Drakman

Just to clarify wheel rims are measured from outer tyre bead seat to the opposite side bead seat, not from the outside of the rim to outside rim. Just sayin is all.

The ET (offset) should be stamped into the rear of each rim. I figured 108 PCD because of the Caterham spare wheel carrier in the centre rim.

Hello Jenkss, Do you know the ET (offset) of these wheels? Cheers

Thank you gentlemen, found and removed.

Hello everyone, my question for the collective brains trust here is, where is the actual inertia reel part of the seat belt located and how do i get to it to remove it? From my first inspection it appears to be behind the small riveted on panel in the rear wheel well. Do i have to remove this panel to remove it or is there a way to get to it from inside the boot? I am converting my car to Caterham harness belts. Cheers Dave

Hi Hooley, Your speedo looks a lot like my genuine Caterham version, if so this is the manufactures decal on the back of mine. Might be best to contact them for spare parts. Cheers Dave

No, not at all. I think it just had to bed in? after a bit of use it is excellent. The Drexler, set up by Ollie, would be top of my "must have" list on a Caterham now.

I went through the what diff to use scenario nearly 12 months ago now. My Titan LSD had no preload at all after 13,000 klm's it was very quiet though, no gear whine or bearing noise and it would still lock if driven in a spirited manner. I read everything i could find on LSD's available for the Caterham, i was quite impressed by the O.S. Giken differential but none were available for the BMW 168 carrier at that time, they may be available now though. I spoke to the distributor in Italy of all places and he told me they have made them to suit the 168 diff in the past. After a conversation with Ollie at RRT i opted for a Drexler diff centre set up by Ollie to his spec's for a Caterham. My first drive with the Drexler i nearly shite myself, shuddering when doing a 3 point turns, clunking and it seemed like the diff lock up didn't want to release and when it did i was very noticeable. I have 17,000 on the car now and in all honesty i would now insist on a Drexler diff, set up by Ollie, for any future Caterhams i get. The only time i know it's there is when it saves me from my own stupidity going to hard into corners.

Thanks Guys, Yes as 7 wonders says my car is not a 420, it is a 2014 Roadsport 175. I have heard that the Duratec engines supposedly had ARP bolts in the bottom end but i can't confirm that. My engine is what i believe is called a euro4 spec? but that could just be the restrictive exhaust and a different map. L66TEY, thanks for the tip, i will send PowerTorque an email. Cheers Dave

Hello Guys and Girls, I have been trying to find out exactly what build specifications Caterham have for the duratec engines they use. I guess the higher performance engines get quite a bit of bottom end work but no one seems to know exactly what is done to the Ford duratec for the Caterhams. My car and i guess most other duratec Caterhams has a ford factory sticker that states "Special Equipment" Can anyone here de code what that entails? Photo of my engine. Cheers Dave

Hi 7 wonders, Thank you for your advice, i was thinking that 45 mm itb's would produce more torque than the larger 48 mm but i really have no experience with ITB's so i might just go that way now because 48 mm would be better if the power bug bites down the track. It looks like i will go with the cable accelerator as well, cheaper, lighter and simple. Yes i will be keeping the stock bottom end for now so i am limiting engine RPM to 7,500 max which is one of the reasons i chose the D-tec 10 cams. I have been following the valve spring dramas here so i am aware that they could be an issue. I don't think overly heavy valve springs are a good thing though. Does anyone make Titanium valve springs for these engines? Cheers Dave

Hi James, Thank you for your thoughts, i think you are right about the 45 mm vs 48 mm ITB's, the inlet valve is going to be the restriction in the system not so much the ITB's or the porting. A standard inlet valve is 35 mm? my cylinder head is one of the "hi port" designs but i don't think the valve size is any larger. As for the throttle actuation my car is already drive by wire (can't say i am a fan of it though). I don't know much about the ECU's used in modern cars these days. When i had the Haltech fitted i was told i could have it set to swap between 2 maps if i wanted to use E85 fuel as well as 98 petrol. I don't know what else it can be set to do though, i had it fitted for the tunability so i could make some changes to the engine performance. The cable is a simple probably lighter and cheaper option, i might have to explore the cable idea a bit more. Cheers Dave

