Tony C

OK, what's the trick? I've just installed the seats and put the headrests in, but now cannot remove the headrests. I've tried pulling upwards, twisting/pulling, side to side/pulling, fore and aft/pulling and searched for the hidden catch - all to no avail. BRG SV kit. 😬 Bruumm, bruumm at last

I got my 'C' spanners from Demon Tweeks - "Fixed for 2.25" ID; P/N SPXC101" for 5.53 ea + VAT. You need two. (Total came to 15.41 inclusive) CORRECTION TO ABOVE PART NUMBER INCLUDED (18 April) - sorry You need them if you have adjustable ride height dampers. Screw the 'nut' up the leg to increase ride height. I've put mine all the way up - ooer! and have got roughly 110mm under the sump - and it still looks low! I'm going to start high and see what I 'clunk' with the sump and progressively lower to see how low I can go. I know somebody will be along to tell me 80mm is OK, but it's my sump! so nyah. By the way - BEWARE that 'trick' of mine above with the drill bit, the pliers slipped once and I have a LARGE gouge in my finger for my carelesness and stupidity for not using the correct tool. BRG SV kit. 😬 Bruumm, bruumm at last Edited by - Tony C on 17 Apr 2003 19:31:34 Edited by - Tony C on 18 Apr 2003 10:37:18

I used a couple of appropriately sized drill bits - graunching I know - placed in the holes and then squeezed them 'together' with a large pair of adjustable pliers- saves damaging the holes by using a punch. I used this method on the fronts and the 'C' spanners on the backs. I also have a pair of 'C' spanners of which I had to file the 'ends' to fit in the holes. The 'C' is not quite the correct diameter, but it's close enough to work until I find time to fettle them correctly. BRG SV kit. 😬 Bruumm, bruumm at last

My Assembly Guide recommends 11 turns in on the track rod end for an approximate track(ing) setting [section 4 - Steering, Page 2, Paragraph 4]. However, the widetrack front suspension as fitted to my SV required 13 turns to put the front wheels parallel with the back, with a 'nadgers' of toe-in. Hopefully this will prevent somone torque-ing-up the track rod end and then waste time having to set it correctly later. BRG SV kit. 😬 Bruumm, bruumm at last

Despite what it says in the book, I've just filled my brand new 6 speed (which I'd drained of all residual oil prior to installing) and I could only get slightly less than 2 litres in it (actually 2 US quarts, but they're nearly the same). My "Draper" syringe made life easy and I only managed to get half all over the garage floor, which the cat then promptly walked through. AND I used Redline MT-90, so there simon 😬 Cheers, Tony BRG SV kit. 😬 Getting ready to bruumm, bruumm Edited by - Tony C on 15 Apr 2003 12:32:55

I think it's a REAL good idea to have the car sitting on its wheels when fitting the engine/gearbox. There's a need for a bit of CAREFUL grunting and heaving to get the gearbox to go 'into' the prop shaft (length of 2 by 4 works wonders as a lever between the chassis and front of engine when the prop shaft is lined-up) and I wouldn't want to shove it off the axle stands. It's is said that there's an advantage to having the front wheels on the ground and the back up on stands, but I think that's not really necessary, other than to have sufficient clearance to get under and fit the gearbox mounting bolts. Miraz and I fitted mine from above, just the two of us. A good engine crane with a proper 1metre strop (1000kg), with the strop fitted around the engine between inlet branch 2 and 3, gives the 'correct' angle of approach (gearbox hangs down, but can be manipulated in the vertical quite easily by one person). A bit of cardboard to protect the top of the tunnel entry is required and just make like you're putting on a shoe. Took two of us about half an hour tops. 😬 The rear shocks can be left off, but you need them fitted to the drop the car onto its wheels for engine insertion. They do come off quite easily and the whole thing doesn't go 'ka-sprang' when you undo the bolts (but my SV has a Watt linkage, which might help to hold everything lined-up). After the engine is in, you can put it back on the stands and work away quite happily. You can complete the entire rear suspension and just take-off the shocks again - no biggy! AND leave the FIA bar off until all the boot cover holes have been made. I still haven't put mine back on yet and I'm nearly ready to 'light the blue touch paper' - not while it's on stands, I might add. The average trolley jack can't lift the car high enough to get the axle stands to maximum extension. I bought an engine crane (folding legs, 1 tonne) from Machine Mart - the best tool money I ever spent - a 'crawler' was another good buy. Some sort of seat of the right height help greatly too - I use an old upturned kitchen garbage bin, it's just the right height. On the whole, I'd have to say the Assembly guide is not TOO bad. Cheers, Tony BRG SV kit. 😬 Getting ready to bruumm, bruumm

simonstevens, Is it ALL Redline gearbox oil or just the GL5 type that you say, or rather your contact says, eats synchro' rings ??? Redline is a top brand oil and they specifically warn not to use GL5 oil in synchromesh gearboxes because it's TOO slipery and will destroy the synchromesh rings, but GL4 is recommended for synchromesh gearboxes. You might want to check again with your contact and post the results here. Sounds a bit fishy to me.

