Gingerbread Man

What type of bulb is this?

On the way back from Le Mans last year I met a man in a service station who had a Seven (could have well been a Robin Hood) with a tow hook. I wonder if that is the same guy!?

Are the LED side lights, reverse, fog etc... lights brighter?

Just down the road from me, good luck with the sale.

bump...

I'm trying to connect a shift light to my car that runs the Rover VVC engine, ECU 2 I believe (1999). I did previously connect the shift light to the wires going into the back of my tacho, Live, Earth and Signal. I found that I had problems with the signal wire not having the oomph to share it's signal with the tacho and the shift light. Due to this, my tacho didn't read correctly while using it in conjunction with the shift light. A quick email to the manufactures of the shift light suggested that I connected the signal wire to the coil where the signal strength would be stronger. This is where I'm stuck. Having a look at the coil today, I have two plugs going to it, one with three wires and the other with 2 wires. Plug one: Pin 1 Brown & Pink Pin 2 Brown & Pink Pin 3 Grey & White Plug two: Pin 1 Brown & Pink Pin 2 N/A Pin 3 Grey & White Which wire to I have to tee the signal into? It's been suggested that it's normally an outside pin and it's also the negative, but I don't have a multimeter with me today. I was wondering if anyone else has had to do similar and could tell me what wire they have tee'd into.

If for any reason the aeroscreen sale falls through, I'd be interested.

I'm using a Freelander brake light switch....I think.

I've been told to take the tacho reading straight from the coil. On a VVC K Series, how would I go about this? Signed clueless.

What time was this? I went down on Saturday, but I didn't see anyone pulled over. Get home okay in the end I hope?

On the way back from Le Mans in the hot hot heat, I noticed that the heater was giving out hot air even though the heater was meant to be shut off. While stopped at a service station, I popped off the bonnet to find that the valve wasn't shut 100%. After making it fully shut by hand, hot air didn't come out of the heater. So is it 100% closed?

Hi. I've got the standard ECU2 that came with the VVC. I could set the shift light to come on at a low value, but I'd rather have the tacho working and no shift light.

It's wired up the same as everyone has said. I get the impression that the signal being sent to the tacho isn't strong enough to run two devices off it. I haven't tried just running the shift light with no tacho, as I want the tacho present to make sure it's reading right before I rev the engine to a red line that the shift light doesn't present. Booom.

I've noticed on your 'how to' that you have a digital tacho and quite a few wires heading into the back of it. I have four wires which form into a large plug before connecting to the tacho. For as far as I can see, the wires pair off from the main wire run and then go straight to the tacho, no resistors or anything.

I've tapped it into the wires running into the back of the tacho.

Now I have a problem which DRE and I are trying to solve, but I wondered if anyone here was having a similar problem, or an idea to fix it. Due to having problems, I tried again with the shift light connected and again with it disconnected. So I disconnected the shift light and went for a drive. The rev counter worked for the full range, from tick over to the red line. I then pulled over and connected the shift light into play. The rev counter no longer use the full range. Under hard acceleration, the rev counter will work up to about 3000 RPM and then back down (erratic) the revs even though the car is still accelerating. If I then back off the accelerator, the rev counter quickly flicks up to the (I guess) actual revs the car is doing. Any ideas chaps, I read earlier about maybe the need for a signal isolator but I'm not quite sure what this involves.

I don't think you could even get a spare fleck of paint off it.

Why does the PH advert not mentioned the cracked rear wing?

Right, for those of you who are still thinking of how to mount yours, here is mine. I thought about running the cable to one of the heated screen grommets, but soon gave up on the idea due to it being a cleaner install if I drilled straight through the scuttle behind the unit. I just plan to sell the shift light with the car if I ever sell it! Right so here are two pictures of it mounted. Picture one. Picture two. It's mounted roughly central to the rev count vertically wise. I found the steering wheel got in the way view wise, and it's also in a good line of sight position. I drilled from underneath to make sure I didn't end up drilling into the tubular bar that the dash and tonneau cover poppers fix to. I also found that there was more room drilling from underneath (with the rev counter removed for visibility), as I thought the windscreen would have to be removed to allow drill access from the top otherwise. I found the grommet out of an old electronic device that had had it's day.

Does the K Series VVC (1999 so EU2) run wasted spark as standard or shall I just set the settings to 4 cylinder mode. Edited by - Gingerbread Man on 22 Jun 2010 12:43:09

I've checked out the wires needed, now just need to find a small grommet before drilling the hole.

I replaced mine just two weeks ago due to cracking. Do you want come details of this?

Yellow 7 around these parts?

I run a milk bottle top too!

If my 7 didn't have a cracked De Dion, I'd pop up. What does a volt meter across the battery tell you?