Hello everyone, I am going through the process of converting my 2014 Caterham Roadsport 175 to Jenvey ITB's. My car is mostly used as a road car however i have made a few upgrades, suspension, Haltech ECU and a R500 exhaust system. I have a set of Kent D-Tec 10 cams that will be going in the engine when i fit the ITB's. The car as standard is Drive By Wire. I have contacted a couple of Jenvey dealers and been given quotes for 48 mm and 45 mm ITB's along with a choice of Electronic throttle actuator (Drive By Wire) or converting to a cable pull accelerator. My questions are 1, what would be better suited to a mostly road car 45 or 48 ITB's. Question 2, what are peoples thoughts on Drive By Wire over cable actuated accelerator? The Electronic Throttle Actuator looks to be a heavy addition on a car that wants me to add lightness. What do you guys in the UK do in this situation, cable or stay with DBW? I will be doing a couple of track days a year and in all honesty the Caterham is not ever going to be a daily drive car. Cheers Dave

The center caps are available from Caterham ref no 77295. 6.75 each. I just bought a set myself.

My 2014 BMW Titan diff has LSD painted on the base of the diff housing and the ratio. If you have a titan, spinning the wheel may not be of any use, my titan i could spin the wheel with the other side on the ground because the diff LSD was cactus.

Hi Jody, I got some Titanium open ended wheel nuts for my 2014 roadsport. Thread is 12 mm x 1.5, 60 degree taper. The Titanium wheel nuts are half the weight of the std steel short Caterham wheel nuts. If you want some look on ebay.com, the US version. I believe the nuts i have are from a Chev Camaro, sorry i don't know the model year. Cheers

Hi Simon, Thank you for the advice, would i also need to have the shocks re valved. My shocks are standard 620r Bilsteins that came std with 350 lbs springs, i was a little concerned dropping down to the 250 lbs fronts and the 215 rears. My 7 is a 2014 Roadsport Duratec 175. with front and rear ARB's and a drexler LSD. if that makes any difference. I figure your input would be very welcome in suspension matters. Cheers Dave

I'm running Avon ZZS's at 18 psi.

Hello Graham, I am currently having my 7 flat floor/corner weighed and wheel alignment done as we speak. 85 mm under the sump sounds low to me but i have been measuring my ride height from the bottom chassis tubes to the ground, 135 front and 150 rear. My car has 13" wheels and has a wet sump so hangs lower than a dry sump, i can see that the lowest part is the sump but i haven't measured it there. Do you know what your ride height, measured from under the chassis tubes to the ground is? Cheers Dave I should add my car has Bilstein 620R shock absorbers now fitted with 250 lbs front springs and 215 lbs rear springs. I found the 350 lbs std 620R springs were a little too harsh over some of the roads here in Australia.

If you want an ATB diff, try these. http://www.wavetrac.net/different/

I would be checking your wheel bearings. If you have 1.5 to 2 mm clearance something is allowing the wheel to move to take up the 1.5 - 2 mm gap. I recently fitted 8 " rears to mine and it has similar clearance to yours but no rubbing. I don't think a stone would mark the steel De Dion tube like that without making a serious mess of the rim. Another consideration with 8" rears is, make sure you tell anyone balancing the wheels not to place stick on wheel weights on the first 2 " of that area of the rim. Cheers

If you want an ATB, i think they are a good choice for a road only car, google "Wavetrac" differentials. Wavetrac are an ATB but they incorporate a wave type plate/washer that when the wheel wants to spin it moves to the high point on the wave and locks the diff. Quaife are not the only makers of ATB differentials. That said in the end i went with a drexler diff center built by RRT. My 2 cents spent. Dave

Have you considered a TIG welder, they are really good and you can weld Aluminum, stainless and steel. They are just like the old oxy acetylene set up to use except the torch is electric. I was taught to use oxy and arc when i did my apprenticeship as a motor mechanic 50 old years ago but this new TIG stuff is much easier to use, no spatter. If you have to go MIG make sure it is a gas one. Cheers Dave

This is the adhesive that CC use and sell, Very expensive from CC though. I bought that exact brand for $25 AUD out here. I had to remove one of my guards and i can tell you it wasn't going to ever fall off on it's own! https://caterhamparts.co.uk/cycle-wings/2333-terostat-power-adhesive-9220.html

Thank you Guys, That is exactly what i wanted. A picture is worth a thousand words in this case. Cheers Dave