Graham King

Folks, appreciate a little bit of advice here please. I am trying to help out my neighbour who is in the process of rebuilding a Tiger Cub (7 esque), he has replaced the suspension as the old dampers were siezed. He replaced these with quality new adjustable units of the same length and new springs (supposedly of the same rating, 300lbs). It has been on axle stands for months but he took it down yesterday and it is ridiculously low (we're talking front is approx 40mm off the floor ☹️). I have little experience of suspension but a couple of points worth noting. 1) The lower wishbones are below parallel to the ground 2) Trying to raise the ride height by adjusting the suspension just results in the springs compressing, it doesn't raise the car 3) Jacking the car up to what would look like a decent ride height (70mm under the sump) has the lower wishbones above parallel with the floor I have done some searching on here and some threads mention mounting the dampers upside down to raise the ride height, why would this have any effect?. I guess he needs stronger springs to stop the effect in point 2?. Would elongating the dampers have any effect? Does anyone have any suggestions or is able to offer any insight into this for me. He has spent so much time getting it back into a decent state, and has made a lovely job of it, I'd like to be able to help him out. Graham.

Simon, can I just check please re the Carbon Rear wings, have you really got 2 offside wings for sale or have you by chance misposted and one is actually a nearside, so you have a pair. I know it's a remote chance but just in case, if so I am interested in the pair. Thanks. Graham.

Jon, this evening is an excellent evening, I've done it a couple of times and will be there again. There will be some experienced drivers out there but there is usually a good number of first time/occasional track day drivers (myself included). A spare set of wheels with some old tyres is good but if you don't have these or can't get them there then just make sure you don't completely trash the ones you need to drive home on. Apart from that some coolant, oil etc is a good idea. The Dunsfold day will be just before this so if you haven't tried your car on track before that is a great way of doing it for the first time before you go on track proper. Brands Hatch is a great circuit and I find an evening session is enough for me. Come along and enjoy it. Graham.

four20, I'm pretty certain these are worth some money now, particularly to the historic race crowd. I have a feeling you may be pleasantly surprised as to how much you can get towards your Zetec conversion. I'm sure someone in the know will be along shortly to enlighten you more. Graham.

Mankee, here is the original thread I started a few years ago on this. You will note in the thread that DVA does offer to fabricate one that worked if there was enough interest. I did speak to Dave about this but in the end it didn't go anywhere. Personally I would still be interested if it could be revived. Graham.

Mankee, I had the same dilemma as you. After my first track day with Apollo and no baffle where the OP drops away alarmingly on right hand bends, I managed to find a 2nd hand Hellier baffle and fitted that also making the gasket mods from DVA. To be honest I'm not sure it really has much effect, maybe it drops away slightly less but it's not that noticeable. I have left it in as it certainly doesn't have a negative effect. On track the OP still drops away seemingly as it did without one fitted, the biggest impact on OP seems to be the correct level rather than any baffle effect, I now tend to overfill slightly if on track. I tend to agree with Stu that a dry sump is the only answer but apart from cost they are no real options available on the market anymore, so unless you can find a 2nd hand one then you are a bit stuck. Graham.

Thanks for the responses folks, seems like generally good experiences so I think I'll give it a go, as was commented got nothing to lose really. Graham

Folks, I run an old (2000) Skoda Octavia 1.9 Diesel Estate that we use for the dogs and general running around, to cut a long story short I am told it requires a new clutch and DMF, this is expensive (approx £750 all done, the DMF and Clutch is £450-500) and probably almost as much as the car is worth. I notice Eurocarparts market a solid flywheel conversion kit for £150 that would obviously save me a significant sum of money. I spoke to the garage that made the original diagnosis and they are more than happy to fit the kit but said they can't warranty the work as they have heard of situations where this has caused the crankshaft to break. Does anyone have any experience of this type of conversion? Thanks. Graham.

RJ/Martin, thanks for the responses, I think you've shown me enough to prove that it's probably a) beyond my schoolboy electronics knowledge and b) would work out more expensive than I'm prepared to do. I think I'll revert back to the original plan of replacing the dash with original switchgear. Thanks again. Graham.

Folks, would appreciate some advice from those that have already done or understand what needs to be done. I'm going to replace my ratehr tired looking dash and switches on my 99 SL. I'm weighing up wether to change to the later dash layout that uses the Savage Motorsport Aluminium switches. I've read up on the threads I can find on this but many of them reference websites that are no longer available. I appreciate that the Savage switches are 6A not 12A like the current standard switches and I've read the posts that talk about the amount of wiring that has to be done but can anyone explain what I would need to do for each switch please. Do I need to wire in a resistor into each switch circuit or does each one need a separate relay or some other setup. I am initially trying to work out the approx cost to do the job and if I can do it myself. The switches are approx twice the price of standard switches so overall don't add that much to the cost. Any advice appreciated. Graham.

Bradders, I had a C220CDI for 4 years, the change when cold was not as smooth as when it had warmed up, guess it depends how bad "jerky" is. The box does have separate oil and it is supposed to be changed along with the filters at 40K (from memory). I was advised by the independent Merc specialist that used to service mine that it was highly advisable to have this done as it could cause accelerated wear if not done. Graham.

