Iain McCallum

The rerouting of the brake line is together with the replacement diff carrier. On my 2011 Roadsport SV, the brake line (which is just placed wherever you liked in the original build) was about 2 mm from the 'ding' on the dedion caused by the diff carrier bolt head! The new brake line is just bent around where the bolts would hit, although the new carrier would not have the same problem as the bolts are recessed. If that help! Iain

Hi Tim, I have a new longnose shower cap and the brackets with the Merlin Motorsport mirrors and everything fits fine. A bit tight on the front edge of the mirror bracket, but fien and dandy! Iain

Two ordered from Merlin. Thanks David!

David - which mirrors are fitted to the mount, and where did you get them from? Cheers Iain

I will go for the 'standard' ones also. I currently only have the normal Caterham side screen mirrors but will look to upgrade those as well, so any decent suggestions will be welcome! Iain

Definite interest from me, especially if you can get the fastners, but look good either way. Iain

I will concur with the box spanner as my oil pressure gauge started to play up and i suspected the sender but it wasn't at fault. I traced the wire back from the sender and found that a connector was attached to the chassis and it just needed connecting properly and latching. Somehow it had worked its way loose. Probably not your issue as you have checked the gauge - but you never know! Also it appears to get some sort of feed through the rev counter so might be worth a check of that wiring too. Cheers Iain

I happen to have a spare 150 injector and it is labelled from Ford 2S4U-AB 9F593 7204P04922 Iain

Need to be careful with this one, but you can put the rear up on stands with the wheels off and then watch the sensor light as the speed rises, or as you press the clutch! This worked for diagnosing my issue. Caterham had put the cable tie too close to the sensor after they changed the diff cage, so i undid all the ties and it burst back into life!

The Easimap MBE lead is an MBE-MAP-KIT-3-CAN and this connects into the OBD port on the drivers side behind the large rubber plug under the dash. It is not cheap! £129.86 including delivery and VAT from SBD Motorsport on 020 8391 0121 Iain

Hi guys! i am looking to get a synchrometer and the Easimap lead for xmas so would like to know the details of what and where for my Sigma 150. there seem to be a few variants of both so specific model info/sizes would be appreciated Many thanks Iain

you will spend a fair amount of time on your knees, back, side etc. so get some nice interlocking cushion tiles for the garage floor - and it will be warmer in those cold evenings which will soon arrive! Iain

Thanks Jonathan. I had seen that post but the only number that appears in the CBS list is the 7.5mm-8.4mm, so is that the diameter or the length?. The post you pointed to talks about a length of about 21mm but that is not mentioned as part of the description so I am still none the wiser as to which to get! Maybe a phone call to CBS in needed!

Hi guys, I am looking to replace the standard Dzus fastners underneath the nose cone with ones that have a wing nut attached. However there seems to be a variety of sizes available on the CBS site: 2.5mm-3.37mm, 4mm, 3.8mm-4.6mm, 4.4mm-5.25.., 5mm-5.87mm 6.3mm-7.1mm, 6.9mm-7.7mm, 7.5mm-8.4mm, 9mm What is the size of the standard ones supplied with the car (SV Sigma 2011) as I can't figure out how these measurements are arrived at? I don't particularly want to take off the old ones until I have the new ones available Thanks Iain

Is there any possibility of fitting the CBS mirrors to the door like the Caterham supplied version, or is the mounting bracket the wrong way round i.e. has to be vertical? Iain

I have the DRE shift lights installed for about 4 years on my Sigma 150 in exactly the same way with the feed from the tacho and have never had any problems, so I agree that the ECU issue is probably a red herring. Iain

An excellent insight. thanks. The full scale was probably due to the pin disconnection as you suggested, because it only happened once. The other times I disconnected, it went straight to the 2 bar position. The slightly confusing thing, still, is that there is variance in the gauge when it is disconnected from the sender. To me it was like the gauge was sensing a temperature reading, because it did rise up dramatically as the engine got really hot. However, I am now happy that i didn't have to replace the sender to get it fixed!

Jonathan Just got the engine up to operating temperature on idle and the oil pressure read about 2 bar and increased to approx 4 bar with throttle. While it was idling I disconnected the lead from the sender and the gauge initially went full scale and then dropped to about the 2 bar mark very quickly. I left it idling for about 10 mins and it still read 2 bar with no change on throttle application - as previously seen - so this led to my thinking that the sender was at fault. Connected up the sender lead again and everything is reporting correctly. Very strange! It is a standard Sigma 150 so the current wiring diagram will be valid but I am rubbish at reading them! Cheers Iain

Oil pressure update time! I looked at replacing the actual unit but found that I didn't need to. It turns out that the other end of the existing cable connector came undone VERY easily from the pre-existing supplied wiring. I plugged it back in properly and placed it on top of the chassis bar it was tied to (previously underneath) and now I have proper oil pressure readings (fluctuating nicely with revs). I would have expected the gauge to not read anything at all in this disconnected situation i.e. 0 but it was still reading something. I know the gauge takes feed from the rev counter but where is it getting this feed from - an ECU output? Slightly baffling but not a problem anymore! Note to self - check ALL connections before shelling out for replacement parts! At least I now have a new spare sender unit! Many thanks for your help Iain

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I have actually sourced one from Redline for £65 plus VAT. They didn't know they had one, but found it during a stock check this week! It is actually labeled up for a Duratec in their description. Will be fitting it this weekend to see if I get my oil pressure back! Thanks Iain

No joy with Caterham parts but will try Redline. Thanks

Hi fellows, After eventually finding a tool that I can extract my sender without taking anything off the car (2011 Sigma 150bhp): MELTM22 TM Metric Double Ended Box Spanner - Size: 22mm x 23mm x 125mm from Tool guru (http://www.toolgurus.co.uk) I am struggling to find a seller for the Danfoss 1350 sender: I intend to try an electrical replacement before changing to a mechanical as this would be a much easier thing to fix (currently reads like oil temperature rather than oil pressure!) If anyone can help with a supplier it would be really appreciated. Thanks Iain

Hi guys, My 2011 Sigma has just passed its MOT, but I mean JUST! The guy at Kwik Fit tested the lamda maximum value for Fast Idle at 1.027 whereas the maximum allowed is 1.030 (according to his machine!). The VOSA guide says the maximum should be 1.09 so in actual fact it is well under. Has anyone else had any issues with this variance in the maximum values? Many thanks Iain - See more at: http://www.lotus7.club/blogs/maximum-lambda-limits-150bhp-sigma#sthash.sMLNkhaj.dpuf

Hi guys, My 2011 Sigma has just passed its MOT, but I mean JUST! The guy at Kwik Fit tested the lamda maximum value for Fast Idle at 1.027 whereas the maximum allowed is 1.030 (according to his machine!). The VOSA guide says the maximum should be 1.09 so in actual fact it is well under. Has anyone else had any issues with this variance in the maximum values? Many thanks Iain

Interestingly my 1.6 Sigma 150 just had its first MOT and the tester said it only just passed the emissions test. The first lambda figure was 1.530 and when he did it a second time it came down to 1.028 which was just under the limit of 1.030 according to him, but the VOSA guide (from above) for the 1.6 Sigma says the limit is 1.090. Does the decrease indicate the engine being hotter during the second test, and should I point out the difference in the documented numbers to the garage (Kwik Fit in this case)? Cheers Iain