john g

Take a look at this current thread "I had a fire in one of my carbs"

Tim, I had a weber flooding problem the other week. I adjusted balance, float levels, check valve etc. I also had a blat mail from a chap in Germany with this solution ... it worked for me The following is Klaus's e-mail to me. Klaus Koenig, Munich, Germany --------------------------------------------- There is another source for the leaking of Weber DCOEs. This was pointed out to my by Keith, a Weber tuning guru that I met on the Innovate Motorsport forum. I repeat this with my own words, but the credits are with Keith... The DCOE has a design flaw, because there is no seal between the auxillary venturi and the carb housing. The auxilary venturi carrys the venturi that is responsible for delivering fuel from the main jet. The auxilary venturi is simly slotted into the carb body and held in place by the grub screw on the underside of the carb. Now, the fuel from the main jet is routed from a hole in the carb body into a matching channel in the auxilary venturi, but there is no seal to prevent fuel leackage. The seal is supposed to be made by tightening the grub screw, but you can't overdo it, because otherwise the aux venturi will be damaged. What will happen now, if the seal in not perfect, is that on open throttle, when the main circuit is active, fuel will leak out of there and collect in the gap between the aux venturi and the body. Eventually it will dribble out of there and drop on you battery. This will only happen when the main circuit is active, therefore on idle, no fuel will drip out. To cure this, you can try to tighten the grub screw a little bit, or your can try to put some Hylomar between the aux venturi and the carb body. But be careful not to smear any sealant into the main circuit channel.

Hi MikeK, bought one today, just the job

I've been trying for months to buy a trunion oil gun, James Whitings have none available. Best bet is a good quality grease gun. If anyone has a trunion oil gun for sale please blatmail me.

On my x/flow, if you jack up the car a little - wheels still on the ground - and slide the battery towards the pedal box, there is just enough room to drop the battery through the chassis and slide it under the car.

I fitted some 1144's the other week (without the supplied shims). Bed them in as the 'instructions' suggest and you will have no problems. I found the difference amazing.

Can't get my head round this 'string' method. How do you know each corner of the box is 90' (degrees). How about two long lengths of extruded aluminium angle, position one on each rim (or tyre) & measure the distance just in front of the wheel & a little further out, if you see what I mean. (Assumimg the ali is dead straight).

Thanks for your help chaps. I'll give the fuel regulator a go. John

Cheers Neil

I have petrol dripping from the twin 40’s onto the battery . I have balanced the pair and adjusted the mixture. I have checked & cleaned the needle valves. Thinking about it, should there be a gasket between the valve & the cover, I think I had a ‘fat’ metal washer? The floats (black plastic) are approx 12mm from the inside of the cover when touching the needle valve. Is this correct, the info I have says 8.5mm but this is for brass floats. Could this be my problem? Also there is chamber in the main body of the carb (in the corner of the casting, if you see what I mean) that seems to vent outwards towards the air filter. On one carb this had a small amount of petrol in it. Could this be my problem – how did the petrol get in there? Any help gratefully received.

Has anyone used one - to check toe in / out. it's a plate you position on the ground and drive over. Are they any good 🤔

Cheers Nick.

I have a live axle, 1995 xflow with ‘flat’ doors. Are theses doors the same size & shape as the doors you are selling i.e. are they a direct replacement & would the hood fit ok? Edited by - john g on 24 Mar 2006 21:20:01

So who's going.

Mark, what are you going to polish now 🤔 x/f red/ali

Mark, I balanced my carbs a few weeks ago - never done it before - with the help of information from blatchatters & a carb balancer all went OK. The link 'strongy' provided is also a good source of info.

Dave, It was included in the cost of the pads (+ vat). Therefore if you collect them yourself from D/T would they be cheaper 🤔

Thought the Pinto engine was to high / tall to fit into a 7 🤔 Unless you cut a big hole in the engine cover.

Hi Dave, Got them from Demon Tweeks. All in, inc vat & p&p £44.70. Ordered Monday, received Wednesday. Looks like CageyH has found the best place. I tried motor factors local to me but each said that they were now unavailable. Part No. MINMGB533M1144 as Richard stated. By the way ... D/T would not entertain any discount!

Just purchased a set for standard calipers (live axle) and included with the pads are 4 self-adhesive plastic - I think - shims. Are they shims 🤔 i.e. do they fit between the piston / caliper & pad 🤔

Cheers Steve, will give it a go. (Have seen the info thanks).

Steve, how do I do that? I have a carb balancer - which screws are the balancing screws?

Started the engine (1600x/f) of the 7 to warm the oil, everything OK. Dropped the oil & changed the filter. Started the car & one carburettor sounded ‘flat’. Let the engine warm up & still the carburettor sounded flat. Turned the idling mixture adjusting screws on the problem carburettor & there was no change. (I screwed them all the way in & even screwed them all the way out). Removed & cleaned the idling jets & the main jets. Replaced them and everything was OK again but when I adjusted the idling mixture screws the engine note didn’t change? (It does on the other carb). (I haven’t tried it on the road yet). Anyone any ideas?

Will give it a try Martyn, thanks.

I’ve been trying for weeks to buy an oil gun, for lubricating the trunions. Went to an auto jumble today but alas no oil guns. Is anyone (around the Wigan area), willing to lend me a gun so I can complete the cars winter service.