Pendennis

Have you tried bleeding the brakes the old fashion way with someone in car and you on calipers? If I remember correctly on your other thread I thought It would probably be the master cylinder. I be interested to know like you what the problem is, but as I said on your other thread I had a similar situation and was convinced it was moisture then after flushing it was still there so thought it must be air, after I checked for air again and any leaks which there were none I had no choice but to change the master cylinder as it couldn't be calipers, my evidence did not justify them at fault. That was my problem, abnormal pedal travel with pressure differential feed back via pedal. Before you go and buy one have you checked for any leaks? Do you have a brake bias valve in the rear line? If yes, I presume you have it fully open at this stage?

Get them as high as possible, I tend to cable tie them up nearly top of damper. Presume you've got something in damper between Pistons?

Have you got the rears up high with bleed nipple highest point in caliper

Hi, yes I didn't imply decrease velocity through the head, just implied if velocity through inlet section too high this may hinder head efficiency thus strangle capability. yep mines a revver but torque and power is remarkably driveable throughout. No doubt I could of got same result with 48's but doubt the same with 45's.

Well said. Quite correct, in theory you lose velocity with bigger bores, although as you know it's relevant to flow rate of head, so what velocity suits 'his' head? And as you know high velocity means higher resistance pressure which may hinder efficiency. I'd of thought in theory your better off with lower air velocity. I presume the butterfly being nearer the head encourages more air turbulence to enter as opposed less being further away, does that encourage more fuel/air mix saturation? My 2L Duratec uses 50mm DTH Jenveys and they are ported, admittadly the head has had some work but FYI it drives as nice as my day to day Ford Focus.

You don't lose low end drive ability with bigger throttle bodies, plates or whatever you want to call it

SOLD

Black OMP race suit, was new in 2014, worn probably dozen times so is unmarked. Fully FIA compliant. Size 58 which I believe is equivalent to a 60 when comparing to Sparco. I am 5'7" and was 83kg and it was too big for me then, probably suit someone who is 5'10" maybe even 6ft. I've now lost 10kg and it looks like a tent on me so I have to get another, thus this is available £135.00 durabang@sky.com Ian (07770666356)

Any good, my email is durabang@sky.com Cheers Ian

Thanks for that I will keep an eye on them, must admit prefer the smaller ones

5-3/4" or 7" in black, not worried if they are scratched etc

I have the McGill ones on my car, they state they are ultra high performance, nothing to report otherwise to be honest John

Yep, I also have the race stat as shown in your second link. Opens at 82c not convinced it closes much after opened though. Not really related but maybe of interest, I suffered over pressurising of coolant circuit during long periods of high rpm (8500) which initially I put down to this wax valve closing causing an increase in pressure that my circuit couldn't cope with, (bypass smaller than flow pipe) so I removed the stat but it made no difference. Now I'm in process of putting it back in circuit and employing an expansion tank. What's this got to do with me I hear you say, nothing really but what it does imply is I am not convinced this stat closes accurately to control the circuit. Could have faulty stat though..

Are you implying this switch https://caterhamparts.co.uk/cooling-fans/38-cooling-fan-switch.html If so I suspect its 82c

I refer to a thermostat switch (2 wire) which should have temperature range on side of brass body. Are you after sender or thermostat? That link is for a sender! A sender is a device (sensor) for measurement of temperature, not a switch so won't control temperature of engine.

If it's the brass two pin type, their temperature range should be written on the side of the brass section

Problem is the fins never are in same orientation and unless they are and at same pitch your creating turbulent air at this point which ultimately means the air won't flow anywhere near as good as it would be designed for 'in free air' Always a compromise and that's why mine is behind in free air with a cool ducted air path merry Xmas

Interesting, there will be arguments whether it should go in front or behind water radiator but suspect CC put it there as it suits their application. Personally I would like it behind the rad. Obviously your engine oil is important but generally the Duratec likes water and oil at 90*C

When you think about it the water radiator was always hindered by the oil cooler before it was blanked off. Is that standard Caterham setup?

No your be fine, but your temp gauge will tell if you are

Stack oil pressure gauge black 52mm 0-100psi electronic type and sender. New in April 2016, used twice whilst my steering wheel dash got repaired. So not had much use. Gauge - http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/gauges/stack-oil-pressure-gauge-electrical ​Sender - http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/gauge-sender-units/stack-replacement-sensors-for-electrical-gauges ​£45.00 posted

Reduced to £50.00.

£15.00

2nd one sold to Paul

Colvern sold to Neil, new unused one is still available.