Pendennis

Mark, that's what I think

This proves that anyone ordering brake pads should always refer to their AP model number starting CP.....

I thought I had a set of early AP 4 pots, but after doing some research with Dave K of DT I am not convinced. Did Caterham use more than two AP variants. Not sure this helps but mine which are definitely not the younger ones are model CP5100 and they use Ferodo FRP219 pad pattern, hope this helps and good luck

Apologies if this has been mentioned but are tyres E marked yet?

Apart from Avon, where can we buy the ZZS?

Hi Matt, it's not suitable for me, thanks Phil it's over to you

Oh ignore me then

I believe there are three types of rack, high level, low level and mid level. Does this mount off the A frame or trailer bed? If trailer bed does the nose of a Caterham go underneath?

I will be re packing mine this week, I will measure the OD of the shank and let you know.

Do not take this as gospel but I have raced on Avon and Hoosier slicks between 2005 - 2009, Also raced a season on Michelin slicks in 2012. I never balanced a set in my life, neither did many of my competitors as I have never experienced any vibration that made me warrant it. Between 2011 - 2014 I have raced on Kumho or Avon list 1b's and the same rule applies. However, in recent years when I raced at long circuits such as Silverstone GP and Castle Combe I thought it would be beneficial to balance them as I would be hitting over 140mph, but I never experienced any difference. This year I raced at Rockingham and Thruxton which have very fast long straights and both times did not balance my wheel/tyre combo, I never experienced any vibration or ill effect to handling so could not justify its worth. However, I appreciate F1 cars balance theirs*blah* So read into that what you wish*rofl* PS. I won't lose sleep if I don't balance my ZZRs this year

Hi, car is 96. The bolts are metric, HEX end is indeed 16mm spanner and the nut is 13mm, thus the thread is 8mm. I fitted them in 2012.

Oh blimey, thats bad luck

Yep crank looks scrap. However you could get it reground and fit oversize shells but it's probably more economical to get another crank and use standard new shells. Swindon were selling brand new unused standard cranks early last year, give them a ring you may get a pleasant surprise! Did you not notice any unusual engine noise or experience abnormal oil pressure?

I fitted them they fitted okay in mine, suppose you could drill out the hole slightly but first I suggest you try and get Pwerflex to address the issue. There are many variants in the front ends of our cars which Powerflex may not know about but they should address this for you.

The bolts in your chassis are imperial but whatever Powerflex supply they obviously should fit. I have a 96 Imperial chassis with Powerflex bushes. Are you referring to the front bush and the shank of the bolt is too wide for the hole in pick up point?

Yep it's the organic part of the plate which is weak, the material on the paddle is probably metallic which is stronger, I recommend you still retain it as a sprung type though. You won't notice any difference, I didn't. However if the new plate is not sprung it will behave a bit grabby.

Material and construction is more important than the type. So what difference is there? You won't be developing enough torque or shock to warrant it in my opinion. However if you went that route and retained the same construction doubt you'd notice any difference at all.

I have one somewhere amongst all my other clutter, but it's the thick version and has damaged thread

Heat but bottom spherical should easily tap out. I would press out the tapered top guide, if you don't have access to press can you not rig something up with length of threaded rod and oversize socket?

Cheers Simon

Tin duck Dave did you really fit Powerflex bushes in the trailing and radius arms of your de dion?

Simon, are they the same as what you sent me via email?

Hi Simon, not sure if others have same problem but I cannot open the relevant page of your link on my PC and cannot open any of this via my iPad, so none the wiser. Any chance you could email me durabang@sky.com or post on Facebook many thanks Ian

A racer colleague I know fitted them to his 94 car, he also had issues which did get resolved. Our cars have varying front ends so can't be easy for Powerflex, they must be continually learning. I did my 1997 SLR back in 2008/9, so may of been one of the first people to do it. Was a nightmare getting the right parts to be honest, but got there in the end. The product works well, convinced it has improved my handling. If the 903 is a soft polyurethane I will accept that, but it's soft and its theory is no different than the standard CC rubber bush so no real advantage IMO, but the 907 would be a different matter. So Simon what are the correct parts for the radius and watts linkage arms, I would be interested in replacing mine if the product actually exists.

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