Ferrino

Steve, is the webcon pump you refer to the same as the Weber one at the top of this page?

Guys - how tricky is it to feed a wire from the engine bay, through the tunnel, and out into the fuel tank area, with the gearbox/propshaft in situ? I need to pass a power source to a fuel pump in the back. Cheers

Cheers. Don't suppose anyone has links to any photos of rear-fitted fuel pumps in situ? Would it be straightforward to fit a fuel pump in the back just by removing the floor of the boot?

That's curious because my 7 has the facet pump you mention, mounted in the engine bay rather than nearer the tank, and it seems to be feeding my Weber 45s competently enough (on the road). It's something I want to look into because there are no fuel filters or a regulator, which I am ordering. Out of interest, would it be much trouble to move the pump to the tank area? I guess I would just need something to attach it to and then route a +12v power source in that direction and do some plumbing? Cheers

None of the numbers seem to correspond to the 4010x part number - the US patent number is engraved in the side and there is a 574A number on the white sticker. There is a 41654 engraved on the underside, but it doesn't pulll out a specific pump rating/version on a Google search. I am going to order an inline fuel pressure gauge, so hopefully that will tell me which I have..... Alan - which regulator do you use with your FAST ROAD solid state pump? Can you adjust the regulator or is it pre-set at the factory? Also, is it competent at lowering the pressure of the FAST ROAD pump output to something more carb-friendly? Cheers

Brian: according to your guide, I should be looking for a pump which can provide roughly 1.5 litres/minute, or 90 litres/hour, considering my 150-ish BHP. Now, here are the different solid state facet pumps available: Road 2.5-3.0 PSI 54 Ltr / Hour Fast Road 4.5-5.5 PSI 81 Ltr / Hour Race 6.0-7.0 PSI 113 Ltr / Hour The Road pump would satisfy Weber's guideline of maximum pressure (

Cheers, do you think the fuel filters towards the bottom of this page are OK?

1) I've never really bothered to check out the fuel supply to the carbs on my 7 until I noted on a website, advice that my fuel pump (the golden, cubic, solid state Facet electrical pump) should be located as close to the tank as possible. Mine is actually positioned in the engine bay, just behind the accelerator pedal - could this be an issue? Car seems to run well, but then I've got nothing to compare it to, so I'm not sure what the warning signs are. The only thing I really note about the pump is the noise it makes when it's topping up the carbs, but this is normal. Sometimes get a little stuttering/hesitation if I go from zero throttle to WOT, but then I think this is more to do with progression than a fuel issue. 2) I traced the fuel line from the tank through to the pump and couldn't find a fuel filter anywhere - is a pre-pump filter highly recommended and easy to fit? 3) Is there any way I can examine my Facet fuel pump for potential blockages/defects? 4) What is the optimal PSI range for a fuel pump feeding Weber 45 DCOEs? Replacement pumps are available in 4 flavours: 1.5-2.5, 2.5 - 3.0, 4 - 5.5, 6-7. Many thanks!

Fair enough, but I think there are certain features which would improve the forum, which many are unaware of. For example, a more comprehensive search feature, which lets you search by username, the ability to conduct polls, a list of online members, the ability to view images without having to spawn new windows, an easier scripting interface (for example, when quoting people or coloring text), an integrated help system, ability to distinguish between members and non-members, and all the aesthetics that come as part of a proven forum package. Oh, and it's very customisable - avatars can be switched off for low-bandwidth users etc...., and it's the de facto standard for internet forums. The Westy forum is a fantastic example. Cheers

I have now wired up my Omex Sequential shift lights and am now posed with the problem of how to get the LEDs (see the 4 LEDs at the bottom of this picture) onto the scuttle without any major metal butchery or cable exposure. Any ideas/piccies would be great! Rather than sending the entire LED box through the scuttle, would it be possible to chop the cable which leads into it, send this through, and then rejoin the wires just under the scuttle? I guess this would still require a hole, but I'm sure I read somewhere that others have routed wires through one of the popper holes at the centre of the scuttle? Thanks

Just wondering if the Blatchat admins/techies are thinking of migrating to a more sophisticated forum system in the near future, such as the PHP-based system in place at WSCC? It would be nice to be able to link to images within the actual thread and have avatars, conduct polls, post small files etc....... Thanks!

I followed Paul's advice on replacing the bushes without lifting the back of the car and found that this worked a treat . I couldn't believe how destroyed the bushes were (first time I have replaced them since purchase in June). Part of the rubber from one half was actually hanging out of the A-frame. I didn't find it too tricky to lift the bushes into the diff - lining up the holes took longer. Cheers!

Thanks!

I just received the A-frame bushes which I ordered from Caterham (for a 1989 live-axle) and was a little surprised to find 2 rubber pieces for each 'set'. I imagined that the bush would just come in 1 large cylindrical piece which you push the bolt through, rather than the 2 bits which I presume go back-to-back?

Just read this post again..... Does this mean that in order to power my shift lights using the heated windscreen +12V wire (whenever the ignition is on), I need to take one of the wires which feeds into the heated windscreen switch and put this into the shift lights? Alternatively, I could take the wire which comes out of the switch and be able to toggle the power going into the shift lights by switching the heated windscreen switch on/off? Cheers

Are they magnesium wheels with Yoko 3s I can see?

No, that makes sense - thanks for the explanation! BTW - how does the cocktail stick & blue-tac method work, neilsjuke?

Whilst I was installing a bike computer not long ago and was spinning the front offside wheel to check that the sensor was working, I noticed a regular 'friction' noise upon every turn of the wheel. I guess this is the pad touching the disc and was wondering if some contact is normal? Or should the wheel turn without any noise at all? It's not enough to bring the wheel to a halt abruptly but I'm sure it's not helping. Could it be a sign of warped discs? Thankyou

Ooooh - those seats remind me of Westfield - tasty! 😬

Just wondering if the pods/brackets which hold up the headlamp and indicator lights have changed much over time? I have a 1989 live-axle with corroded pods and was wondering if I can source a direct replacement? From memory, I think the housing for the indicator light looks different on current models...... Cheers

Cool, that's what I thought - so any clues as to which wire I am looking for? There is no heated windscreen in my 7, so I am guessing that it is hanging around somewhere..... For example, is it designed to connect to the nearside or offside of the heated windscreen? I guess that if the latter, then it may be found dangling around near the steering wheel end of the loom?

Cheers guys - I'm hoping to use the heated screen power, but not sure which wire this is? I have a 1989 live-axle with quite a few taped-up unused wires hanging beneath the dash.....

[hijack]How did you go about bending the arm? I bought these Spa mirrors over the Summer but got never got round to whacking them with a hammer - is there a more elegant solution?[/hijack]

I recently bought a used Omex shift light system (4 LEDs) and was wondering what the easiest way to wire it in is? I understand that I have to source the tacho feed, +12V fused & switched and earth - can I not just take all of these connections from the 3 wires that go into the back of my tacho gauge? If so, what's the best type of electrical connector to use? I have access to a soldering iron if that's the most reliable way to go? Many thanks, An electronics retard.

The current highest bid is £36-00. Isn't a brand new one less than that at JW An intellectual is a man who takes more words than necessary to tell more than he knows. Dwight D. Eisenhower