GF04RCE

I have now stripped it and learnt a few lessons along the way. There are two standard looking O rings just need to confirm the size. You just have to unscrew the main piston assembly and pull out the piston. You may also need to remove the fluid filler screw to release the pressure, its the one on the back next to the spring. Once you have pulled out the piston the o rings are easy to replace and are clearly deteriorating. I also undid everything else, my advice... dont ballbearings and springs a plenty. I think i have them back together in the right order but wont know until i complete and test. Don't release the big spring on the back, as its lots of fun getting it back together eek.... Anyway as to refurb, it should just be two o rings... What i am not sure of is how much fluid to refill it with and if i will need to refill it with the piston in or out... if you have a view on this it would really help... I will come back with the O ring sizes when i find out...

Hi, Many moons ago there was a great BC bulk buy for Ali trolley jacks. It has been a great jack and served me well, but has started leaking fluid. Has anyone found a suitable service kit to replace the seals etc. to prolong the life of my trusty friend...? or is it 'so long and thanks for all the lifts' ... David M

I have the caged roll bar with the crossed bars..... although I am sure it will be fine I'll send you an email.... Thanks David M

I need an S3 boot cover in reasonable condition to replace my damaged one. I guess £20 but let me know Thanks David M

What can I say.... but 😬 I have a car that starts and now know that i am dropping some volts in my wiring somewhere. A big thanks to Revilla (Andrew) for all his hard work to come up with this fix, even for us in the Extra wire brigade... and also coming up with a solution for voltage drain in the loom with the direct feed. It was great of him to turn up last night to work it through... I also realised its time I bought myself a good set of crimpers and to throw my soldering iron away ..... Big Thanks again, and good luck to all those that make the relay swap..... David M

Hi Revilla, YHM ... happy to be the Guinea Pig.... David M

Well that blows my SV theory, although it didn't make sense anyway..... I might give CC a call this morning just to understand why some cars have it and some don't.... David M

Great News Revilla, look forward to it, any clue as to why some have it and others don't.... Big thanks for your diligence from all us K Clickers

Jonathan..... great clip

Just noticed, from the examples that the SV's don't seem to have the extra wire Extra Wire in 8/8 Me 2003/04 140bhp 1.8 Roadsport EU3 Felixgogo 2003/04 1.6 Roadsport EU3 No wire in 8/8 Mucus72 2003 1.6 Supersport EU3 SV Revilla 2003/04 VVC 1.8 Roadsport 160bhp SV Can't imagine what the difference being an SV would be, but it would be good to get some more examples... Bottom right hand connection of the larger connector into the MFRU relays on top of the ECU. Brown wire with I think a blue stripe.... Also interesting we all seem to have cars of the same age David M

The plot thickens, what is this elusive extra wire, where does it go, what does it do? I am tempted to cut it and see if anything stops working, although my starting is so unpredictable at the moment I am not sure I Would determine anything conclusive.... Might be time to speak to Caterham? David M

There are the Tillet padded seat covers on ebay not sure how comfy they are. I spent some time trying to find some pads to in some GRP Tillett style seats, but found it dufficult to find anything reasonable... Enthused by the Hacking trend, I started looking for sources of other Pads. Canoe pads seem quite interesting as they are gel filled, and could be stuck in place... the search continues...

the.vet, I have been going through the exact same thing with mine... type in Geometry into search and a thread should pop up... The key culprits I have found so far: I had toe out instead of toe in, although I think I am going to set it to zero Tyre pressures were too high, so dropped down to 18psi (15" CR500s) Ride height and front to back rake have had the biggest impact, I guess without enough rake there was too much weight at the back. this has been adjusted and I can start feeling my front wheels again, especially on the bumpy roads around me.. Finally, I am looking at bump steer, and following up with the suggestion of putting a 9-10mm spacer under the steering rack mounts. Also wondering about how old my CR500s are and if they have hardened up over time (might be grabbing at straws on that one) I think this all came about because I didn't adjust anything when I moved back from 13" Rims to 15", either that or its the mystical tinkering elf that creeps into my garage over night and mucks up all my wheel alignments.... anyway some more adjustments this weekend... Good luck, it is really frustrating heading out and finding the car just doesn't handle like it used to/should... David M

