Andy135

#21 Tell me more then Tom.

#17, give us a clue then. I don't follow.

#16, 2008 kit, first registered 2012. Metric chassis Sigma Superlight 150. Which version of the bearing would it need? Good point about the hub nut. Not sure I have a socket to fit and my torque wrench is no longer calibrated, but might be worth a quick look just in case.

#14, yes, you and Ian have suggested what I was thinking. Either a collapsing bearing or a worn drive shaft joint, given the vicinity of these components to the apparent origin of the clunk. I suspect I'll need to replace the bearing, then see if that cures the clunk. If not it'll be a drive shaft replacement. While the hub nut is off I'll pull the drive shaft and see what diff is in there. Is there a guide or how-to for bearing replacement? I didn't build the car, so not sure of the relevant steps for a Caterham.

#12, I got under the car again this morning and had my son turn the nearside wheel while I listened again. I noticed that if I held the offside drive shaft to stop it turning whilst the nearside was turned by my son, the clunk stops. I'd be interested in your point of view here as my knowledge of LSD's isn't deep enough to know whether this would also stop the crown wheel turning too? Or does the crown wheel still turn when one drive shaft doesn't? I didn't look to see if the prop was still rotating when the offside drive shaft was stopped, but if it was then would that suggest the crown wheel was turning too? Here's a video of the clunk stopping when the offside drive shaft is prevented from turning. And here's another video demonstrating the sound from underneath and next to the offside wheel hub. While I was underneath I double-checked with a long screwdriver as a stethoscope and used my fingers to feel for the clunk again and it's clear that the sound and vibration is strongest at the offside wheel hub. Nothing on the diff casing or nearside drive shaft.

#7, looks like our posts crossed. Yes, it's a LSD of unknown design. Can feel the clunk strongly at the wheel hub, less strongly at the driveshafts and I don't remember feeling it at the diff casing but per my last post I'll check again.

#4, just checked the disc to flange bolts and they seem fine. Right pigs to get at though. Handbrake cable clear of any rotating components. #5, yes, it could be described as a clunk when up close. Sounds more tick-like when pushing the car by hand. When I had it in the air earlier and with my son turning the wheel with me underneath I couldn't feel anything at all on the nearside drive shaft or diff casing, but felt the tick/clunk very clearly on the offside drive shaft, and clearer still on the offside hub, which suggests it's unrelated to the diff. For what it's worth it's a LSD so potentially rather expensive if it does prove to be diff-related. Might check again later on, paying more attention to the diff casing just to be sure. #6, yes, might need to use a stethoscope tool to confirm what I can feel of the tick/clunk. Further info for what it's worth - there's no noticeable play when wiggling the road wheel with hands at 3 and 9 o'clock. I was checking for play in the bearing but there's no bearing whine that usually comes along with a failing bearing.

Good suggestions Jonathan, but the second video shows the tick present with the wheel off the car, so that rules out a wheel weight. I should have stated in the original post that I also tested the speed sensor theory by winding it away from the reluctor ring - sadly the tick was still present.

After a brief outing this morning I noticed a ticking sound as I wheeled the 7 back into the garage. What could it be? Some observations: It's occurring in the vicinity of the offside rear wheel. The tick is loudest, or only audible, for about 90 degrees of a wheel rotation. The tick can be physically felt at the wheel, hub and driveshaft, and most strongly felt at the hub. There is no discernible play in the propshaft UJ's, so I think this can be ruled out.Here are a couple of videos where you can clearly hear the tick. I have a theory but to avoid leading the witness I'll keep it to myself unless/until others suggest the same potential cause.

#10, or even one of these cheap infra-red thermometer guns would work. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thermometer-Eventek-50%C2%B0C-550%C2%B0C-58%C2%B0F-1022%C2%B0F-Non-Contact/dp/B08T9K8GW7/ref=zg_bs_6286456031_sccl_4/261-0672094-7398460?th=1

#7, the nylon bush didn't fail - this was principally a case of upgradeitis, spurred on by a couple of missed 2nd-3rd changes that got me wondering if a brass bush might help. Time will tell.

For what it's worth I would have snapped yours up if it had been on the market 6 months ago, before I bought my Sigma Superlight 150 for not too much less that what you're currently asking for yours, with similar age, condition and mileage. In my view you're just on the cusp of the "Buy It Now!" price for a Duratec 7. Some might say you should ask for more but we're in a period of the highest inflation in the last 40 years, which will undoubtedly suppress potential buyers' appetite for a big purchase. Patience is definitely a virtue when selling big ticket items like cars, especially in a period of economic uncertainty.

I can only speak for D reg Sierra studs, but yes, they are hammered out and new ones put in in whichever way is most effective/convenient. Note the Ford studs are splined after the threads end, presumably to prevent the studs rotating in the hub and allowing the nuts to work loose from behind.

