Tony C

Thanks guys I see that perhaps, for some strange reason, the 'C' spanners I've seen advertised are measured by the dia of the threaded portion. Oh well! Cheers, Tony BRG SV kit. 😬 Back end up in the air

Anyone know where I can buy a pair of suitable 'C' spanners, the "nut" is 82mm OD. DT want 25 quid for an adjustable, which I think is a bit steep for a small device - tightwad or what? 😬 Thanks in advance, Tony BRG SV kit. 😬 Back end up in the air

Sorry to hear you have further woes Simon - don't throw it at Caterham too hard Understandably, you must be a little upset, I would be too. Cheers and good luck, Tony

FAND it! Thanks for the photo Graham, I'd never have found it without your help. Some 'nimrod' 🙆🏻 had fastened the stainless steel kick plate too far forward and was obscuring 90% of the boss. Thanks guys for your help. Off to Halfords again - I thought I had all the tools required until I came to fit the top rear shock bolt 3/8" allen key forsooth BRG SV kit. 😬 Back end up in the air

My SV build is coming along slowly, and while waiting for missing items (2 watt linkage rod ends and the rear 'A' frame bolt) am occupying my time with other bits and pieces. I am currently "uncertain of the location" of the Petty Strut boss. The passenger side panel has the four top rivets removed in the vicinity of the bottom of the dashboard frame. Have looked behind the panel, but all I can see is the vertical chassis tube and honeycomb panels. Is the boss IN the vertical chassis tube or welded to it, forward or aft? Cheers, Tony (doing the "Caterham Shuffle") BRG SV kit. 😬 Back end up in the air

Hi Chris, You shouldn't be asking a question like that today 😬 A sandwich plate, for your purpose, can be fitted between the engine and the oil filter housing. Various examples are available, with various threaded orifi - take your pick. Have a look at the "Think Automotive" website, they do a 'shedload' of them. Cheers, Tony BRG SV kit. 😬 Front end finished

Martin, A 3 year life from a battery is not uncommon. However, what symptoms is it showing, or perhaps not showwing, to give you the indication that it's 'dead'? BRG SV kit. 😬 Coming Saturday

Going to get my 7 armourfended at the factory when they do the PBC, but been advised that it's more obvious on dark paint colours. Any comments gratefullly received. I guess even if it is more obvious on dark colours, it would be less unsightly than stone chips. 😬 BRG SV kit. 😬 Coming Saturday

Check out the "Airflow" battery conditioner; available here BRG SV kit. 😬 Only six days away

Electrons flow out of the negative terminal of the battery, through the chassis/components in circuit and back into the positive terminal. Removing the negative lead stops electricity from leaving the battery. Chris is right - don't try for the tatoo BRG SV kit. 😬 Only six days away

Congrats' Colin. Brrmmm, brrmmm for real now 😬

Thanks a lot guys, much appreciate the suggestions; I'll get right on it. Cheers, Tony

Can any kind soul tell me where I can buy a 10ml bottle of 'Loctite 243' Threadlock. I've been driving myself nuts doing an internet search, nor can I see any of the genuine article in any stores. Not interested in any "This stuff is just as good". Cheers, Tony Gotta get my nuts locked 😬 Wait nearly over for my BRG SV kit. 😬 DELIVERY BROUGHT FORWARD, less than two weeks to go now - WHOOPEE

Just received my 52mm LED Cluster from Maplin yesterday and still trying to recover my eyesight after testing it with a 9v battery - Cor, it inarf bright Officially, 16000 min, 20000 typical mcd. With Post & Packing and VAT, the grand total was 12.47 😬 The item is made by "Kingbright" and can be viewed on their website - Part No. BL0307-50-44, S/No. OPA307. This item from Maplin is identical to those offered by DT and Merlin for a whole heap more money. The whole assembly is waterproof and the shielded mounting has an angled base with an 'O' Ring seal with two lugs for screws, plus an M4 screw thread in the centre for a further attachment. The viewing angle is 40 degrees. I might get another and fit one either side rather than centrally on the roll-over bar. In my opinion, this is a clear example of dog's danglies 😬 Wait nearly over for my BRG SV kit. 😬 DELIVERY BROUGHT FORWARD, less than two weeks to go now - WHOOPEE

Can any kind soul tell me the thread size of the brake bleed nipples fitted to the latest standard brakes - I assume they're the same size front and rear? Also I've seen various opinions concerning the source of the standard brakes fitted to new 7's, Ford Sierra? Front and rear? Tried-out that vacuum brake bleeding 'thingy' on a friends 7 and it works a treat - nice firm pedal. It doesn't affect the bleeding process, but the air leaking 'in' through the bleed nipple threads makes it a little difficult to see when a bubble free flow of fluid has been achieved. Thanks in anticipation, Tony Wait nearly over for my BRG SV kit. 😬 DELIVERY BROUGHT FORWARD, less than two weeks to go now - WHOOPEE

