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j_thombs

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Everything posted by j_thombs

  1. It stops squealing in a similar way to anti squeal shims that are fitted to the reverse of your pad (piston side). Jon
  2. I'd suggest WD40 on your discs (and pray) and also new pads (again). Jon Ex Beaulieu no31/ex Supersport R and now taking a break in a 111R Elise My Caterham Pics
  3. Did you put the Copper Grease on the pad to disc contact area ? Or am I reading that wrong. I've put copper grease on the piston to pad side before but never on the pad to disc side, I would have thought that would be very wrong 😳 Jon Ex Beaulieu no31/ex Supersport R and now taking a break in a 111R Elise My Caterham Pics
  4. All This is massively off topic........ I am trying to reverse engineer a Porsche 924 Ignition control module made by Siemens....does any one have any inforrmation on one ? Circuit diagrams etc... Jon Ex Beaulieu no31/ex Supersport R and now taking a break in a 111R Elise My Caterham Pics
  5. A really rough guess............ It will either be the device switching the transistor (that got hot) that has broken or the transistor itself. Past experience tells me that the transistor has probably got hot/blown up/etc etc...... How easy is the transistor to get to ? I'd start by replacing that as it will most likely be a maplins stock item, I'd also like to know what made it blow ! I'd be interested in the circuit diagram aswell Jon Ex Beaulieu no31/ex Supersport R and now taking a break in a 111R Elise My Caterham Pics
  6. There is usually something called a shift lock solenoid that is located in the trim below your gear selection lever (they can also be in the transmission). They sometimes go and then lock the car in park, you are right in thinking that the brake pedal is one of the inputs used to disable this but there are also others to stop you damaging the car if it detects a fault. The only thing I can suggest is get onto Ebay and try and get a service manual and try and fix it, failing that then it sounds like a trip to the dealer is in order. Jon Ex Beaulieu no31/ex Supersport R and now taking a break in a 111R Elise My Caterham Pics
  7. The 111R is fantastic.....I am in the process of putting some pictures up onto the website. It is a crazy car, feels medium fast until around 6200rpm when all hell breaks loose and things start to approach you a LOT faster . The handling is fantastic, not as keen to turn in as the 7 but so so so easy to hold in a slide 😬 Because the power band is small and the 6speed box is geared very long I keep finding that I am a gear higher than I should be and I still find there is something disturbing about dropping 2 gears so that you are in the power band at 7k rpm.....all the way to 9k.......scary Martin - You'll love the car it's fantastic ! Jon Ex Beaulieu no31/ex Supersport R and now taking a break in a 111R Elise My Caterham Pics
  8. Veitchy.....That didn't last long 😳 Martin - If you need any history on the car (most is above) let me know Jon Ex Beaulieu no31/ex Supersport R and now taking a break in a 111R Elise My Caterham Pics
  9. As described above really by 7heavensoon There are usually 2 pots in the accel pedal with different types of output (Analogue, PWM, CAN), the throttle body will have 2 analogue pots and 2 lines to drive the dc motor for the throttle plate. I've never heard of an optically encoded variant. When a fault is detected there are a number of different failure modes depending on the system you have. But reduced power, revs being slow to react and also rev limiting are common. The dealer will be able to tell you what codes the car has set, what make/model is it ? Jon Ex Beaulieu no31 and now ex Supersport R......so 7less at the moment My Caterham Pics
  10. I can't confirm it for sure but usually TMAP sensors have a precision 5V reference voltage from the ECU. Jon Ex Beaulieu no31 and now ex Supersport R......so 7less at the moment My Caterham Pics
  11. Definately sounds like a temp sender failure to me. It is located as described/shown above and is the small brass threaded part. The other part next to it with the brown or black connector is the temp sender for the ECU which thankfully is about 1,000,000 times as reliable as it is actually used for something important. You can check the gauge operation (again as mentioned) by removing the connector (green wire I think) and touching it against the engine block, the gauge should show max temp. The temperature sensors are about £8 from Caterham and are not difficult to change so long as you don't overtighten them......... Jon Ex Beaulieu no31 and now ex Supersport R......so 7less at the moment My Caterham Pics
  12. Enjoy the car Matthew Jon Ex Beaulieu no31 and now ex Supersport R......so 7less at the moment My Caterham Pics
  13. Now up to over £2,000,000 Jon Ex Beaulieu no31 now Supersport R.. My Caterham Pics