Possibly it could. However the bush is actually a snug, almost tight, fit in the forks, so introducing further tightness by crimping the bush around the selector shaft would imply the introduction of greater stiffness to the change. As it stands the action of the change felt good once warm, so I'm inclined to reserve judgment for now and run it as is for a few more miles.

Well, after a brief road test this morning here are my observations on the brass saddle bush. 1. The gear change feels a little coarser from cold. I found I needed to be more precise with my placement of the gear lever up and across the gate. This could be due to the bush being brand new - perhaps with a few hundred gear changes under its belt it may loosen up a little. 2. When warm it feels much more smooth. This is probably more to do with the gearbox and gearbox oil rather than the saddle bush itself, but given the more direct feel of the brass over the nylon the brass accentuates the inherent feeling of the box more than the nylon did. 3. This was a short suburban test run involving a run to the petrol station for a top up and a quick stop to grab a coffee. Lots of stop-go traffic and fairly low revs. Need to stretch the legs of the gearbox on a longer, quicker blat before forming a definitive conclusion but early impressions are favourable. The box feels more direct, but requires more precision when cold.

No, I didn't crimp the bush onto the selector shaft. It didn't seem prudent to crimp the sintered brass, fearing a fracture. A test fit of the bush on the shaft showed that it had a snug fit as standard and it can't slip out of alignment once it's correctly in place. In fact, I suspect that the recommendation for crimping is more to do with ease of installation than operation, but if the bush is fitted to the gear lever forks first, instead of being installed on the shaft first, there's no real need for crimping, as all that it would achieve is to hold the bush in position on the shaft more tightly, ready to receive the gear lever forks. Anyway, if I've made an error and have to take it apart again to crimp the ears I'll post up again for rotten tomatoes to be thrown and to help anyone else avoid the curse of thinking he/she knows better than the manufacturer ;-)

Last night I changed the saddle bush in the 6 speed gearbox from the standard nylon to the sintered brass version (here). The gearbox has only done 5k miles, but occasionally I found the change from 2nd to 3rd was easier to miss than it should be, so the quick shift was taken off and given a good clean and the new saddle bush went in at the same time. From this: To this: After a static test I still have all six forward gears plus reverse. Yet to test drive it, but will post back my findings when I do. The nylon bush itself is shaped to clip round the selector shaft - easy to fit but like wrestling with a greased pig to remove. I found that by rotating it 90 degrees I could get the flat of a screwdriver across both legs of the clip and ease it off past the selector shaft. Then a long handled artery clamp was used to gently lift it out. The brass one was fitted onto the forks of the quick shifter before the shifter/bush assembly was lowered onto the selector shaft. If anyone else is thinking of doing the same, I found that the most time consuming part was winding back the white nylon handbrake adjuster knobs in order to remove the tunnel cover - with limited fingertip access it takes longer than it should unless you have access to a ramp.

Hi Martin, What chassis/roll bar combination is the half hood for? Interested if it will fit an S3 with FIA "Caged" roll bar.

+1 to #2. Improve the driver before improving the car.

We were just leaving Podium Place cafe on Saturday when we saw a blue Seven with an orange bonnet stripe pull in. Had a red R on the rear, but couldn't make out if it said 420R or a 310R. Think I've seen this car once before, last autumn, driving through Cold Ash. Local member?

For what it's worth I recently went for 2 bottles of Redline MTL for my 6 speed. Finding the time to take out the old and put in the new is a different matter though

I fitted one of these a few weeks ago. Now, having been able to get the car out for a few blats since fitment, I thought I'd share my thoughts. It's easy to fit, especially if you do as John suggests and take the throttle pedal out of the pedal box. To sand the pedal extension to size I used a bolt to fit the extension into a regular power drill and used it like a lathe to gently sand the insert section until a snug fit was achieved. Took just a few mins. Reassembly was straightforward. Heel & toe-ing is now easier - for me it's just a slight roll of the right foot. It's not yet second nature so I need more practice, but at least the throttle pedal is now in reach without having to think about it so much.

How precise do you need to be? This article quotes all K Series Roadsport models at "around 550kgs". https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/car-reviews/caterham/seven/roadsport-sv-range/

#5, Paul, I don't think I could come close to the cost you must have paid for them including the custom leather pads. Thanks nonetheless.

Sorry to hear you've had trouble with Marker Study. Prior to buying insurance for my Seven for the first time I had heard that they were iffy when it comes to claims, and when A-Plan quoted with Marker Study as the underwriter I turned their quote down on that basis. Interestingly when I spoke to the broker MSM for insurance they stated that they refuse to work with Marker Study. Make of that what you will...