Don't worry, I'll talk to you Westy 😬 MAPLIN do a red 52mm LED cluster light which will make a 'blinding' rain/fog/brake light. I've just ordered one at 9.99 😬 Code: PD01B Description: BL0307-50-44 This item is EXACTLY the same as Item 17 in the DT Catalogue, Page 247. DT's price however is 48.90 Hope this helps. Waiting for my BRG SV kit. 😬 DELIVERY BROUGHT FORWARD, only two weeks to go now - WHOOPEE Edited by - Tony C on 16 Mar 2003 22:00:56

Done-up a readable Parts List for a "Think Automotive" sourced remote oil pressure sensor "kit". ('T' Piece specified for a NICE 😬 mechanical gauge with capillary tube). 28 quid the lot (without gauge and pressure switch), inc. VAT and postage. 😬 If anyone would like a copy, drop me an e-mail and I'll send you one. Cheers (No connection with "Think") Waiting for my BRG SV kit. 😬 DELIVERY BROUGHT FORWARD, only two weeks to go now - WHOOPEE

GOOD THREAD Thanks for all your help Chris W 😬

Thanks Paul/Mick, 😬 Can't argue with success Where can I get a wiring diagram, so many people have had similar problems, it must be worth a fiver for the fix. Thanks muchly Waiting for my BRG SV kit. 😬 DELIVERY BROUGHT FORWARD, only three weeks to go now - WHOOPEE

😬 Just to make absolutely sure there can be no understanding of my previous posting 😬. I consider that if a "fix" works, why argue about it. BUT, I'd really like to know why putting "another" relay in the start circuit cures the hot starting problem. I'm saying "another" relay because I consider the starter solenoid to be a relay - I thought that's what it did - allow a small current circuit to "make" a large current circuit. BTW, I notice that new starter/solenoid assemblies from Caterham have a postage stamp sized piece of heat shield try-wrapped around the solenoid. My humble belief is that the solenoid "mechanicals" or interior wiring/contacts might prove to be the hidden culprit, which the "extra" relay is masking - just my thoughts, you understand. Heat, vibration and corrosion are the "enemies" of electrical components. Sure, heating the exterior solenoid wiring and starter wiring won't help, but hmmmm, seems to be a bit odd to me.

"Don't knock it if it fixes the problem". But along with Chris W, I too would be interested in the reason why this mod. works. A relay on a relay just doesn't make much sense. I too consider this relay 'fix' to be perhaps masking the "real" problem.

By the way, Bernoulli used to work for a distillery; that's when he came-up with his theorem of fluid flow in pipes - MUST have been drunk then Waiting for my BRG SV kit. 😬 DELIVERY BROUGHT FORWARD, only three weeks to go now - WHOOPEE

I would like to state that I am not criticizing anybody here, just a general viewpoint. Not wanting to labour the point or anything 😬, but of what practical value is knowing your Cd? It's only use, at our level, is for comparison purposes, or perhaps to impress your friends by having a significantly lower Cd than their's 😬 Consider a standard 7, it has a Cd and a frontal area. If you replace the standard windscreen with an aeroscreen you will reduce Cd and frontal area. If, for instance, you now fair in the cockpit, Cd will decrease, but not frontal area. There's a WHOLE lot more to the Total Drag of a 7 than those two characteristics. The practical suggestion of establishing a base value of rate of slowing down and then making a physical change to the car and carrying-out the same slowing down test will tell you if the change(s) you made are worthwhile. Anything other than a complete and radical re-design of the 7 will achieve about 10% of bu**er-all difference - aerodynamic wishbones - "give me a break" ❗ And, IMHO, sticking bits of stiff cardboard onto a 7 in a wind tunnel for a couple of hours probably generated only amusement among the operators 😬

Agree completely All this faffing around with formulae is all very well, but is of very limited practical use. Formulae can be used as "pictogram's" though, to get an idea of what factors are involved, but that's about it at our level. Oh well, back to the drawing board then 😬

If you're interested, a very good, easily understandable book on the subject is - don't laugh 😬 "Aerodynamics for Naval Aviators" ISBN 0-89100-370-3 You can safely ignore the bits on Induced Drag 😬 Available for about 12 quid from most good pilot stores. Waiting for my BRG SV kit. 😬 DELIVERY BROUGHT FORWARD, only three weeks to go now - WHOOPEE