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Graham Howard

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Everything posted by Graham Howard

  1. Hi Richard I would be interested to know details of the proximity sensor and how you wired it to the standard electronic speedo instead of the gearbox sensor. I don't have the same problem but would like to solve once and for all the oil leak from the gearbox sensor. I was thinking of buying a Racetech speedo but your solution sounds better, and lower cost. Many thanks Graham
  2. Nigel I did this mod on my car about 7 years ago and I think the alternator could be removed from underneath. I also have an Appolo tank. Very straightforward to take the alternator apart, no springs to fly out. You may to loosen the primaries from the engine to give yourself a bit more space.
  3. Yes I had exactly that problem. The solution is to remove the alternator, split apart and reassemble with the connector rotated 180 degrees. This puts the connection further away from the front primary.
  4. Andrew I have one taking up space in my garage which you are welcome to. It is in good condition. Graham
  5. Thanks Mike. Probably didn't send mine in early enough.
  6. Just had an email to say my entry has been rejected. They had over 200 entries apparently! Perhaps Chris can throw some light on how competitors were selected. Has anybody been notified that they are in? Graham
  7. Get better soon Roger, somebody else will have to do the gardening at Curborough now.
  8. Hi Richard The third place one is probably mine and I will be at Goodwood. Thanks Graham
  9. Mark I also had the emails but no passes. I can't imagine that there will be anybody checking when we arrive at 7 ish . I wouldn't worry.
  10. Just to update. I have changed my order to 8 ply as most of you suggested. I don't want to risk not getting to an event , or worse, because of blow tyre. Thanks again for all the advice.
  11. Hmmm. Thanks guys. Mini tyres already ordered. Hopefully OK as I do keep to the speed limits.
  12. Thanks Roger. I will look for mini tyres.
  13. My PRG trailer came with cross ply tyres 145 x 10 6 ply , and the current ones are Deli brand . These seem to last about 2 to 3 years and I have always bought cross ply's as replacements. Looking at the tyres today they all have cracks in the tread so they need to be changed. I think most people use radials these days and I have found the Marshall KR11 referenced in other threads. What 10" Trailer tyres are people using and where is the best place to buy them? Luckily the A539's on the Caterham should do another season!
  14. A certified ROPS is a required for road going Caterhams in Sprint events. It is the FHR (frontal head restraint) which is not mandatory for road going cars and this is what may need adjustment of the harness positions. Graham
  15. If you click Register on the top bar of the Harewood site you can create a login.
  16. Philip Why not join class 2? We are all gentlemen and a set of tyres is only £200.
  17. Just echoing the above.....many thanks to Paul and Chris for organising an excellent season. Looking forward to next year.
  18. Also agree with Chris. The WSCC classes are very much aligned to the regional championships based on engine capacity and the cars are already close to mod prod spec. Our championship has successfully been designed to be as inclusive as possible and I think that classes 1-4 at least should be road going so that new competitors have to do as little to their car as possible. And I think for most of us the fun of competing is trying to get a better time on the day than the rest of the class. If everybody is on tyres that are 1 to 2 seconds slower than last year does that make it any less enjoyable? Tyre regs will change again in 2 to 3 years when F rated tyres are banned but we should deal with that when the time comes.
  19. I also thought that Alan's proposal was to complicated, but with the simplified wording it sounds ideal. The points system makes it fair across all classes and gets round any regulation changes that effect times (e.g tyres).
  20. I think we should seriously consider merging 2 and 3 but not next year. Let's see how much difference there is between the new 1b tyres and 1a tyres. Thus should become apparent early next season. David makes a valid point about the being no class for cars around 175bhp. This could be the new class 3 on 1b tyes with class 2 at 150bhp also on 1b tyres. There would then be a good spread of power limits from class 1 to class 4 with any road going car able to be competitive. Personally I would not walk away if forced to buy new tyres and I think it would be the same for all regular competitors who are similarly addicted.
  21. I agree that we should keep at least classes 1 to 4 as inclusive as possible and that means keeping them as road going. We should see this as an opportunity to attract more competitors as many will already have decent tyres from the new 1b list. Those who are already addicted would probably equip themselves with whatever tyres are demanded by the regulations. It is the new or casual entrant we need to think about. I don't see any need to change the tyre regs for classes 3 and 4, just go with the new 1b list. Classes 5 and 6 are always going to have small entries and there may be a case for non road going. We cannot predict what is going to happen in 2 years time, technology may move on so that we have E rated tyres better than the current F rated. Just a few thoughts from class 2 ......having used 3 different types of tyre over the last 5 seasons. Graham
  22. Well done to all the class winners and thanks to Paul and Chris for organising. We should count ourselves lucky to have such a great team doing the organising and scoring. Graham
  23. OK I give in. Nice photos Becky. There will inevitably be several people mising their braking at Fallow this weekend so the trowel should be easy to pass on.
  24. I was just trying a slightly tighter line at Farmhouse . I belive that at least 2 others in class 2 left the tarmac on that run. Not a clear cut decision....
  25. Should fit. The cups above the dampers will need some spacers and you will need some M10 bolts with the heads thinned down to clear the top of the dampers. I have a metric roll cage on an imperial chassis and I am assuming the mountings on a roll bar are the same.
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