AndrewGP

Two cycling bits no longer required: Specialized Air Tool MTB Bicycle Pump 78cc seen here but in Bronze, not Black. In excellent condition, just one tiny scratch on the barrel. Perfect working order, only selling as I've got a road bike now with a smaller mini-pump. Fits both Presta and Schrader. I don't have the frame bracket though. £14 posted. Specialized 700c x28/38 Presta Valve Inner Tube. Never used, brand new. £4 posted.

Thanks John Roger, to get the sharp fold I simply removed the soft jaws from my vice, clamped it up and folded it over! It was no more difficult than that. Agreed it does look like the ACES mount but I guess it's the right design for the job

Some may remember I asked in this thread here about the optimum place to mount the DRE shift lights. http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5471/11372833023_07138c9349_b.jpg Well, after a good deal of thought and some procrastination, I made up a bracket to fit, as being a fussy bugger, I didn't want them on the dash using to the side of the wheel. Any such bracket can't be symmetrical though, as obviously the scuttle isn't level at the point you need to mount the lights with the centre LED central above the wheel. That said, Mk1 bracket was measured, cut, drilled, made up (from some scrap ali) and powdercoated whilst doing some other bits... http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7292/12302712503_8778f36b90_b.jpg http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3759/12303141036_76ac775fde_b.jpg However, when I came to fit it, it didn't work :( Unfortunately, the rivets holding it on to the scuttle would have gone straight through the chassis tube, so it was back to the drawing board for Mk2, d'oh! This is shaped like the standard CC bracket, ie to take the mounting point back (but not too far so it fouls the aeroscreen!). Again this was made from scrap ali by hand. http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3734/12302021944_06933f714e_b.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7448/12302092796_544cea4352_b.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7310/12301502485_b8b12b2442_b.jpg This was then folded and painted with Hammerite, then rivetted to the scuttle having measured it EXTREMELY carefully! Finally it was wired in under the dash. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7412/12301644723_ab2cf3501e_b.jpg http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5534/12301653143_001e40d7aa_b.jpg http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3718/12301899634_27f6c3c6d4_b.jpg Pretty pleased with the result. If anyone wants to do similar, let me know and I'll email you the template. You'll notice I've drilled into the case by a couple of mm which is just enough for the tiny bolts to grip it whilst fitted :)

Thanks gents Had visions of the axle falling out when pressing on if I assembled it wrong 😬 As an aside Ian I tried to seat the bearing cups in the hubs with your oven and freezer suggestion in the archives to no avail. Have to get them pressed in next week 😔 If anyone ever suggests refreshing the front suspension is a quick and easy job they're either a liar or very, very lucky 😔

Quick question for the POBC, when the uprated post 2003 stub axles (from the Hub Upgrade Kit) go in to the uprights, does the shoulder of the stub axle have to be flush with the back of the upright? My local garage pressed them in but stopped due to them not going any further, leaving the stub axle shoulder 1mm recessed from the back of the upright. In addition I'm confused as the instructions I have for the Kit don't mention it, they simply say: Attach the steering tie rod (2) to Vertical link (1) using bolt (13) and spring washer (18) pass the bolt through the tie rod, the tie rod spacer shim (14) and into the vertical link. Pass the tapered end of stub axle (3) through the vertical link and the tie rod then secure using plain washer (17) and nyloc nut (11). Torque: Bolts (15) to 25lb ft (34NM) Can anyone who's fitted the upgraded hubs shed any light?

☹️ Not sure what I can do to loosen them Simon, as I said above, I've taken the powdercoat off the face of the wishbones so is it worth speaking to Powerflex to get thinner white washers?

The wishbones weren't plastic coated just blasted and powdercoated. I've just been out to the garage and to give you an idea of high tight they are, after torqueing the bolts up, I can just about move the wishbones with one finger. Once deflected in this way, they stay were they are, ie they don't droop. Does that sound too tight? If so, I guess I could remove them all and remove some powdercoat? Edited to add, I'm being stupid, we removed all the powdercoat from the faces of the wishbones as they didn't fit the first time we tried. Edited by - grenpayne on 24 Jan 2014 10:33:43

Thanks Simon, it's powerflex that I've fitted. Will torque them up with the car on it's wheels as you suggest

Simonpa, yes it does I guess thinking about it the metalastic bushes can't do their job unless they are preloaded. Simon, yes that makes sense too, although with the white nylon thrust washers in place at either end of the polybush, none of the fittings are what I would call 'frictionless', they are actually quite tight in the chassis hangars. Does this sound correct to you?

