as is in there. My theory was that the position of the alt meant that it was to easily soaked when driving in wet weather. I'll check pulley sizes but the set up is tha same as Dave Jackson and rob walker run I think and they seem to run ok without problems, or maybe an alternator every three years is normal?
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Not sure hatter as view hidden at mo until I get the nose off tomorrow.
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No it's on the passenger side and another thought is could it be a shorted relay draining the battery and making the no charge light come on rather than a failed alternator
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Right, alternator has packed up again ( second time in three years) I have a new spare ready to fit. I may have access to next doors ramp tomorrow. I know it's straightforward to replace but it looks very tight to remove any pointers before I start getting grazed knuckles? I've got a nasty feeling someone will be along to say its an engine out job. The position of the alternator is not great and must lend itself towards making reliability an issue so any suggestions to help with this. In all my other vehicles I have never had to replace an alternator ( or dynamo for that matter) Advice gratefully received
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I use David Bannach's 'Decibels' as an i phone app and it's accurate as a home test, haven't tried drive bys for induction noise but static noise test has been accurate. It will at least give you an idea as to whether you are in with a chance of passing the static or not.
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incidentally following Duncans post and my own is it illegal to not have side mirrors or at least one side mirror or can you drive legally with just a rear view mirror? Just googled and it seems unless you are a goods vehicle or seven seater a rearview mirror is legally sufficient Edited by - wild bill on 4 Apr 2012 16:26:24
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If you are using your mirrors properly (i mirror glance almost like blinking it seems but its now a habit) and you always do a lifesaver you won't get taken by surprise....ever. I have never had an issue in 8 years of Sevening (97 car) have Caterham changed something to make matters worse? In fact on the one or two occasions when i have run without doors (and therefore side mirrors) i haven't found it a problem
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I am in North Somerset and would like to get my car properly set up and checked. Whilst i have done it myself up til now i'd like a pro job done. The nearest to me that i know of is Millwoods but they are an hour and a bit away. Before i book them is there anyone nearer to Warminster (Shaftesbury or Devizes etc) POBC appreciated
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I run with high pressure pump, fuel regulator and no return line as per Rob Walker on 2.3 duratec and have no problems. Works very well. I seem to remember it being easy ish to fit and I know nothing about mechanicals really
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Pendennis It has the jenvey throttle linkage, i thought the problem was how the cable arrived at that linkage but having read the posts my first action is to replace the cable and heatwrap to see if that is the main issue or not. (probably making no sense at all now!)
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Is the throttle cable a standard Duratec cable from CC, i assume so. I think my first task is to replace the cable and heat wrap. This may improve the response. If not it's fabrication time .......again
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Pendennis Thanks photos would be helpful but no hurry. I'll mail you my email address in a bit. First step is to replace cable and heatwrap as other than that my cable route appears to be the same as yours. Many thanks
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Pendennis sound the same as mine except no heat resist wrap which is probably/possibly part of the problem. I have seen the cable running across the rear of the engine but this necessitates more curves which i assume will exacerbate the prob. Doh Nut i'm too stupid to understand quite what you mean but i know someone who might. Except to say that the cable runs in to a bracket off the block then runs straight into the butterfly at the progressive connection point (if that makes sense) I'll spend the next week or 2 trying to figure. Any pictures of the run in to the butterfly (tricky position i know) would be helpful Edited by - wild bill on 11 Oct 2011 15:00:49