mhoam, You might also be interested to know that the Assembly guide tells you to fit the FIA bar before fitting the rear shock absorbers. Fair enough: the rear shocks obscure the vertical bolt fitted upwards into the FIA bar boss, so you cant fit the FAI bar with the rear shocks in place. UNFORTUNATELY, it's not just the outboard passenger shoulder harness which is the problem. With the FIA bar in place it's impossible to insert your trusty 'Black-and-Decker' to drill the holes for the boot cover/tonneau cover poppers - so off has to come the rear shocks in order to remove the FIA bar again This sort of thing is a Royal PITA 🙆🏻. Best to leave the car on axle stands and leave the rear shocks and FAI bar not fitted until all the stuff at the back end is finished - thanks for this excellent advice miraz I agree wholeheartedly: this sort of thing (Assembly Guide mistakes and omissions) would make an excellent 7faq section. I'm making a list. Cheers, Tony BRG SV kit. 😬 Getting ready to bruumm, bruumm

Fixed the fan/anti-roll bar clearance problem by sliding the fan forward slightly on its 'feet'. Low radiator it is - gotta keep that CG as low as possible don't we 😬 Thanks guys, Tony (covered in Evo-Stick) BRG SV kit. 😬 Getting ready to bruumm, bruumm

Thanks mav and Chris W; excellent photo's and the answer to my prayers. Is that 1 molecule hot or cold Chris? My spectrum interferometer is bust, can I borrow yours, the smallest feeler gauge I've got is way too big. I think I'll fit some spacers between the rad. and bobbins; I don't like the idea of contact in that area. Cheers, Tony BRG SV kit. 😬 Getting ready to bruumm, bruumm

I've just fitted the aluminium radiator. I noticed there are two sets of mounting holes in the radiator brackets - I'm observant like that. Of course the assembly guide doesn't mention which ones to use. I first fitted it high and tried the nosecone and there didn't seem to be a clearance problem, so I fitted it low - not there's that much difference. Also the radiator fan is touching the anti-roll bar - I mean it prevented the radiator from sitting flush on the bobbins by about half an inch. Are they all like that? Cheers, Tony BRG SV kit. 😬 Getting ready to bruumm, bruumm

The Assembly guide doesn't mention that with the FIA bar fitted to the SV (and maybe 'narrow' cars too) 😬 it is impossible to then fit the passenger outboard shoulder strap bolt. [W] It does mention to fit the FIA bar before the rear shocks though. I've just managed to lift the passengers side of the bar high enough to get the harness bolt in without having to completely remove the FIA bar - didn't even scratch the paint. The car is on four axle stands at their highest setting. I removed the LH lower shock bolt while supporting the De Dion tube on a suitable length of wood; and then the upper shock bolt - both came out like a charm (courtesy of LOTS of copper grease used when fitting) and the De Dion didn't move. I then removed all the LH side FIA bar bolts. plus the bolts in the two rear diagonals. I then CAREFULLY levered-up the LH side of the bar base-plate with two screwdrivers (padded underneath with paper towel to protect the paintwork), high enough to insert a 1/2" socket between the chassis and the bar base-plate. Important to be careful not to lift it too high, to prevent the boss on the base of the FIA bar coming out of the hole in the chassis. The 1/2" socket is just the right diameter to hold the base-plate at the right height to get the harness bolt in - JUST. It's necessary to wind down the harnes bolt as you're lowering the FIA bar to prevent the bolt head hitting the underside of the daigonal bar. When first fitting the FIA bar, I greased-up the boss and 'socket' and this may have helped a bit. Now having a celebratory cup of tea and TWO chockie biccies 😬 Hope this help someone 😬 Cheers, Tony BRG SV kit. 😬 Engine in - no problem

Pierre, There is a definite risk that you have permenantly damaged the bolts - it would be a REAL good idea to get yourself some new ones from Caterham or get the specification from them and obtain some locally. Cheers, Tony BRG SV kit. 😬 Engine in - no problem

