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j_thombs

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  1. It stops squealing in a similar way to anti squeal shims that are fitted to the reverse of your pad (piston side). Jon
  2. I'd suggest WD40 on your discs (and pray) and also new pads (again). Jon Ex Beaulieu no31/ex Supersport R and now taking a break in a 111R Elise My Caterham Pics
  3. Did you put the Copper Grease on the pad to disc contact area ? Or am I reading that wrong. I've put copper grease on the piston to pad side before but never on the pad to disc side, I would have thought that would be very wrong 😳 Jon Ex Beaulieu no31/ex Supersport R and now taking a break in a 111R Elise My Caterham Pics
  4. All This is massively off topic........ I am trying to reverse engineer a Porsche 924 Ignition control module made by Siemens....does any one have any inforrmation on one ? Circuit diagrams etc... Jon Ex Beaulieu no31/ex Supersport R and now taking a break in a 111R Elise My Caterham Pics
  5. A really rough guess............ It will either be the device switching the transistor (that got hot) that has broken or the transistor itself. Past experience tells me that the transistor has probably got hot/blown up/etc etc...... How easy is the transistor to get to ? I'd start by replacing that as it will most likely be a maplins stock item, I'd also like to know what made it blow ! I'd be interested in the circuit diagram aswell Jon Ex Beaulieu no31/ex Supersport R and now taking a break in a 111R Elise My Caterham Pics
  6. There is usually something called a shift lock solenoid that is located in the trim below your gear selection lever (they can also be in the transmission). They sometimes go and then lock the car in park, you are right in thinking that the brake pedal is one of the inputs used to disable this but there are also others to stop you damaging the car if it detects a fault. The only thing I can suggest is get onto Ebay and try and get a service manual and try and fix it, failing that then it sounds like a trip to the dealer is in order. Jon Ex Beaulieu no31/ex Supersport R and now taking a break in a 111R Elise My Caterham Pics
  7. The 111R is fantastic.....I am in the process of putting some pictures up onto the website. It is a crazy car, feels medium fast until around 6200rpm when all hell breaks loose and things start to approach you a LOT faster . The handling is fantastic, not as keen to turn in as the 7 but so so so easy to hold in a slide 😬 Because the power band is small and the 6speed box is geared very long I keep finding that I am a gear higher than I should be and I still find there is something disturbing about dropping 2 gears so that you are in the power band at 7k rpm.....all the way to 9k.......scary Martin - You'll love the car it's fantastic ! Jon Ex Beaulieu no31/ex Supersport R and now taking a break in a 111R Elise My Caterham Pics
  8. Veitchy.....That didn't last long 😳 Martin - If you need any history on the car (most is above) let me know Jon Ex Beaulieu no31/ex Supersport R and now taking a break in a 111R Elise My Caterham Pics
  9. As described above really by 7heavensoon There are usually 2 pots in the accel pedal with different types of output (Analogue, PWM, CAN), the throttle body will have 2 analogue pots and 2 lines to drive the dc motor for the throttle plate. I've never heard of an optically encoded variant. When a fault is detected there are a number of different failure modes depending on the system you have. But reduced power, revs being slow to react and also rev limiting are common. The dealer will be able to tell you what codes the car has set, what make/model is it ? Jon Ex Beaulieu no31 and now ex Supersport R......so 7less at the moment My Caterham Pics
  10. I can't confirm it for sure but usually TMAP sensors have a precision 5V reference voltage from the ECU. Jon Ex Beaulieu no31 and now ex Supersport R......so 7less at the moment My Caterham Pics
  11. Definately sounds like a temp sender failure to me. It is located as described/shown above and is the small brass threaded part. The other part next to it with the brown or black connector is the temp sender for the ECU which thankfully is about 1,000,000 times as reliable as it is actually used for something important. You can check the gauge operation (again as mentioned) by removing the connector (green wire I think) and touching it against the engine block, the gauge should show max temp. The temperature sensors are about £8 from Caterham and are not difficult to change so long as you don't overtighten them......... Jon Ex Beaulieu no31 and now ex Supersport R......so 7less at the moment My Caterham Pics
  12. Enjoy the car Matthew Jon Ex Beaulieu no31 and now ex Supersport R......so 7less at the moment My Caterham Pics
  13. Now up to over £2,000,000 Jon Ex Beaulieu no31 now Supersport R.. My Caterham Pics
  14. Temp sender would be my guess.......in the past I have also had to replace the water rail Jon Ex Beaulieu no31 now Supersport R.. My Caterham Pics
  15. Same here Jon Ex Beaulieu no31 now Supersport R.. My Caterham Pics
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