cj247

I'm in Cranleigh, Surrey & have most of the tools necessary for a build, having built my car in 2011. Including torque wrench & 41mm socket for the rear hubs, axle stands etc. Borrowed the engine hoist from a friend though.

I have the 5" lights & simply upgraded with the 120% brighter halogen bulbs from Halfords. Four years later they are still going strong & totally transformed night driving. A cost effective upgrade which maintains the original character of the car.

Ordering parts & making sure I have the necessary tools for a cambelt replacement. Do you have to remove the crankshaft pulley or can you slip the belt over it? If it has to come off then how do you stop the engine turning? Internet videos suggest some bolt on device for Rover cars that engages with the starter ring on the fly wheel. Not sure if this will work on a 7 or where you can get these? Realise you need the device to lock the camshaft pulleys though.

Full suspension 26" mountain bike bought new in 2013 from Edinburgh Cycles it has been well maintained & priced to sell at £650 Very well spec'd bike with good reviews http://www.mbr.co.uk/reviews/full-suspension-bikes/tested-2012-specialized-camber-expert-2000 Frame: M5 hydroformed tubing, tapered HT, PF30 BB, Command Post routing, 142mm dropouts, sealed cartridge bearing pivots, replaceable derailleur hanger, bolt-on cable guides, 120mm travel Rear Shock: Custom Fox Triad II, custom on-the-fly 3-position compression switch 1) Lock out 2) Open 3) ProPedal, rebound adj., 200×51mm Fork: RockShox Reba RL, tapered alloy steerer, LO and reb adj., standard drop-outs, 120mm travel Front Derailleur: SRAM X7, 10-speed, S3 direct mount for DMD, top-pull Rear Derailleur: Shimano Deore XT Shadow M772, 9-speed, SGS long cage Number of Gears: 18 Shifters: Shimano SLX M660, 10-speed, trigger Chainset: Custom SRAM S-1250, 10-speed XC Trail double, PF30 spindle, S: 170mm, Others: 175mm Bottom Bracket: SRAM PF30, OS press-in bearing, sealed cartridge Cassette: SRAM PG-1030, 10-speed, 11-36t Chain: KMC X-10, 10-speed, with reusable Missing Link, nickel plates Pedals: Resin Test Ride Pedals Front Brake: Custom Avid Elixir 5 SL, hydraulic disc, alloy backed organic pad, HS-1 rotor S/M:180mm, Others: 200mm Rear Brake: Custom Avid Elixir 5 SL, hydraulic disc, alloy backed organic pad, HS-1 rotor S/M:160mm, Others: 180mm Brake Levers: Avid Elixir 5 hydraulic Handlebars: Specialized All-Mountain low-rise, 6061 butted alloy, 720mm wide, 8 degrees backsweep, 6 degrees upsweep, 31.8mm Stem: Specialized XC, 3D forged alloy, 4-bolt, 31.8mm clamp, adjustable rise, S: 60mm, M: 75, L:90, XL:105mm Headset: 1-1/8" upper and lower, Campy-style cartridge bearings for integrated alloy HT Rims: Custom DT Swiss 445D, alloy disc, double-wall, pin joint, eyelets, 24mm, 28/32h Front Hub: Specialized Hi Lo disc, laser-etched logo, OS 28 end caps, sealed cartridge bearing, RWS, 28h Rear Hub: Specialized Hi Lo 142+ disc, laser-etched logo, double-sealed cartridge bearing, 12mm thru-axle, 32h Spokes: Stainless, 1.8mm (15g) Front Tyre: Specialized Butcher Control aramid bead, 26×2.3″ Rear Tyre: Specialized Ground Control, 60 TPI, 2Bliss ready aramid bead, 26×2.3″ Saddle: Body Geometry Henge Comp, hollow Cr-Mo rails, 143mm width Seatpost: 6061 alloy, 2-bolt micro adjust, setback head, 30.9mm, S/M:350mm

Any interest in a Sevens only track session for this event on the 20th June? The club isn't having a formal stand this year but if we could get 20 participants the cost for a 15 minute session would be similar to a public session ie. about £30. This is one of my favourite tracks, always a good friendly atmosphere.

