Graham King

David, not sure if the bulk buy conditions affect this, but when I spoke to Powerspeed they could modify the existing silencer/cat to fit onto their manifold. Also I thought one of the options on the bulk buy was a silencer with less restrictive cat manufactured by Powerspeed. I am sure others have first hand experience but I doubt that you would notice any difference by having the cat in or out. I guess it depends on how much of a pain it would be for you to swap the whole exhaust system over at each MOT. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

Tony, my wife has a Cooper 'S', when we bought it, I tried the car both on 17" and 16" wheels, my opinion it handled much better on the 16" than it did on 17's. The 17's looked great but did lead to tramlining and a 'bouncier' ride IMO. I am fairly certain that on the Cooper the 17's also come with Sports Plus suspensions as well, which lowers the ride height a bit so this probably won't help either. In summary a change to 16" wheels will help, it still tramlines a bit but not unacceptably to my tastes. Can't comment on the tyre pressure regulator, but I would guess a faulty sensor that should be fairly easily fixable. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

Delbert, I have same engine as you and am planning vernier and exhaust upgrades myself so they seem fine. The fact that you are fitting a Laminova, does this mean you already have an Apollo tank, if so fine, if not I would have thought this was more important in terms of engine protection than a Laminova (this is just an oil cooler isn't it?). I think the Apollo is about 300 pounds fitted from Caterham. Just my thoughts. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

I have the same issue (1.8Kss), I may be imagining it but the car seems to run on when the radiator fan is running, whereas if fan not running car seems to stop immediately. Is the fan ECU switched (or does it inform ECU that it is running) or is it direct from stat 🤔. I always wondered if this was something to do with it. Not really answered question but has anyone else noticed any correlation. R7 GPK Superlight #85

Michael, in theory it is possible using your method, but in order to work out the gear ratios you would have to know the diff ratio as the two compound together to rotate the wheel (again in theory you could work this out if you knew one of your gears was 1:1 ratio) but I would be doubtful if you could measure the wheel rotation accurately enough to get a true representation of gear ratio. As previously suggested I reckon your best bet is to post on here what gearbox you have and someone is bound to know what rations you have. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

Phil, thanks for the reply, I do use 10/40 Semi Synthetic all the time, about 10 litres in the last 5000 miles. ❗ If I had a blocked breather, where can I find this on an XE engine, would this cause high consumption, if so can anyone explain how 🤔 Just so that I understand, if I flush the system, apart from cleaning everything out how might this help the consumption 🤔 Thanks. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

Folks, can anyone offer any opinions on the following problem I have with my tintop. Car is a 1999 Vauxhall Vectra 2.0 SRi (XE Engine I believe), done about 74,000 miles. Up until about 5,000 miles ago car used to use no oil, I never had to even top it up in between services (10,000 miles), then things changed for some reason, the car suddenly started using roughly 1 litre every 4-500 miles. This strikes me as one of two things, either it developed a leak or something caused it to start burning oil. However I can't find an oil leak, there is never any oil under the car, and it isn't noticeably burning anything (no blue smoke is coming out the exhaust). There doesn't appear to be any oil in the coolant or water in the oil, and the car drives ok. I have had two garages look at it and both have found nothing, the main dealer even tried to tell me that it was within the bounds of normal oil consumption. I am uncomfortable at just leaving it in case something goes bang (especially as I am due to take it, fully loaded, through France in 3 weeks time). Has anyone any ideas as to where a leak may be that means it doesn't show either on the engine or under the car, or how it could be burning oil without showing as smoke out the exhaust, or can someone suggest how I may start diagnosing where the problem lies. Any advice gratefully received. Thanks. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

Dave, I recently upgraded from a 1.8k (standard flywheel) to a 1.8kss (lightened flywheel), the engine feels much more responsive now, revs pick up much more freely than before, drop off is quicker as well. Tickover is not as smooth, how much is due to ss package and how much due to flywheel is difficult to tell, but given that one of the jobs of the flywheel is to balance this out it must have some impact. I do not find this a problem at all, the idle is set slightly higher to compensate. All in all, if I had the gearbox out I would do the change, mine is the Caterham offering so I can't comment on any other items. Given some of the horror stories that have been told on here before I would certainly make sure it was from a recognised source before buying anything else though. Can't help with the clutch I'm afraid. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

Out for a blat last night, been out about 30 minutes so everything nicely warmed up, went round a long tight right hander and then accelerated fairly hard up following straight but undulating road. As I accelerated a large pall of blue smoke came out the exhaust, I immediately backed out and then went gently back on the accelator and a smaller cloud of blue smoke came out. Oil pressure and oil and water temp were normal, I was about 3 miles from home so drove normally back, no smoke was emitted during this time and everything running fine. When I reached home took off bonnet and gave the engine a few blips. No oil anywhere under bonnet and no further smoke coming out exhaust. Engine 1.8Kss fitted with Apollo. Is this likely to have been caused by oil surge on the bend getting into the combustion chamber 🤔 or is there another cause that I should be more concerned about. 🤔 Any advice gratefully received. Thanks. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

Den, no they don't all do that, I have a 1.8SS and whilst it is definitely more "lumpy" at idle than my previous standard 1.8, it doesn't stall or get anywhere near to it. My idle is set to about 1000, is yours set lower 🤔 I have just had very similar issues on my tintop (not a rover engine, but I imagine principles are the same) and it turned out the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) needed replacing. I believe this helps control the air flow at idle. I know the K series has one but don't know how easy it is to replace. I am sure someone else can fill in the details though. Hope any of this helps. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