You could always go for wire wheels Turrino Wire Wheels I have been meaning to talk to Will and Ken (father-in-law) about weights, since they hold the patent for split rim wire wheels. Means you can use Ali outer with Steel centres. I am wondering if with such a light car if they could make a lightweight special (fewer spokes) for a seven. alot of what they build is for racing and they pretty much can build anything people ask of them...Split Rims are great as it makes it very easy to build different widths of wheel... Because of the unsprung weight advantage ( fuel economy) we were talking about putting a set on my BMW as a test mule. I'll have a chat with Ken at the weekend and get a set of scales out... and see if maybe they can do a seven set for testing....worth a try!! Does anyone have a list of standard weights for the Caterham 13"/15"/16" wheels plus the Mags, without tyres...? David M Edited by - GF04RCE on 16 Aug 2013 07:48:06

all the other wires are as per your example, its just one extra one in 8/8, maybe someone will come along with an idea of what it is, and why my car has it and yours doesn't....

EU3, the only difference seams to be that yours is a VVC, but dont understand why that would utilise an extra wire... David M

Hi, I have done what many before me have done and cleaned out the solenoid, cleaned and changed HT leads etc. in a hope of getting rid of the inconsistent starting non-starting problems. So its time for revilla's Low Flying K-click relay change modification. Problem: 2004 140bhp Roadsport and I seem to have a wire in 8/8 which in the low flying article is show as NC based on Andrews 2003 VVC 160 that the article was based upon. What should I do with this wire? Thanks David

SKC, good thread to start on how much power.... CC have been steadily pushing up the power to weight ratio but for road use and then for track, how far could you go with the chassis and traction of the Seven ( not from a tuning perspective) looking at only BHP. For example i have always had a niggle in the back of my mind about putting a Porsche flat six into the engine bay of a Seven, why, i have no idea, would it be work, I have no idea, Would a Seven powered by Porsche be 😬 oh yes!! but you could be looking at 400+ bhp which the chassis, wheels and aero may never handle.... Anyway will leave you to do the honours of starting it as it was your idea What if you put engine X in car Y is just one of the best general conversations to draw you into a crazy project? David M P.s Sorry to hijack thread...

Ok, I have now been through and checked all the suggestions that came forth but still have no solution to the Geiger Click... My next consideration is the heater unit moving around, but aside from removing it not sure how to test/ fix that one. When you wiggle it, it is making the right kind of sounds (not definitive) but cannot see how it is moving about..... David M

Thanks Ian will take a good look at that....

Geiger counter is a spot on description of what the noise sounds like.....

Richard, need to work all that out, components were whatever was standard in 2003/2004 for a widetrack roadsport on adjustable blistiens.... part of the game will be pulling together a complete profile and then changing measuring things one by one taking into consideration Pauls article regarding the order of things.

Over the last few years my seven has developed noisy wiring... does anyone else have this? I remember originally some noise from the screen washer tubes, but what i have now is excessive and distracting. If anyone has experienced this or has a trick for reducing it i am very interested. The noise is a sharp clicking creaky sound, when going over bumps, headphones seam to be the only cure at the moment..... Thanks David M

So are we saying that all sevens of my era circa 2004 would suffer bump steer, what gets me is that it used to be ok (or seem better) i am guessing that something else has changed but i find it odd that things can change when i have not actually adjusted anything.... Oh i want to remove tyre pressure from the equation, if someone can remind me what the standard psi setting is for 15" CR500's? If anyone has any more diagrams or guides to recommend please do....

Are the new rack mounts from Caterham? Or is it just the spacers £1.80?