elan_fan
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Everything posted by elan_fan
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Just had a session in the garage to do the cam timing. Oily's website says .080" lift at tdc for the inlet and .060" to .065" lift at tdc for the exhaust I get (with good repeatability) .080" on the inlet and .064" on the exhaust however a search reveals various thinking and the DVA website has not been updated for a few years, so.... am I bang on or do I need to dial the exhaust back to a consistant .060" as per other threads Mark
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Lefty loosey Righty tighty
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I couldn't tell you if there is a filter which fits on the backplate but I can tell you that the standard Caterham filter fits on the BS airbox. It requires an adaptor. I made one out of a piece of aluminium tube 70mm od and about 45mm long. I've still got loads of the tube left. I would say that if you were looking for 10 10ths then a rollling road is necessary when any change like that is made however in your state of tune I wouldn't' bother. Why the change from BS to pancake filter though? Mark
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Hi All, I would like to update my Seven in the wheel dept. I have 6x13 minator with 185/70x13 A021Rs. I would like to fit the Caterham wheels in 6x13 and 8x13 sizes. Was thinking about 185/60x13 front and 205/60x13 rears in A021R. Or should I go with the CR500s. Road use with the possibility of a track day. In all probability just road use (and not much of that judging by his years summer). Car is dedion widetrack K powered. If you have a better suggestion of tyre combination fire away. Mark
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Hi Thanks, msg sent regards Mark
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Does anyone have some ball park figures for initial prime and enrichment for a K6 and Jenveys. Just got it all back together after a light hgf. Been experimenting but obviously you only really get one shot at it being cold. Starts after a few revolutions but I was wondering if I had got it something like the pros. Thanks Mark
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clean and lubricate the speedo cable inner.
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get your aluminium plenum repaired and re fit it. Or fit a new plenum of the same type as the old one. Not much point in trying to re invent the wheel if it worked before.
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There is a nifty little mechanism inside with a cam and a clutch so that long pulls on the handbrake arm wind the mechanism out to take up the slack. The clutch part is there to prevent excessive adjustment i.e. giving you no free movement on the handbrake. you can simulate this on your caliper by winding the piston in with the tool and then operating the handbrake lever with a spanner and you will see the adjustment in the last bit of the lever movement. regards Mark
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52mm TB used for about 300 miles. Looks like new. Without TPS, old one will fit. Part number MHB000261 BM for a pic £85 delivered (to the UK)
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Fitted the DTH TBs last weekend. Re-filled with coolant (first time round had a tiny leak after a bit of a faf with the o ring on the stat housing requiring a new o ring and J hose). Fill is easy now with the QED remote stat. Loaded map and config supplied by Oily for a K16 upgrade and fired up. Went through the idle setup as described on Dave's website. 😶🌫️ Got to glass up the airbox where i've modded it a bit more for the clutch cable and fit the throttle cable. Pretty chuffed though so far and thanks to this 🙆🏻 weather I haven't missed blatting days due to engine down time.
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6 please Martyn Regards Mark
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Thanks for both the replies, it's a bit annoying but I guess hand made chassis and hand made airbox, there are no guarantees. Makes me feel better about cutting the hole.
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Got a bit of a problem, my airbox doesn't fit. Got a shim under the RHS engine mount totaling about 5mm. Any more and the front of the airbox won't fit under the nose (I will need to relieve the rim of the nose cone as it is). The rear of the airbox fouls on the cutch cable (it's miles away from the chassis diagonal) and as such sits about 10mm above where it should be. Has anyone had to modify the relief in the airbox even more or have I got a rogue chassis/pedal box/engine mount and nose cone. Chassis is imperial S3 regards Mark
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Bit of a delay due to other commitments but the Emerald is now fitted using a piece of aluminium 150mm x 220mm (just for info for anyone who's searching in the future) picking up on the original mounts for the Rover ECU. It fired up first time , and I have to say, checking the settings of an engine using a laptop perched in the top draw of the roll cab instead of messing about with points and mixture screws is pretty cool
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Yes I can feel the upgradeitis just starting to take hold. Plus I don't want to get left behind by you guys 😬 when I finally get out to a blat with you all (when the nice weather comes )
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Ordered K16 kit, Verniers and Airbox from DVA dave. Will be glued on to 1800 supersport. I'm looking forward to the result.
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You can't leave us hanging like that..tell us more
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Give us a clue Roger, how much do you want to spend. Here's a couple to thumb up or down Overclockers or HP Computers
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Ok easy to say I know but the amalgamated blatchat method of bleeding does work. However if you want to try the vacuum way that will work too I reckon. Either way I live in Telford and i'll give you a hand with both methods. Give us a shout if you want. Mark
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CC High Level Brake Light for cars without a spare wheel here Does anyone know if that fits onto an imperial car regards Mark
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I seem to remember the floors in Concorde were made from balsa wood wrapped in aluminium Isn't this material called Cellite and it was a material of choice pre carbon fibre in Formula 1 Colin loved the stuff regards Mark