As some of you will be aware I'm part way through my lengthy and quite detailed winter refresh. With quite a bit of help from Geoff Brown yesterday ( ) we're pretty much done getting the freshly powdercoated and polybushed front suspension back on the car. My question is why do we torque the suspension bolts up to effectively pre-load the suspension to horizontal? Why does it not get torqued up so that the whole lot is floppy and just allow the spring and damper to do it's job? Potentially numpty question I know but chatting to a mate at work who has a Westie, he reckons this is how his car is set up

I did exactly the same as Titanium7 (except I used 2mm connectors not 3mm as I already had some), nice, quick and easy to change over.

In truth, you'll not really know whether it's for you until you've tried it. I tried it, loved it and sold the windscreen and doors 😬 That was over 2 years ago now and I love it. It adds to the sense of occasion, increases the sensation of speed by some margin and makes the car feel much more like a little racing car. I also love the way other road users look at you when you're aero'd as if you're slightly mad! The only way I'd ever go back to a windscreen is if/when my 7 year old son wants to come out with me in the car.

Thanks chaps Shaun, I did do a search and found that thread. I will use silicone but I'd rather not butcher the baseplate ...yet 😬 Roger and Ian, photos, would be very much appreciated, thank you

Having just spent the last 45 minutes unsuccessfully trying to figure out how the end plate goes on the shortened footwell, could anyone tell me how it's done, preferably with pictures? I'd like to think I'm not completely stupid and I know one side needs bending but which side and which way. Why CC don't supply it actually shaped to fit is beyond me! To add insult to injury mine is only bent on 2 sides, not 3 as per the CC website picture, here, so does the plate need bending on all four sides? http://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/img/p/3493-3467-thickbox.jpg Also, while we at it, how the hell does the external sump tank mounting plate fit it? I cannot for the life of me work it out http://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/img/p/1469-1469-thickbox.jpg 😔

Steve, what year is it and what colour is it?

Yes indeed I have, removed it a few days ago. YHM

Halfords Battery Maintenance/Trickle Charger. As new condition and works perfectly, selling only as it isn't suitable for charging my new Gel/AGM Battery. It did a fine job of keeping my old 12v Banner Battery charged though, including several months of not using the car earlier this year. There are two fused terminations supplied with it, either of which can be plugged in to the charger, normal crocodile clips on one lead and a Tamiya style plug on the other. Looks like this: http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Car-Battery-Trickle-Maintenance-Charger-Halfords-/00/s/MTYwMFgxMjAw/z/zv8AAMXQQQZR4vSm/%24T2eC16FHJHoFGk05G,k(BR4vSmbuU!~~60_35.JPG £15 plus postage at cost. Edited by - grenpayne on 17 Dec 2013 13:37:33

My thoughts exactly when I read the thread title 😬 🙆🏻

Just had my six-speeder refreshed at Road & Race and the cost was £270+VAT. I took the engine and box out myself (with a little help from a friend!) so your €300 seems very reasonable. For info, I had all the seals changed, a new 3rd gear synchro, the collets and other sundries replaced. They also installed a bush on the rear shaft that's been absent since the box was manufactured

Yep, I ordered some a few days ago and got the same discount too

Thanks chaps and also to those who emailed me pictures, great stuff and really useful 😬

My plan is to mount the battery where the heater used to be on the bulkhead as the DS easiclean tank is going in the shortened passenger footwell.

Ian, tank and bulkhead would be great. Obviously I've got your guide but I need to reposition the (new gel) battery, loom, catch tank and ecu and just wondered how others had done it.

Quite right Dave

Chaps, any chance of seeing some engine bay pictures of the external (easiclean) tank installs for the K Series? I'm moving things about (battery, catch tank, ecu etc) and I'm after a few ideas that will satisfy my OCD tendencies for neat and tidiness! Many thanks.