wild bill

After a rebuild and going to a full screen I have the following items for sale. Can people please PM me if interested rather than posting on here and i'll send pics as necessary. I think the prices are more than fair having looked at the Caterham online store but you may think otherwise. Pair of standard half doors £225 Pair of perspex race aero screens left and right £80 Brooklands type stanchion handmade by arch to take said aero screens and drilled as such £100 Full set of non adjustable Bilstein dampers with springs (no idea of Lb and can't tell but they were standard as supplied by caterham on the S3 imperial chassis) £250 the whole set Upper steering column (New) £55 Steering column upper clamp set £20 SOLD Steering column universal joint (New) £60 SOLD Engine bay support diagonals (Pair used) £5 SOLD Postage additional where applicable other items by collection

I've seen you twice in tha last week and waved both times. You've waved back but no idea who you are. Nice seven

Thanks John for the links

OK I'll check this to see.

So whatever caused the breakdown was not relay related. As the car is now fine and i've effectively done nothing to fix it the whole thing is a mystery. Nothing looks loose that i can see. Other than swapping coil (which didn't resolve) and removing and reinstalling the same relays i've done nothing. Thanks for the diagram JK. Stu thanks for the EU clarification. I thought (possibly wrongly) that when i upgraded my car VHPD etc (i did a K series fettle first before going Duratec) that the Emerald ECU was remapped to EU3 by Dave Walker.

Provisionaly SOLD

If anyone else wants one i too have a spare 6 speed as i now have a 5 speed. I'll post a new topic too

Well interestingly it's difficult to find out what they all do due to overlap (it was explained to me and i glazed over because it was beyond my brain functionality) I do know that the bottom one is flashers so i'll try and work out what the other do but perhaps Caterham know? Car is a 1997 K series originally. EU3 i believe and the only loom changes were the actual plugs/connectors. The only loose wire is the defunct OP wire as i went mechanical after multiple sensor failures.

So there are actually 4 relays and after removing all of them one by one the car starts with none in So basically i am back to having absolutely no idea why the car stopped and now no way of finding out. Bl**dy kit cars

Yup John he's proper geeky old school and weird. Folicly challenged but with a pony tail and always in black and sporting an AC DC t shirt with a roly on the go BUT very good

So last night car is dead as a proverbial. This am I remove the middle relay (top and middle are the same) to get a part number. Wander in to garage an hour later and think i'll just turn the key and hey presto car starts so ignition relay must be the top one then, but middle relay is still out by my PC so indicators not working. Put middle relay back in and evrything is working. Problem is i'm now unsure of taking the car out as I do not want to breakdown again. I think the answer id to get a voltmeter diagnostic done on the fusebox/relay ignition system by someone who knows what they are doing.

It's so tight up there that i can't get a pic (despite numerous attempts). There are 3 relays 2 smaller of the same type and one large which seems to operate indicators and hazards (and probably some other stuff) The faulty relay is the middle of the three which is one of the smaller relays. It's pointless replacing them until i can narrow down where the short is

OK So in an idle moment i swapped the 2 relays (They are the same part) moving the top one to the middle relay position. Ignition on and fuel pump priming but then after putting the bottom relay back in the car is dead again. Taking bottom relay out again made no difference it's still dead again so I am now assuming that there is a short circuit knackering the ignition relay.

I did think relay might be a possibility. Everything works (lights, indicators hazards etc) but no ignition light. Relays are pushed in but might have failed. Loom is as it was when it was K Series as are fuses and relays. Been like that since transplant in 2009 with no issues.

Presumably if it was the position sensor i'd still get an ignition light and the fuel pump would prime but theres nothing happening until the key is turned and the starter tries. So no ignition light and no fuel pump. This leads me to suspect a failed barrel in some way.

I don't have an immobiliser on the car. The failure of a spring is a possible as all the spade connectors are intact. The car is running a 2.3 Duratec. It feels like an ignition barrel issue (i know i know a pointless observation) so possibly a replacement barrel. Luckily i live next door to Beckington Motors. They cant get to it until Tuesday so weekend stuffed but never mind i'll go and get the splitty started to keep my petrol fix alive. Bloomin frustrating. Perhaps i should do a course in vehicle electronics.

To answer those points 1) Yes it used to 2) No not for a long time 3) That would be like feeding strawberries to pigs. I might feel differently if i worked for NASA

Came to a stop last night, fortunately not far from home so car back in garage. Car suddenly lost power. Basically no cylinders receiving spark to fire as far as i can work out so far. The engine turns over fine but no ignition light and no whirring prime of fuel pump. Not the intertia switch (must get around to removing that soon) and as i had a spare coil i changed it just because it was quick and i had the time. Battery has plenty of power and i've charged it over night. No blown fuses so what else could i check?

Personally i don't have anything these days in terms of laptop that'll plug in. Also the ECU terminals are from before the ark. In addition when i have plugged in in the past i just don't get it it's like looking at chinese writing to me. I'm just not wired that way.

My car is 1997 k series now upped since 2009 to 2.3 duratec with Jenvey TB's. I kept the original ECU and Dave at emerald did the remap. The car is now not operating at it's peak and i have alot of pops and bangs on a trailing throttle. Car doesn't initially want to idle when starting from hot but after 5 mins or so it's back to OK. Rev counter is showing half actual (this might be the counter but i'll test this first) My thoughts are 1) Go to Dave at emerald and remap. It might be Lambda sensor related but as Dave cross threaded this in the primary originally and it hasn't been touched since he'll sort it i assume. However it's bloomin miles, and not convenient to get to at all. 2) Buy a new ECU (OMEX or as per reccommend) with someone nearer to Bath who can remap as necessary. Are there any other benefits? I'm no tech so i really have no knowledge in this area. Thoughts?

A question from a confused person Current tyres are 185 60 R13 front and 205 60 R13 rear Toyo R888's which i have had for a long time (different tyres same make) and have served me well. They last well they operate OK on the odd occasion i've been caught in rain. I need to change tyres Uniroyals dont offer these sizes and neither do Avon in ZZs. (185/55 and 215/55 Any opinions on next choice Toyo hard to find although feasible but is there something better for all year dry use? I presume there's been improvements in design and tech over the last couple of years? Yokohama? profile seems to be 70 not 60 which should be fine Any other contenders. I've got about 3 weeks to sort them out but i'm getting stumped in my research

shouldn't do Ian. I updated on Monday.

PS I live next to a garage so i borrowed theirs last time but rivnut fitting is not my favourite past time. I'll not tackle it until April i suspect unless i get really bored but atm i'm doing my job and all the domestics inc washing cooking and child rearing so spare time slightly tricky. I might try the rubber grommet route initially on a test piece and go that route if it works.

Ian, no message received as of this am? I keep checking Sorry

OOh Roger I like those. That might be worth a try. You can't beat a bit of rubber.....