Thanks for all the replies guys, I currently have the standard CC rad, so I think I will have a look at fitting the Ali race rad and change the thermostat at the same time. I would just be happier if things ran a little cooler, I don't like the idea of overheating, having heard of all the damage this can do. Thanks again. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

Folks, car is a 1.8Kss SL (fitted with an Apollo tank) recently acquired from Caterham. I am looking for some advice on the coolant and oil temps, and specifically the relationship between the two. The coolant temp rises to normal operating temp, approx 82 within about a mile, the oil will take about 6 miles (of gentle driving) to come up to a temp of approx 80-85. All the time the oil stays at this temp the water temp is fairly constant, whilst sitting in traffic the fan is able to control this fairly easily at about 90 and behaves in what I would describe as a normal fashion. However as the oil temp rises so does the temperature of the coolant, the oil temp easily reaches 95-100 during spirited driving. At these oil temperatures the coolant temp is 90+ and the fan is cutting in during driving (judged as it is already running when coming to a halt), when at idle the fan appears to struggle to cope and can't seem to reduce the coolant temp (I have let the car idle for at least 5 minutes post blat, the fan was running the entire time and hadn't managed to reduce the temp). All the above measured at an ambient temp of approx 20. I have spoken to CC about this and they assure me everything is ok, but I feel uncomfortable that the coolant temperature behaves in this way. So a few questions:- 1) Do I have a problem or is this behaviour normal 🤔 2) Would an increased capacity radiator alleviate the symptoms 🤔 3) Would an oil cooler provide an answer 🤔 Thanks for any advice. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

Ok folks back at PC now, apologies for the confusion caused by posting twice. Having looked at all mails and offers, Grubster is the only one who has offered to take all of them, so assuming it is still on the table then I will go with that. Just to clarify the points made, I too bought these after reading Angus's write up on them, I too previously had Avon ZV1's. When I bought them initially last Summer, Polley could only get hold of 195/60's (they are actually more like 195/58, so the rolling circ is very close to a 185/60), so I bought 4 of them. I ran like this for rest of last year. Like Angus I felt the front was overtyred (on road anyway, can't say about track), I actually liked the slightly larger tyre on the back, particularly asthetically. So earlier on this year I bought 2 * 185/60 for the fronts. My plan was to stick to 195's on the back as I estimated that they would last approx half the life of the fronts. But before I used the car this year I traded it in for a Superlight. They certainly transform the car over the standard tyres which I put back on prior to trade in. Grubster YHM and apologies again to those I confused. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

RobF, I would like to sell the whole lot as a package rather than splitting, however if Grubbster wants the 4 * 195/60 then I am happy to deal with you on the 2 * 185/60. Otherwise Grubbster has first dibs. Grubbster, these would in my view make ideal track day combinations, the wheels are not damaged, but could do with a polish. I will be away from PC for a couple of hours but let me know how you want to proceed. Thanks. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

Sorry folks posted it to Techtalk by mistake, have reposted on For Sale. Will reply on For Sale to Rob F and Grubbster. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

I have recently traded in my Roadsport with 14" wheels for a Superlight with 13" wheels so have the following as surplus to requirements. 6 * Yoko A048R - £230 2 * 185/60 R14 (unused) 4 * 195/60 R14 (less than 400 road miles, 2 have 4.5mm tread (off rears), 2 still read approx 5mm on depth guage(off fronts)) 5 * KN Jupiter 6x14" (no tyres, fit DeDion) - £60 (in reasonable condition) If someone wants the whole package then £260. I am in Surrey, approx 6 miles south of M25 J6. Buyer collects or will meet within reasonable distance. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

I have recently traded in my Roadsport with 14" wheels for a Superlight with 13" wheels so have the following as surplus to requirements. 6 Yoko A048R - £230 2 * 185/60 R14 (Unused) 4 * 195/60 * R14 (all done less than 400 road miles, 2 have 4.5mm tread and the others still read approx 5mm on the depth guage) 5 * KN Jupiter 6 x 14" (no tyres) fit DeDion (in reasonable condition) - £60 Or if someone wants the whole lot £260 Buyer collects, I am in Surrey about 6 miles south of M25 J6. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

Adam, did you get my mail 🤔 Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

Adam, YHM. Grham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

BTT R7 GPK Superlight #85

Adam, I have 5 of these in my garage (all without tyres), will fit Dedion. £50 for the lot. I am about 10 miles from Caterham. Let me know. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

David, did you get my second mail 🤔 Thanks. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

Thanks for all the replies, mine is a 99 car so is EU2 so the shift light should work, I will give RobF's suggestion a try and see what happens. I think I am right in saying that all Superlights had the Supersport engines installed (but I may well be wrong), it also has a lightened flywheel which does tend to make the revs rise and fall quickly whilst in motion. I had a standard 1.8K Roadsport before and the difference in engine responsiveness (and engine braking) is noticeable. Anyway thanks for all the advice I will give them a go. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

BTT R7 GPK Superlight #85

RobF, it was certainly sold to me as a Supersport (by Caterham) and has the red cam cover insert saying Supersport, I definitely have a shift light that (doesn't light up), wether that is because I can't get the revs high enough or because it isn't working I can't tell, I suppose that is the real question behind my original post. I am certain that the rev limiter is cutting in below 7400, as the Minister page and BOSS state it should, exactly where is difficult to tell as it all happens a bit quickly, unless the tacho is reading incorrectly. Is there any other way of telling (visually), from the ECU etc that it is a Supersport. Thanks. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85