Pendennis

The dip headlight and main beam bulb, what's it from?

Yep sounds like dampers are too short as winding the spring to that extent is not necessary

Mike I have a 96 chassis with middle DD mount, you need 438mm eye to eye with a 9" spring, closed measurement should not be an issue but just in case you need to know I have 4.25" travel before bump stop

Try it first, after all your using car for Road so may not be far out, if your track based then probably well worth spending the money. Regarding your droop comment I've not noticed any difference between level or below droop so I run mine as low as possible ignoring level wishbones

Blimey engine hangs well down doesn't it.. go and try it would be my advice, you should be aware camber and toe of wheels should be correct leaning to an aggressive manner to feel any benefit by making adjustments such as the ones you've undertaken

You have compressed the springs by 60mm? what is ride height from underside chassis to ground at rear of front wheel?

Tom, you haven't done bad so I wouldn't change anything else without trying it on the road. But why you aiming for 15mm rake?

Red Caterham Luke harness 3" shoulder 2" lap or Willans black passenger 3" shoulder and lap. Would consider swapping if it suits

Cheers but they are not same construction. The Luke Caterham spec one is easy, Williams is not obvious but appears to me as if you need to drill out the pin pawl and replace once spun 180 degrees, just hoped someone could tell me an easier way?

Anyone worked out how to change hand of harness, thus left to right and vice versa?

Your need two corner weight scales sitting on the floor raise one higher than the other to replicate difference in height between bum and heels of feet. Sit on higher one with feet resting on other, simulate seating position and record weight on both scales. Put weight in position of car as you recorded it, most of bum weight would obviously sit in base of seat but you can stagger it simulating your back. Won't be spot on to the nearest ounce but you won't be far away

Doesn't mean it's right for Tom does it? Caterham would of done R&R and have found a figure that enables them to send their cars out the factory, that is all, but this generic figure which maybe okay for some will not be for others. If you think about it a Caterham could seat one or two occupants, driver or passenger could be 60kg - 100kg, could be 6'3" or 5'4 tall, car could carry a spare wheel, the engine and gearbox variant could differ let alone many variants in the chassis's that have been sent out. Obviously driver weight and height is common variant as well as chassis variants but there are quite a few significant factors that result in differing weight position within the chassis, hence my comments. In my experience which is only track based, there is no rule of thumb it's trial and error to find a happy medium, but sometimes we often drop or raise the rear due to other factors. A road car is a different subject I do appreciate that, so a generic setting maybe acceptable, I just find it difficult to accept that's all. My current car has 17mm of rake, my previous car which had an identical engine, gearbox, diff, spring rates, ARB's and ancillaries didn't require any rake whatsoever, dead flat level car. The only difference between the two cars was age of chassis, so work that out

Cheers John, my gauge is same as that on PH and not indictive of the CC wiring diagram. Thanks all for your help

Blimey Jonathan, where did you find that. I have a wiring diagram but as that old PH discussion mentions, the diagram doesn't label terminals on gauge. I was pretty sure how it should be wired but wanted confirmation. Cheers for that your a star

I think sender is 1, ignition is 2 and earth is 3. Could anyone confirm please

Good evening, struggling to quickly work this out so does anyone know where the ignition live, earth and sender wire connects to on the back of the gauge terminals 1, 2 & 3?

I totally disagree sorry, cannot see any reason why you would waste your time doing static setting with an unladen car then either put weight in or sit in it, very strange approach. Also, the way I put 75kg of ballast in drivers compartment is identical to a 75kg driver sitting in the car. Agree, just plonking 75kg bags of cement in seat isn't ideal I agree but that is NOT what I do. I also find it hard to understand how you could specify the rake must be this or that without checking it's weight across axles, or knowing C.O.G, roll axis etc.. Stipulating generic settings is not something I would do!

Blimey Elie, what is the point doing any static settings without any weight in the car? The whole point is to get a stable near as possible level car when laden

The rear ARB if left connected could prevent the suspension from releasing thus not allowing the chassis to settle in it's unladen or laden state. This also applies to the front ARB although the ball/socket isn't as bad as the drop links situated on the rear. However, I always loosen the front ARB bolts so its free to move. All bolts through all bushes front and rear should also be undone allowing the bushes be free in relation to pick up points on chassis, this is same scenario as the ARB being free as if left tight they will aid the spring on the damper and not allow you to achieve the best result. So, put weight of driver in seat, undo all bush bolts, as well as front and rear ARBs then do your adjustments and when finished re connect (adjust) rear ARB to suit and resecure all bush bolts, all before removing the drivers weight from the seat. There are many theories regarding set up, personally I adopt the above before setting rake and ride height. Then with aid of spirit levels I get the front chassis across crucifix completely level whilst getting the rear bulkhead completely level, thus the car is level with equal ride height across rear as well the equal height on the front. I then put car on scales and trim accordingly but note it is generally near to an equal set up just be doing this procedure, so much so that putting her on scales is nearly always a waste of time.

The same way I do when I buy a new one, ha ha

Yes regulations. Obviously material degrades after time although that is affected by temperature, moisture, UV etc.. If he has worn the helmet a handful of times I would be amazed if it NFG. FYI, I have to replace helmets due to regulation revisions, each helmet which no longer conforms is fine. The date and regulation changes is there to maintain safety yes, but it also there to generate turnover within the motorsport industry.

I use 3" shoulder straps, they are fine but 2" would sit nicer IMHO. Helmet will be fine, just because it is old does not mean its NFG. If you have intention of competing in near future, then that is a different matter altogether. When buying hans make sure you measure your neck and decide on angle 20 or 30 degree, mine was 20

Yes the harness must be below shoulder height as I mentioned, cutting the alloy back panel doesn't really comply with MSA as driving compartment needs to be separate thus sealed from fuel area. I spaced harness points down below top rail so below shoulder height, it's all doable just depends on your needs really

Let me find you the hans information complies to FIA for you. It shows dimensions and angles etc.. if your not competing in MSA you can use any harness or helmet although I would use 2" shoulder straps, I can show you picture of my bracket if you message me your email I send that over

Let me find you the hans information complies to FIA for you. It shows dimensions and angles etc.. if your not competing in MSA you can use any harness or helmet although I would use 2" shoulder straps, I can show you picture of my bracket if you message me your email I send that over