Iain McCallum

I recently changed to Titon from the Caterham 4 point due to the near impossible lap adjustment regime! I went for the lap adjustment pulling down from the centre and it proves to be a lot easier especially due to the large adjusters. Eventhough it is still best to adjust the lap belt before getting in the car (placing a mark on the strap helps!) the whole arrangement is better for a variety of length of drivers. Cheers Iain

If you get a chance you should spend a fair bit of time getting to know what is in each box and checking it ties up with the build manual. I did this after I found (or didn't find!) that there were no steering rack brackets (no 2 in the build process I think!). Most disappointing! I did a full inventory check after that and got the missing bits (there will be some!) from Caterham in good time before you reach that point in the build. Great fun and I am envious! Happy building! Iain

My self-build Sigma 150 in 2011 had the flicking tacho and 'strange' oil pressure symptoms. The only time the OPG registered correctly was when I had to do the initial cranking of the engine during the build! Now it registers pressure but only linearly - keeps on rising the hotter the engine gets but never fluctuates or drops down on idle. I had replaced both the OPG and the sender with no changes, and on the first service last year CC Midlands couldn't fix it either. I think a 'proper' sender and guage is needed. Apparently the OPG is fed from the tacho so I also replaced the tacho (to try to lose both problems) but that didn't fix them either. However car runs as sweet as a nut so not that concerned especially as the DRE shift lights have added a new dimension to blatting! 😬 Iain

This has happened to me a few times and I found that I was putting downwards pressure on the gear lever (as if going into reverse) which meant it closed the gate to second. Released the pressure and it goes in fine!

I completed my Roadsport SV build last July and can tell you that even though you think you have the tools for the job, invariably you don't! The diff was the hardest to get in and for that definitely don't be afraid to use a big hammer, and grind the bolt to a point! Also I laid some cushion type interlocking tiles (from Machine Mart) that makes everything much more comfortable (especially knees!) I am near Marple in Cheshire so if you want a chat (or to borrow tools) then please get in touch. Always good to talk.

Thanks for the help guys. A bit of bending has definately helped but the holes are slightly mis-aligned so will re-drill. Anyone know if I have to put grommets in the knee trim holes for the SVA? I used the ones supplied to fill the big holes in the side of the transmission tunnel!

I am building a new Sigma SV and am struggling getting the supplied knee plates in the correct position. When I line up the pre-drilled holes there is a large gap at the dashboard edge of the plate which looks like it needs to be covered. Also it just seems to fit on top of everything rather than 'hook' under something. Anyone got any pictures that can help me get it fitted correctly or have any suggestions? Cheers Iain

I can understand wrong maps about a year ago, but that is a LONG time in engine management! I will let them sort it out in the PBC and post the solution. Hopeful that there is one!

Just measured mine and the groove is 95 mm from the front edge and so seems it is IVA compatible. Thanks guys. Helpful as always!

Hi there, I am just about to fit the front wings on my new SV 150 build but I am unsure on the position of them to pass the SVA. The wings have a build up groove on the inside which lies quite nicely on the front stay but when in this position the front of the wing leaves some tyre exposed when looking from above. Is this position OK to use? Thanks

Thanks for the information guys. I am tending towards getting it all checked over at the pre-build check and not running it at all before then. I presume that if there is anything major wrong it will be up to CC to fix it as it has not run at all properly yet? Pity as it sounded really good (when I could persuade it to run) when I had visitors! Really surprised (and disappointed) it comes in such a poor state of running as it is a slightly major part of the car.

Hi people, I am new to the forum and am in the final stages of the build of an SV Sigma 150 but am having problems getting the engine running cleanly. When I tried the first start I was a bit concerned that it didn't start easily at all then found that it wouldn't accept any throttle at all. Also it was hunting and stalling all the time. With a little help from Sean at CC we got some replacement plugs and it seemed to cure the start issues as it looks like it had flooded and the plugs were goosed. It still didn't take any throttle and so Sean sent me an engine set-up guide which pointed me at the airflow through the inlets and the TPS voltage and resetting the ECU. I am not a real mechanic so didn't have the meters and such like. However I eventually got a meter and found that the TPS voltage was set at 0.45 volts and managed to reset it to 1.03. Now the engine accepts throttle but won't idle! I am also getting a LOT of combustion in the inlets and the engine is, not surprisingly, misfiring all the time. To my untrained eye this is a timing problem which I can't fix. Any clues? Also I expected the engine to be able to run when I pressed the button as there are no instructions on having to do any sort of initial set-up on it. Is this a common 'feature' of a new build? Any help would be appreciated! Many thanks Iain