It won't affect start up, at cold start that part of the ECU map will use engine temp indicators to control fuel. Once its all warm then the lambda sensor will come into play. It try's to keep the Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) within a certain range (0.97- 1.03 from memory). Ideal AFR is I think 14.1 parts air to 1 part fuel, so the range is a ratio of this measure. This is tested at MoT time and is a fail if outside range. Are you in touch with the previous owner, might be worth asking them why it's disconnected. The most important aspect of emissions at MoT is to make sure the cat is REALLY hot, then it works best. I think I would be inclined to try MoT as it is and see where emissions are then work out a course of action if there is an issue. Graham

The best place for a lambda sensor is at the point where all 4 branches of the manifold meet, in this way the sensor is taking a balance of all cylinders. In an elongated header system (like the R300 system) this will be outside the car, this a) isn't very neat and b) requires extra length wiring so most people put it in header 4 inside the engine bay. It is obviously only measuring the AFR of cyl 4 but is generally good enough. You can run systems with 2 lambda sensors but the ECU will need to be able manage this properly, the standard k-series ECU can't do this. You can run without the lambda but the ECU will use a default setting. I'm not sure what Z+F do to the ECU though so can't say what the impacts will be on your setup. Graham.

If you are removing the engine anyway then it will be easy to replace the stat, you have 3 options to consider; 1) Replace stat as is. If you do this drill a small (3mm) hole in it. It will reduce the need to bleed in the future as it will aloow air locks to bleed past the closed stat. 2) Install a PRRT. Rimmer Bros do these. Plenty in archives about installation and benefits. 3) Install a PRT. Think Auto do these. Also plenty in archives. I have one of these and used to be a big fan but now not completely convinced if you are driving in cold weather. They're excellent for summer and track days though. 2 & 3 are both similar and have the benefit of using a remote stat that is easy to relpace in the future. Whichever one you choose, also consider the temp stat you want to use. Graham.

db, I think what you describe, supports what Mav and I said about cold air flow causing the issue. I would do a stationary warm up over the weekend and check the hoses warm as expected and the temps look fine. If so I would leave it alone and maybe consider blanking off the lower portion of the rad/nose cone to restrict airflow in the colder weather. Graham.

db, 100 sounds really hot for normal running, I suspect the gauge isn't that accurate as at that temp the fan would be on permanently. It should run at (or around) the stat opening temp. I have a K and it runs about 80 (I have an 82 degree stat). The gauge and the fan work off different sensors, the gauge sensor is in the water rail, the fan sensor is in the rad. You're correct it is easier to try to bleed than change the stat (it is very difficult to get at). If it were me I would do the following: 1) Let it all cool down and make sure the heater control is open 2) Remove the cap from the expansion tank, remove the screw in the top of the rad, undo the heater hose that connects to the water rail 3) Gently pour some coolant in the hose that you have just undone until water starts to come out of the hole in the top of the rad. 4) Put the rad bleed screw back in and put the hose back on to the heater 5) Grab hold of the bottom hose and manipulate it (a lot) 6) If any air comes out top it back up through the header tank 7) Warm it all up gently feeling all the hoses as they warm, keeping an eye on the temp Graham.

db, the stat does block flow but it shouldn't block it as far back as the bottom hose, the stat opens as the water temp on the inlet side of it reaches a specified temperature (82-88 depending on what stat you have fitted). So the bottom hose should get warm even if the stat is jammed. However in this really cold weather I suppose it is possible that the combination of cold air flow and fan running constantly may have allowed the bottom of the rad to cool down significantly. The fan is controlled by the temp switch in the rad so some part of your rad is hot enough to trigger this (approx 96 from memory). What temp did the gauge indicate? did it continue to rise until you switched off or did it stabilise? Did you see what happened if you stayed stationary and ran the engine (i.e. did the bottom hose get warm). Graham.

Jason, yhbm (I hope)

Jason, on the assumption it's one of these then I'll take it please, I assume it will fit in the back of an estate car. How quickly do you want it collected? Graham.

Callum, that's normal behaviour, in stationary traffic with no airflow over the radiator the water temp will raise until it reaches the fan switch activation temp (98 I think on a k). Fan will stay on until it reaches the lower, switch off temp, it will cycle round that until you start moving again. The fan switch is in the rad (brass hex head from memory) and will have 2 temps stamped on it so you can look at what yours is rated at as their different ones. Your red overheating light, I suspect is simply telling you the fan is on not that it's overheating (I assume it's not the alternator light glowing due to the greater current draw). Graham

TomB, I certainly wouldn't use a trolley jack on the floor section of your tt, the sill will have been strengthened where the jack is designed to go, so either do as JK suggests and make up a wooden or rubber shim to match the shape of the standard jack or find somewhere under the car that is already load bearing. Graham.

I'd like to explain it properly but not sure I can either, the attached article here, goes some way towards it. Basically offset is the distance in mm from the centreline of the wheel to it's actual mounting face. So I guess that everything else being equal wheels with different offsets will fit (i.e. can be bolted on) but the car will not necessarily handle as fully intended. Graham.

According to the mytyres website this is the spec of the 14" wheel of a Fiesta: 5½ x 14 4 x 108.00 x 63.30 ET: 43.50 4-hole steel wheel (6285). Have to be honest and say I don't know what the dedion 14" specification is. Graham.

MOCA2CV, I would have thought 14" wheels off any boggo Fiesta would fit ok. Graham.

Ivaan, I would be interested subject to confirmation of final price etc. Graham.