cj247

Decided to fit a mechanical oil pressure gauge & ordered the bits from Merlin Motorsport; very helpful but I've got the wrong adapter to replace the old electrical sender. Car is a 1.6K series built in 2011 & old sender looks like it might be a metric thread (quite a course pitch) but I don't have verniers to measure it. Looking at earlier posts on this subject it seems it might be M12 x 1.5. Before I order yet another incorrect adapter are all K series sender threads the same? I hesitate because the existing sender electrical sender has M10 12 stamped on it & it could be either M10 or M12.

Set of four OEM Subaru Impreza WRX STI alloy wheels from a 2008 car. All wheels are in good condition but with some minor scratches & three are fitted with 235x45 R17 Vredestein Wintrak Extreme winter tyres with 4-5mm of tread. They do not have any centre caps though. Unfortunately a puncture wrote the fourth tyre off in the spring & then I sold the car. Can provide photos if required Price £200 Edited by - CJ247 on 13 Sep 2013 21:12:41

Same here on my 1.6

Thanks for all the suggestions. It is definitely leaking from where the thermostat housing pushes into the waterpump, bolt is done up, bore in waterpump is not scratched & no obvious reason why it should leak, new hoses with all fastenings done up tight. Have fitted slightly oversized nitrile O ring using silicone lubricant. In short everything suggested. I guess the next step, which is a bit radical given the engine has only done 4,500 miles, is to replace the waterpump housing but before I do that I'll try another O ring (that will be 5).

Ever since new my K series has leaked coolant from where the thermostat housing fits into the water pump housing. O rings have been changed multiple times, thermostat housing changed & even sourced non Rover O ring as the OEM part is a loose fit. If I drive the car more than once a week the leak is minimal on the garage floor & it doesn't leak when using the car. Any suggestions, other than drive the car more. Tempted to use silicone plumbing sealant as next step but wary of this getting into the engine & blocking coolant ways.

I have the following kitchen appliances for sale from the 15th April Hotpoint BS11 built in fan oven in brown Bosch SKT5102GB worktop dishwasher Hotpoint RL63P fridge All items are in working order & available for collection only from Cranleigh near Guildford in return for a donation to Nuke the Luke

I know it's not 7 related but I have to transport my mountain bike & the time has come to reshod my 2008 Impreza STi with new tyres. Any recommendations for road use? Currently running Toyo Proxy T1 Rs (been happy with them & much better tahn original Dunlop Sport SP1s) but Conti Sport Contact 5s appear to get good reviews.

Now sold

Hi Chaz, you have mail

Complete Wii set up consisting of: Wii Wii Fitness Board 2 x Wii controllers with protective bumpers 2 x Nanchuck controllers Games - Need for Speed Nitro - FIFA 10 - Wii Fit Plus - Mario Kart - Mario Galaxy - Off Road - Cars 2 - Blazing Angels Squadrons Of WWII - Indianna Jones Original Adventure - Star Wars The Complete Saga - Wii Play - Wii Sports Sadly no games featuring a 7! Price £150 Prefer to sell as complete package, can ship at additional cost for postage

You can use Evo-Stik (or another contact adhesive) but I used self adhesive Velcro tape. That way I can easily remove the carpet to dry in the event of a soaking.

If it was 5.30ish then it might have been me on my way back from work to negotiate a series of road closures around Guildford/Goldalming due to olympic torch. Good to get out for a blast after so much rain!

Thanks for all the comments & advice. As I'm not after a fire breathing track special I've contacted Mark at Z&F tuning to ascertain what the limits are to his remapping of the standard MEMs3 ECU before I decide which route to take. However, at £230 a time it may well be cheaper to go for an Emerald if you're going to do more than 2 remaps as you can change the maps yourself.

Hi Oily, How low mileage are these cams? Any issues with putting secondhand cams in an almost new engine?

Considering upgrading my 1.6 120 bhp K series engine & wondering what gives the best bang for your buck for fast road/light track use. Engine has standard exhaust but lightened/balanced flywheel (came as standard on my car). Sean at Z&F tuning can remap the MEMs3 ECU for about £200 which gives about a 5% power increase & improved drivability for the standard engine. Caterham offer a Supersport upgrade for £1,000 & Powertrain have something similar (SS135) for £556 (which include a ECU remap). Alternatively Powertrain have a Pipercam & vernier kit at £629 but I assume you'd also need to do something to the ECU? Then there's a DVA KA01 kit with cams & verniers for £565 (do you need to upgrade the ECU to get the advertised 135bhp?). Question is, given I don't plan on changing the exhaust yet which option gives the best upgrade path if I want to upgrade further in future?

Have new 1.6 K series but don't seem to be able to stop the thermostat housing leaking when car is cold (puddle on garage floor but coolant remains above minimum). Have removed & replaced O ring with genuine Rover spare, sprayed with silicon spray, & re-assembled but it still leaks. It wasn't a tight fit when I put it back together but I couldn't feel any rough or damaged areas in the hole in the engine housing. Before I try again with a new thermostat housing I thought I ask if anyone has any tips? For example, do I wrap a bit of PTFE tape in the O ring groove on the thermostat housing to get the O ring to stand proud, or is there a danger that this could come loose & block the waterways? Car is less than a year old & only done 1300 miles

It's not the CRB as the rattle disappears when you fully depress the clutch pedal.

Gearbox oil is correct, alignment is fine. Now I'm not expecting it to be super quiet given the age of the design, lack of sound proofing etc but if I can leave the car running on the drive & still hear the geabox rattling away inside the house that suggests something's not quite right Anybody with a std 5 speed live near Guildford/Horsham so I can compare? Tried increasing the idle & it helps marginally. How about Slick 50 additive?

Excuse my ignorance but what's TADTS? How do you increase the tickover, apart from adjusting the throttle cable, as aren't adjsutments limited for pollution control.

I have a new 1.6K series with standard 5 speed gearbox with 600 miles on the clock. Ever since first start up the gearbox has been very rattly at tickover in neutral but if you press the clutch the noise disappears. Caterham agreed at the first service that it's noisy & are considering a warranty replacement but as I built the car myself I'd have to remove the gearbox or pay them about £650 to do so. Looking at the various posts it seems that this is a common problem, but probabbly nothing to worry about & all part of the Caterham experience, so I'm wondering if I just live with it & replace the box/recon it if it fails or should I get it replaced under warranty with all the inconvenience or cost of having to remove the engine & gearbox? It was a bugger to get it in so I'm not in a hurry to do this! What about using a gearbox additive like Slick 50? Have to say that the amount of gearbox/diff & general transmission noise is high & with modern manufacturing methods Caterham should have got this under better control. Seems like they rely heavily on the fact that the cars are owned & driven by enthusiasts who'll put up with a lot more than Mr Average. Despite this I'm enjoying my 7