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Drakman

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Everything posted by Drakman

  1. Tell the powder coaters where you don't want the coatings and they will block the orifices, usually with paper/cardboard i believe.
  2. If your preference is an ATB have a look at the Wavedtrac diff, the "wave" makes it lock. Just a thought.
  3. Drakman

    Dampers SV

    Is your SV a wide track, if so do the new shocks have the wide track extension part number 75555 on the top?
  4. Spring washers are there to help prevent the bolt backing out. The "cut" in the opening of the washer allows water to get past and into the cylindrical section of the upright or what ever a bolt passes through, which can cause a rusty mess and make the bolt extraction harder. A flat washer and a bit of low strength loctite should hopefully seal it. Thats my 2 cents, did i spend it wisely?
  5. I think the idea of angling the diff was back when cars ran leaf springs, under hard acceleration the springs would try to "S" bend. These days the springs are coil and the trailing arms hold everything in place. I believe the correct set up is to make absolutely sure that the diff pinion gear shaft is dead parallel with the gearbox output shaft to avoid the tail shaft vibration issues. I just went through the replace the Titan LSD game as well, I was told that the Wavetrac, (torsen ATB but with lock up because of the wave design) and the O.S.Giken, (plated diff) were not currently available for the BMW 168 diff housing. I don't think a Quaife ATB would be any good for me so i opted for a Drexler. The drexler has adjustable ramps and can be set to suit the individual car. RRT had it built by drexler to their specifications for my car, I ordered it last September and it just arrived yesterday. Happy days, I have the car on the hoist now with the old diff waiting to come out. Cheers Dave
  6. Thanks Simon. I appreciate your answer. Cheers
  7. Hi timb, I am based in Qld at the moment but Victorian born and bred. I am in a few car clubs and most offer club rego options. Disclaimer, i pay full rego because i don't want the added hassle of club rego restrictions if and when they start enforcing them. I believe all you need to do is join an appropriately authorised club and the club gives the car a once over and they will advise you on how to go about club registering the car. I do know that the club rego is conditional on a few things one of which is you have to remain a member of the club that you got your club rego through. I'm not sure how they do it but there are a few Victorian Club registered cars running around up here on the Sunshine coast. Cheers Dave
  8. My Titan LSD was RS when i bought the car, 2014 roadsport, at 13,000 KLM's. I went for longevity of maintenance and purchased a Drexler diff from Ollie at RRT, long wait to get it though. I have been told that Wavetrac make their ATB to suit the BMW 168 now. The wavetrac sounds like a great option for my use. I wouldn't bother with the Quaife ATB in a Caterham though. Just my opinion. O.S. Giken make a great looking LSD but I don't think they are available to suit the BMW 168 diff.
  9. No I didn't know the de dion tube deflects, that must be movement in the bushes? Best i just don't look i think.
  10. On the subject of rear ARB's I just fitted one to my car, a 2014 SV, and I noticed that the bar once mounted had 6 mm of lateral play, the bar moves sideways 6 mm fairly easily is this right? I made up a couple of nylon spacers 3 mm thick and pushed them in behind the rubber ARB bushes. Now i have no lateral movement, have I done the right thing? Dave
  11. Hello all, I am looking to fit a set of 620 s coilovers to my 2014 Roadsport 175. Would a set of wide track shock absorbers from a S3 fit onto a wide track SV car? I imagine they would be the same but i thought i had better check first. Cheers Dave
  12. Hi all, I have been looking on the Caterham online parts site for front ARB's to suit SV wide track cars from what I can see the only ARB listed is the std 5/8 bar 50F002A. Do they make the 18 mm front ARB to suit a wide track SV car? Cheers Dave
  13. Drakman

    Wavetrac LSD

    Hi PGM, Who was it that can supply a diff for the BMW 168 diff now? Too late for me, my new diff is about 2 weeks away apparently. Cheers Dave
  14. Drakman

    Wavetrac LSD

    The Wavetrac ATB looks great to me, the way the "wave" locks it up makes it a first choice for a road car for my own use but I have a BMW diff in my Caterham and wavetrac don't make a centre to suit, yet. I wouldn't consider the Quaife ATB though. I also looked at the O.S. Giken diff centre and I would have gone with that had there been one available to suit the BMW, apparently they have made them but none are available now. My Titan diff centre has no preload (broken Belleville springs) and the oil was black, from the carbon plates disintegrating, it is very quite gear/bearing noise wise but does clunk a bit. After talking to Ollie at RRT I went with the German Drexler diff mostly because it sounds like the most bullet proof of the options I have. The Drexler had to be built for me to Ollie's spec's and i am still waiting for it to arrive out here in Australia when i get it if anyone is interested i'll post my observations/opinions. Cheers Dave
  15. Hi Ralph, What year is your car? 75526AW sounds like it might be close for the fronts. 75531A might be the rear, assuming your car is De Dion rear and post 2003. If you want to part with your current M1 spec shocks and springs i am looking for a set. Cheers Dave
  16. Hi Guys and Girls, I am having a Haltech Elite 1500 programmable ECU fitted to my 2014 Duratech Roadsport 175 Caterham to replace the locked Lotus ECU. The business doing the install tell me they have to "piggyback" the original lotus ECU to make it read the instruments but they can't get the water temp gauge to work. Their answer is to replace the Caterham temp gauge with a Haltech digital temp/AFR gauge. Now I can wear this so far, I would prefer not to have the piggyback thing and I would like to keep all the original gauges but it is what it is. Now they tell me that the original locked, piggy backed, Lotus ECU is running the instruments and it can't find the engine sensors because the Haltech unit is now doing that which means the engine check light is on all the time. Surely this can't be an acceptable thing, is there an answer to this issue? Has anyone here had any experience with this sort of thing. Cheers Dave
  17. Hello Guys and Girls, I am looking for a set of front M1 spec dampers and springs, Caterham reference number 74501AW. Must be in very good nick. I believe these came with the 250 lbs springs. I also need a rear ARB to suit a metric chassis SV, De Dion axle. If anyone has a set they are not needing anymore let me know. Cheers
  18. Drakman

    420r engine

    Hi mic, Thank you for that info, I seem to recall reading that they weigh 3.9 kg is that the standard across the range weight then, apart from the 620 and Sadev ones you mentioned. Cheers Dave
  19. Drakman

    420r engine

    I read some where that all Duratech engines fitted to Caterhams have a lighter flywheel fitted is that correct. I assume the race type Caterhams have a much lighter version though. Does anyone know the actual weights of flywheels fitted for comparison?
  20. Hello again, Here are some photos of the ECU I want to find a replacement for. If there is no simple plug and play ECU available it shouldn't matter what brand of ECU I get, should it? The Haltech is a common ECU here in Australia or is there an ECU better suited to the Caterham Duratech engine? Cheers Dave ​​​​​​​
  21. Wow, thanks Guys, I had no idea what I was getting myself into here. Lots of great info. Jonathan, I will send some photos and hopefully you may have something that shows what i need, thank you. Cheers Dave
  22. Hi Guys and Girls, I have a 2014 Roadsport 175 that has an alloy "lotus" branded ECU. I believe these are a locked unit and can't be adjusted. I am looking to replace the lotus ECU with a Haltech Elite 1500 as a first step in some modifications to the engine. I have to admit I don't know much about the electronic side of the car, I thought I could just unplug the Lotus ECU and plug the new one in, apparently that isn't the case. I have to either rewire the whole dash or cut the plugs off the Lotus ECU and find a "pinout" to rewire the Haltech in it's place. Is this normally what is done or is there an ECU that does just plug and play for the Caterham? Cheers Dave
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