Arrived in the post and have fitted it 😬 I wouldn't like to do that job with the engine in situ. Knocking the cover in was difficult enough on the bench BRG SV kit. 😬 Engine about to go in - like it or not

Thanks for the input guys. Hopefully mine will be in the post today. I remember fitting one to my friends gearbox with the gearbox out of the car, and getting the circlip to seat properly in its groove was quite 'a cup of tea moment'. I think I'll wait and do it on the bench. The extra two days has given me the chance to tidy-up and protect the engine wiring and looms - obviously done on a production line with air guns - on a Monday! Cheers, Tony BRG SV kit. 😬 Engine about to go in - like it or not

Hmmm. I'm not doubting you of course, I've never done the job, but I can remember seeing a piston push back tool in a catalogue and it looked like a straight push. I guess the rear ones require a different tool. I suppose the twist function must be the self adjustment. I've just changed the rear brake pads on my new kit - they come with rear pads suitable for uprated front brakes, so they have to be changed for pads suitable for use with standard front brakes - go figure! I did notice the piston had sort-of grooves in the face. Changing the pads was a fiddly job on the bench with new calipers - goodness knows what it will be like with the caliper hanging on the end of a copper brake pipe. Another justification for braided rear hoses. I ordered the bits for mine from Think Automotive and specified braided hoses with a clear PVC skin - to prevent the stainless braid digging holes in the De Dion tube or anything else it touches. Instead of the banjo fitting at the caliper, I'm going to use a 45 degree swivel fitting; it'll give a much better run to the pipes and prevent the twisted pipe you get with the banjo. Cheers, I'll have to have a look at one of these wind back tools in a store. BRG SV kit. 😬 Engine and gearbox mating

This piston wind back tool I keep hearing about - does it merely push the piston back or does it rotate it as well ? Cheers, Tony BRG SV kit. 😬 Engine and gearbox mating

Please pardon my gaff Graham - I didn't realise the discussion was about engines designed for leaded fuel. Pinking can knock holes in pistons. Also using unleaded in an engine designed for leaded fuel will, as Graham says, eat great lumps out of your valve seats. Sorry, Tony BRG SV kit. 😬 Engine and gearbox mating

I suppose it's up to the individual, but IMHO, fuel additive is a waste of money - like oil additives. When I was at Southall Tech., during my apprenticeship, they had an Austin A-Series set-up on a dynomometer in a test cell. We used to do all sorts of adjustments on it and could get a BMEP readout, as well as the flywheel power. We adjusted the valve timing and the ignition timing and the mixture and anything else you can think of - we also messed around with fuels of various octane ratings and apart from having to reset the ignition timing to prevent DETONATION (Pinking), the difference in engine power output was negligable and almost unreadable on the graph. If I remember correctly, the advantage of increasing the octane rating of a piston engine fuel is to permit higher compression ratio's. Adjusting the ignition timing to prevent Detonation will only effect your perception of power output IMHO. Cheers, Tony BRG SV kit. 😬 Engine and gearbox mating

Expletive deleated BRG SV kit. 😬 On its wheels at last

My speedo drive is missing and I was planning on fitting the eng/g'box tomorrow. Is it possible to fit it afterwards? - I suspect not Cheers, Tony BRG SV kit. 😬 On its wheels at last

Thanks guys Sounds like good advice Martin - it shouldn't be necessary to bend the bar so much for it to align. Caterham are doing the PBC, so they can look about it then. Cheers, Tony BRG SV kit. 😬 Back end nearly finished - on its wheels soon

This thing is misnamed, it should be called the "pain in the *rse strut" Fitted the front bolt and the strut at the rear is about 3" out of line towards the centre of the car. I managed to bend it sufficiently to get the rear 'U' shaped bit to fit over the tube, but the bolt hole was slightly out of line. I could fettle the rear bolt hole no problem, but I don't like the idea of having stresses put into the chassis by the strut. Are they all like this or do I have a 'dodgy' one. I'd like to know before I take to it (off the car) wiv me big 'ammer to make it line-up properly, whether it likes it or not. Cheers, Tony BRG SV kit. 😬 Back end nearly finished - on its wheels soon

Mine's 7/16 x 2 3/4 with a plain and lockwasher. BRG SV kit. 😬 Back end up in the air

I thought size always mattered 😬 Sorry Simon - couldn't resist. BRG SV kit. 😬 Back end up in the air