Rullingen

I have two EU3 IACV's but I need an EU2 type with 5 pins to work with my particular Emerald ECU. If anyone has one they could sell me or even swap for an almost new EU3 IACV that would be wonderful. Thanks, Rob.

Please could anyone supply a ECU map for an Emerald ECU fitted to a Roadsport with a stock 1600 k series? I'm fitting an Emerald in place of the standard ECU that I have had no end of issues with, and I just need a basic map to 'get me off the ground' so to speak without doing any harm to the engine.

Excellent. Thank you.

If I switch my EU3 MEMS for the Emerald, will there be issues with the immobiliser? Should it be removed or reprogrammed?

Thanks for the help. It does seem that, as suggested above, the pipe that went to the top of the radiator is omitted, and the pipe that tee'd in to it from the block now goes straight to the header tank. The new radiator requires bleeding from the bleed screw on the top left of the rad. Let's hope it works..... Best regards, Rob.

Hi, I'm fitting a new Radtec radiator to my 2007 K Series which is already fitted with a QED remote thermostat. The outgoing stock radiator has a smaller outlet at the top next to the inlet where there is a vent pipe returning to the top of the header tank. The incoming Radtec item does not have this connection. It's hard to believe they would have forgotten to fit it, so where should I route the vent pipe to? Thanks, Rob.

Is this item now sold? Rob.

This is all great information, and I thank you all. If the ECU regulates the IACV according to engine revs, why is mine reving so high and erratically at cold? Also, if the ECU ignors the O2 sensor for the first 30 seconds of running, and mine behaves particularly badly at first start up, does that not rule out the O2 sensor? Thanks, Rob.

So, the engine should run normally with the lambda sensor disconnected. In which case; if it runs rough with the lambda sensor connected and well with the lambda sensor disconnected I can assume the lambda sensor is faulty. Have I got this right? So will a fault with the lambda sensor only show itself when the engine is cold? Thanks, Rob.

Yes. It's a stock Caterham k series exhaust.

I don't think so. It sounds like the IACV is opening and shutting somewhat erratically. That's why I changed it last year, I thought it was sending 'bad' position info back to the ECU, but the new one doesn't seem to be any better, Also, the warmer it gets, the better it behaves.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/K4tASXwd48uuRpoz6 This link is to a video I took earlier when the engine had been running for about two minutes. Initially it was worse than this. Reluctant to start, then would not pick up when the throttle was opened, and was sucking loads of air through the IACV. Last Autumn I changed the IACV for this reason, but now it seems worse than ever. I'm guessing this is sensor related. If I could find the OBD2 port I might get some clues as to what's going on, but I can't see one under the dash where it's supposed to be. Does anyone know what the cause of this problem is? Thanks, Rob.

"Correct - should be dangling somewhere near the steering column and is a large 16-way connector with nothing connected" Is this the ODBII standard connector or does one need to make an adaptor? Rob.

So what's the going rate for the full kit second hand? I have one I never found time to fit but I've no idea of its worth now.

Definitely not Jim. In fact it has only seen rain two, or maybe three days in its life. Rob.

I've now got the seal out from the input shaft tube. It's not damaged. It's a SIMBO 28 x 40 x 7mm seal. Not heard of SIMBO before. Not sure on quality. I shall change it anyway. I also noticed it is possible to rock the end of the input shaft up and down 2.5mm from extremity to extremity. I'm guessing this is normal and not indication of a worn bearing since the other end of the input shaft sits in the engine crank shaft. I also now understand the issue with the selector shaft leaking oil, although I didn't see any evidence that this is the cause of my leak.

Thank you all for your advice. It gave in the end with the handbrake freed off.

Pretty sure it's not the crank shaft seal. It's bone dry on the engine side of the flywheel. All of the plate is contaminated. Is it a strip down job to change that seal? I'm struggling to find literature on it. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Y4v5er1mpg9T8Xu43 ​Rob.

I have a 2007 Roadsport with and EU3 1600 k series married with a type 9 2.8 Ford gearbox. It’s done only about 21K miles. On the way home from Spain last year driving up through France I started to get clutch slip at max torque; in top gear. I got it home OK and haven’t had time to address the issue until now. I separated the engine and gearbox. The clutch looked clean and intact, but there was a light coating of oil across the whole of the inside of the bell housing. There was no evidence to show that this had come from behind the flywheel. When I separated the clutch from the flywheel I found the friction plate to be partially saturated in oil but very little on the clutch cover other than a small amount of oily clutch matter that had been thrown off the friction plate. The car has never deposited so much as a drop of oil on the garage floor. When I read accounts on these forums of oil leaking into the bell housing they all seemed to focus around the seals between the gearbox and bell housing, and the selector shaft in particular. I haven’t seen any that suggest a leak from the input shaft, straight on the centre of the clutch, but this seems to me to be the obvious source of the leak given that if it were at the face of the gearbox then the oil would just run down the inside of the bellhousing and find it’s way out. I can’t understand how it could end up on the clutch friction plate. Please, if I’m missing something crucial, could someone explain?

I don't suppose anyone still has the original Type 9 gearbox manual PDF that was offered on this thread? I could really do with it right now but the link seems to be dead.

The front and rear of the tunnel are completely free, but in the middle around the handbrake it feels like there's a Jack Russell got hold of it from underneath. I can get my fingers under the lip all the way along and there's nothing there, but the upholstery around the handbrake feels like it's still attached to something under the handbrake. I've tried to look from underneath but to see anything I'm going to have to get the prop shaft off.

No I haven't, but it's not coming up against the lever. I can't lift it that far, I was hoping to twist is through 90° so I wouldn't have to release the cable, but there's no chance. I can only lift it an inch. Do you suggest that the cable is the way to go? I have got the gear knob off OK.

Excuse my French but.. How the hell do you get the transmission tunnel top off of a k series? There is something holding it down around the handbrake, and I can't lift it enough to see what it is! Thanks, Rob.

I've got some ideas of what to take, but I won't reject advice. Rob.

I have always run my 2007 1600 K series (18K miles) on the Motorsport style oil like sold by Caterham. I think from memory it was 5W50. However the furthest I have driven it in one go is on the Chip shop run, and most trips are a lot shorter than that. I am about to embark on a trip with two friends with a 1980's 911 and a 1990's Morgan V8 that will take us from Santander in the north of Spain to the south of Spain and hopefully a lot of mountain road driving and covering 3K to 4K miles. I am wondering whether track day style oil is the most appropriate to start the journey with. Any thoughts on what I should do please... Regards, Rob.