elan_fan

Rimmers have them part number EAP8713 from a rover 214/216. Just the small matter of the £71.

Just finishing the winter upgrade and am in the process coverting to wasted spark using the standard eu3 rover setup. Trying to do things as neat at possible as I hate to have extra wires spliced in here there and everywhere. I am using an Emerald and currently use pin 25 white/black for the single coil. I propose to move this to pin 12 (tacho output) so as to get my tacho to read correctly. Original coil plug (inc white/black) now redundant and cable tied up. I have redundant IACV wiring and so was going to move IACV 1 to pin 25 to be the signal for coil 1, IACV 2 to pin 5 to be the signal for coil 2. Now the question - there is a brown and pink 12v in the IACV plug that is common to the brown and pink 12v ign supply in pin 28 (as far as I can tell). I would like to use this brown/pink rather than the brown/pink in the original coil plug. The idea is to simply use the IACV loom to operate the coils but I need to know that the two brown/pinks are common.

I changed mine to 22% when I first got the car. It's perfectly ok for road use.

Lhs driveshaft inc bearing and hub/disc Rhs driveshaft ford type inc bearing and hub/disc Both s/h £110 each

Spokes work well and the short lengths used for the followers are very rigid. I used them to good effect. I cannot take any credit though as the lengths are dva and the idea of spokes I found on here somewhere. :)

Trot down to halfords and go to the bike bit and ask them for 3 or 4 stainless bicycle spokes. They even come with the correct thread on the end. Cut and bend to shape.

The stub axle has a taper so it doesn't need to be pressed into the upright. The nut will pull it in just fine. Presuming that you have cycle wings the stay is sandwiched between the steering arm and the nut. When it is together the nylon of the nut must be engaging the thread. The steering arm has a washer between the arm and upright where the bolt fixes. Mine uses the older axles so the arrangement of the front side is different.

The aluminium sleeve comes out easily, and the bushes are pushed out using a press. Edited by - elan_fan on 21 Jan 2014 09:26:43

Sensor that fits in the cam cover over the exhaust cam on an eu3 rover k. Preferably broken ( I only want it to fill the hole) better still an eu3 cam cover without the hole late vvc I think. Regards Mark

Mailed re vvc head Mark

have a read of this, I think that your car has the earlier IAVC built in to the throttle body http://www.blatchat.com/t.asp?id=225650 regards Mark

Does anyone have any idea if the bolt pattern and end of the crank is the same on a zetec out of an automatic focus as the manual focus engine. A better way of putting it is "is there a zetec specifically for automatics?"

What is the ride like?

The heat gun is just to help with working the decal not to bake the panel just a bit of light heat, a hairdryer type amount. The bloke who sold the decals said that and it worked. I didn't seperate any of the side decal, that way it will be straight.

I did this recently and all the above is good advice. I would add that you want quite a lot of soapy mixture so that the decal slides easily. Use a scalpel to cut the backing where the nose badge and heater vent recesses are. This allows you to place the centre stripe nice and flat. Use a heat gun on low as you squeegee. You will tell that you have done it right as when you peel the backing off the decal stays stuck to the panel. I did mine taking my time and have no air bubbles and the decals are arrow straight. Play with the side decal a bit sticking it on with masking tape to get an idea of what looks good.

Thanks Oily I'll measure them. The engine has covered 37000 miles so hopefully I can use the intermediates.

Thanks I'll get 1 ordered up

Can anyone tell me if there is supposed to be an o ring on the oil pickup pipe as there is a groove. regards Mark

Thanks Oily. So..the crank legend reads BAAA and the rods all read 6 so by my reckoning I need 1 blue and blue bearing pair and three blue and yellow bearing pairs. That means i'm a bit stuffed for AS16 types as the yellows are no longer available. So get a set of mahle one size fits all, or is there another choice? regards Mark

Does anyone know whether the mahle motorsport bearings that are available are all the vp2 type or are there other types of mahle (1 size fits all) bearing. Regards Mark

Hi Roger, what are you looking for? Regards Mark

Just to back track on the pistons (I'm a bit late to the party). Back in my xflow days a good budget way was to use Lotus twincam pistons with the crown machined down by about .050" to give you a combustion chamber. The burn is a bit dirty on tickover as there is no squish but it's not a problem. Gives you a nice light piston capable of plenty of revs and power.

Looking for a ported vvc head maybe from someone who is an upgrader and has got bored and gone duratec

OK trying to fit the decal kit and i've got a couple of questions. 1 centre stripes- I've cut the decal in half and cleaned/wet the panel, the positions are marked up with low tack tape and I peel the backing off and slide the decal into position. I smooth it down and go to pull the decal "fronting" off and it tries to pull the decal off the panel so I peel off and re position the decal and smooth over. done the nosecone and looks nice but is this correct or is there a better technique. The "fronting is a double layer in places down the edge and so I can't do the final line up with the "fronting" on as I can't see through to the decal 2 side stipes- if I do the above the Caterham script is going to look s**t so I can't be doing it right what am I doing wrong

Got a stripe kit from 7 speed, bonnet and side stripes. Just been measuring up and i've got a bit of string from the water squirter down through the centre of the nosecone badge. the line appears dead straight and down the middle, however the string passes over the centre of the heater vents in the bonnet but the stripe will be closer to the right set of vents than the left set. I presume that the hand made nature of the car means things will not be perfect, but what are everyone else's like? straight down the centre and perfect or not quite?