  14. Temp sender would be my guess.......in the past I have also had to replace the water rail Jon Ex Beaulieu no31 now Supersport R.. My Caterham Pics
  15. Same here Jon Ex Beaulieu no31 now Supersport R.. My Caterham Pics
  16. Actually they are £31.27 inc VAT here Jon Ex Beaulieu no31 now Supersport R.. My Caterham Pics
  17. All Does anyone know if the wiring to the top fuses (e.g. rad fan and heated windscreen) in the fuse box are all coded as GREEN = Post Fuse WHITE = Pre Fuse Also is it OK to attach a cigarette lighter to the post fuse wire on the heated screen ? The biggest current draw will most likely be a Road Angel 2 Cheers in advance Ex Beaulieu no31 now Supersport R.. My Caterham Pics
  18. Another vote for the Supersport R from me.......... Jon Ex Beaulieu no31 now Supersport R.. My Caterham Pics
  19. Yep, Roller Barrels....Rxxx because they are fitted to the R300, R400 and R500 cars My girlfriend has the same problem when she drives my car, you just need to learn to drive round it. I find that being a bit more on/off wih the throttle at lower speeds helps i.e. come off the throttle completely or be a bit more aggressive with it when accelerating rather than tickling it. The worst example is the speed hump in my road, if you hit that with your foot resting on the throttle in 1st you kangaroo all over the place The moral of the story is don't use light throttle, a little bit more is always more fun anyway Jon Ex Beaulieu no31 now Supersport R.. My Caterham Pics
  20. Another thumbs up for coversystems 😬 from me Jon Ex Beaulieu no31 now Supersport R.. My Caterham Pics
  21. Provisionally SOLD to Chissy (who Niftys post was on behalf of)........ Jon 😬 Ex Beaulieu no31 now Supersport R.. My Caterham Pics Edited by - j_thombs on 1 Jun 2004 15:28:26
  22. Nifty, Luke YHM Jon Ex Beaulieu no31 now Supersport R.. My Caterham Pics
  23. All Just removed from my 7 are the following 13" alloy wheels 2x 6x13" Black centred with alloy rim (Standard Caterham type) - 6" rim width fronts (suitable for a de-dion car (4.1/4 PCD)) 2x 7x13" Black centred with alloy rim (Standard Caterham type) - 7" rim width rears (suitable for a de-dion car (4.1/4 PCD)) On the 6" rims are worn CR500 tyres with about 1.5-2mm above the wear bars on the outer edge and middle and just wear bars on the inner edge. The tyres are NOT road legal but probably have a couple of trackdays left in them. There are no tyres on the rear 7" rims. All the wheels have Caterham centre caps and have balance weights on them that have not changed since they came off the car last Friday. All have some sign of water ingress under the alloy laquer (seems common with these) and could do with a minor refurb on the non black portion, however if you are not that fussed then these would be perfect for a set of track alloys 😬 or get them refurbished and they will look lovely as road wheels. And the price to you for 4 wheels and 2 tyres..........£175....and I'll give £25 of it to NTL They are at Caterham (Dartford) at the moment but will be back with me in S.Essex mid week so they can be collected from either place or I'll send them via parcelforce but I guess that will probably cost a packet. Jon Ex Beaulieu no31 now Supersport R.. My Caterham Pics Edited by - j_thombs on 31 May 2004 23:26:28 Edited by - j_thombs on 31 May 2004 23:27:02
  24. Cagey H The supersport R upgrade was/is priced in Low Flying (Dec 2003) as being "from £3,295". The argument over resale value has been done loads on here recently, my car has the Caterham upgrade and I'm extremely happy with it and I use it as a daily drive, I can't however comment on it before as it has had it since new (it was the Caterham development car for this upgrade). The car was a 1.6 and then had the work as detailed below + some of the optional extras so is now a 1.8. I've done 3,500 miles since November and the car hasn't really missed a beat and if anything has loosend up really nicely (now at 15k). All the power is usable on the road and the delivery is really linear, I have also driven a low mileage R300 and if anything it was loads slower, I would however imagine when that loosens up they will be pretty much the same in terms of engine feel. Jimmyslr - For what it is worth my car has an superlight chassis and an R300 engine as per the VIN description on the 7FAQ so figure that one out 😬 I'll just have to change the decals before I sell it There are definately upgrades that offer similar/better performance for the money as the Caterham one is relatively expensive and allthough it could arguabley do with some mapping work which the other paths may allow it gets my vote. Jon Ex Beaulieu no31 now Supersport R.. My Caterham Pics Edited by - j_thombs on 31 May 2004 23:01:51
  25. Bah mine has failed aswell tonight........only 2500 miles after I put the last one in I'll add it to the list of special Caterham consumables like water/oil temp senders Jon Ex Beaulieu no31 now Supersport R.. My Caterham Pics
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