I have Toyo TR1 Rs on the 7 having used them on an Impreza. Good balance between grip (both dry & wet) & wear

Recently fitted Toyo Proxie T1 Rs to my 7 & dry grip is infinitely better than ZV3s, although you can still get the back out if you try. Handling & steering feel is good. Yet to try in the wet but from previous experience with these tyres on a Subaru Impreza they weren't bad. At £67 a corner they were good value as well.

Does the gearbox come with a bell housing? If so, for which engine?

I still have the original hoist bracket that my 1.6 K series came with which bolts onto the engine but Loughborough is a bit far unless anyone is heading that way. You're welcome to borrow it.

Thanks Dave. Drove past Cranleigh Tyre & Exhaust on Saturday & was considering them as an option so good to get a recommendation.

Time is fast approaching for my cars first MOT. Any 7 friendly recommended MOT stations near Cranleigh, Surrey?

I think it was something like this http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/501-Long-LED-Extreme-Power-2W-360-degree.html but it was a while ago I fitted them. Go for the 360 long ones so the bulb clears the holder & sticks out into the lamp bowl for maximum light output

LED rear side/stop lights are as good as standard tungsten bulbs as long as you get the ones with LEDs all round & at the end. You can also get good LED sidelamp bulbs for the front which show up well as daylight running lights & avoid the need to use the headlights. I've been running this combination for 2 yrs. http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/LED-Car-Bulbs-c-1337/ have a good selection

I did Brands last year on ZV3's & there's still enough grip to have fun. You won't even be able to tell you've done a track day with these tyres!

Easy job to change the hoses with an EZ Bleed kit connected to a tyre. I used this to expel the old brake fluid from the systems by undoing each wheel bleed nipple in turn until no more fluid comes out. Remove & replaces hoses as appropriate but pay careful attention not to get any dirt on any of the connectors otherwise you may get a leak. Tighten all nipples & fill EZ Bleed with fresh brake fluid & connect to master cylinder, & clear tube to bleed nipple for each wheel in turn starting from the offside rear, nearside rear, nearside front, & lastly offside front. Bleed each (by undoing a qtr of a turn) until no air bubbles are seen in plastic tube (a clear jam jar makes it easy to see & catch the brake fluid) & tighten nipple. You may need to repeat the process several times but don't let the brake fluid level drop too low in the EZ Bleed or you'll just re-introduce air into the system. Whole process should take no longer than half an hour after which teh brake pedal should be firm.

Agreed, flexible rear hoses make sense & I replaced mine this winter. So, if you're using stainless braided hoses with an inner liner then you don't need to replace them as per the Caterham service guidelines-is this correct?

Thanks all for the guidance. Looks like Nilfisk is the one to go for but I won't be clay detailing as I'm looking to save time not spend more time cleaning cars 😬

Tempted to but a pressure washer to reduce the amount of time I spend cleaning cars but am concerned about the impact on paintwork/polish/semi permanent paint protection finishes etc. Anyone got any pointers to research on this or can recommend a particular model? Keeping wheels clear of brake dust is a full time occupation!

I've never been able to get my thermostat housing to stop leaking despite changing the O ring 3 times. Any tips?

I've booked

What's the memory size on the iPhone 5?

What's the memory size on the iPhone 5?

Are the club planning on attending & having a stand next year. Particularly enjoyed the 7 only track session.

Thanks. Just tested the circuit & cleaned up the contacts in the garage flurescents & now they are working. Cloakroom light works OK now dried out & new bulb installed but my concern is that the RCB didn't trip in the first place. If you do a manual test on the RCB it is OK

The flat roof over my garage & downstairs cloakroom recently leaked & the bulb in the light fitting in the cloakroom started flickering even when the light was turned off. On investigation I found the fitting full of water but the RCB on the newly installed consumer panel had not tripped. The roof is now fixed & everything dried out but I'm nervous to switch the circuit back on as I would have expected the RCB to trip & am wondering if the installation is faulty. Is this how consumer panel RCBs would be expected to behave? Around the same time the garage lights which are on the same circuit stopped working & still won't but cloakroom light appears to work fine.