Andy135
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Everything posted by Andy135
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That sounds shocking. Possibly worth naming and shaming the garage(s) in question so that other Berks/Hants members can avoid?
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Pinhole in the tank? Have you checked the seams of the tank for leaks?
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2nd dibs please.
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Seats are identical side to side. Passenger is fixed. Driver has runners. But passengers with runners are also possible. My previous leather seats both had runners.
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Yes, I have both in the garage. £70 the pair?
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#15, so what did they do to the car during those 2 weeks? -
I found the solution... used a screwdriver to prise open the top of the spring then wound the arms of the loop through the spring (think of threading a key on/off a key ring and you'll get the idea). A squirt of WD40 helped to make the spring easier to rotate. This reduced the number of coils separating the loops and extended the reach of the loops enough that I could slide one of them over the exhaust hook. Problem solved and I can re-use the spring.
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#3, that looks like the right sort of spring. I've also just spoken to Raceline and they have some in stock so I've put in an order with them. Next question is how to fit the top one, as on my car at least, the old one is coil-bound yet does not have enough free play to slide over the hooks, so I can't see how to get it off other than by using a destructive method... which begs the question of how to get the new one on. Any tips from those who have done this before?
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Anyone know where I can source a couple of these exhaust collector springs? https://caterhamparts.co.uk/other/3086-spring-exhaust-collector-2-per-car-required.html Of course, they're handily out of stock at Caterham but they surely must be found elsewhere too. All the searching I've done only comes up with springs made of of single wire with hooks at each end, rather than the 3-piece versions in the link above.
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Sold.
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Two leather S type seats with headrests. Both with adjustable runners. These are from my S3 and have covered 5800 miles. Very good condition. Aiming for £900 the pair.
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#4, sadly not. It's on my list of things to do, but as it will involve contortions to get under the dash I've been putting it off.
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Does it happen at a particular RPM? The wiper buzz seems to occur at around 2500rpm. Ask me how I know this....
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Hi Paul, I'm interested in the seats. Message inbound.
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For what it's worth I agree with #4, check all joints for play, then check wishbone/A-frame/diff bolts are tight.
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Any chance of recording the noise and posting up here, assuming it can be done safely? Record a video on your phone and upload to YouTube for us to listen to? You may well get more accurate advice by doing so.
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Thanks. Having read the archives I think I'll save myself some backache and not bother to re-fit it. It's not worked during my ownership and on the basis that you don't miss what you've never had...
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#2, Sigma Superlight 150, left and right indicator telltales on the tacho.
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In an attempt to identify an annoying tizz that occurs at 2500rpm I was feeling around behind the dash for anything rubbing against the back of it when this little chap drops out from the wiring loom, roughly above the transmission tunnel. According to Google he's a 12v buzzer, but I have no idea what his job is. The wiring diagram shows a buzzer in the vicinity of the starter button that could also be connected to the oil pressure switch and the indicators. So is he a combined low oil pressure and turn signal buzzer? Clearly I need to buy a replacement as his legs appear to have broken off, but can anyone send me a picture of their buzzer in situ, so that I know which part of the loom to take apart to re-solder a new one into please?
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#12, maybe use it as an opportunity to switch the hard lines for braided flexis from the T-piece to the calipers? It's something that's on my "watch list" to do.
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A quick update on this. Martin Phipps at Caterham has been very helpful and confirmed that the car was fitted with a Quaife ATB. Given the fact that the car runs and drives well I'm minded to put the ticking sound down to an idiosyncracy of the ATB unit for now and not lose any sleep over it. Or to put it another way, just drive it until whatever is causing the ticking becomes more obvious, if not the ATB.
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#29, Ian there's no noticeable difference between the lateral movement of either shaft. I did notice that both shafts feel mildly easier to move towards each hub, and mildly firmer when moving towards the diff. Don't know if that tells us anything other than the spring pressures for each shaft are similar, therefore unlikely to be one broken? #30, here's another recording, this time made at standing height, and with the shafts in their normal operating positions. Sound a bit like a finger of metal is being put under tension and is twanging back into place.
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#29, this sounds plausible. To my ear it does sound like something vaguely springy. I'll have to get back under there and test the lateral movement of both shafts to see if there's a difference. #30, under the chassis, so yes, the shafts were at full droop.
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#27, that's interesting. Remember how I originally started off describing the sound as ticking, due to the fact that when pushing the car into and out of the garage it's much a much softer tick or click (to my ear at least) than when holding my phone up close to the wheel hub to record those videos.
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#24, thanks John, I'll check with Martin to see what the factory records suggest. If it is a Quaife ATB then what's the inference for the clunking sound? In your post #10 you suggested that this could be normal/expected behaviour from an ATB. Yet the sound and vibration appears to come from the offside hub. I should add that I took the car out for an evening blat last night and it performed faultlessly - certainly nothing untoward from the diff or hub. #25 that's helpful to know Olly. Thank you.
